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I've been waiting to write this story impatiently. Could have done it first thing after the WH Meet, but preferred to keep my reports in chronological order, so apologies for the delay.
The idea of traversing the western ridge of Beinn Fhada first came to us when we visited the summit in winter conditions
in January 2017. Back then, with snow and ice on the ridge, the scrambling route to Sgurr a Choire Ghairbh was far beyond us. But now, on a sunny summer morning, we were confident we could do it. Kevin's back was feeling a bit better so we decided to give it a go!
A few words of warning at the beginning of this report, for those who consider the Sgurr a Choire Ghairbh traverse. I don't want to sound patronizing, God forbid, just to honestly describe what awaits potential adventure seekers
1. The ridge is a bit airy in places, might discourage vertigo sufferers.
2. It's basically a one-way road. The Bad Step in the middle is much easier when tackled in ascent (from east to west). I wouldn't recommend reversing the route.
3. The rock would be VERY slippery when wet and there is one short section on the scrambling without good footholds, where we had to rely on boot friction. So it's a route for dry times only.
On the positive side:
1. If you go there on a good day and see the views, you will not even notice any difficulties, it's so breathtaking!
2. For anybody with some experience in scrambling, this is the BEST way to experience Beinn Fhada, gives the true justice to the mountain and makes you forget all troubles for a while!
OK so after this initial lecture from Panther, time to indulge in proper mountain p**n
I was told in the past that I wasn't made to do big mountain traverses, that certain things are simply beyond my female capabilities. But as the say, sticks and stones... I don't really need to prove anything to other people, just wanted to prove it to myself. After my knee injury in 2016 I lost much confidence in scrambling and it took me time to slowly gain it back. Two months ago, when I successfully hauled my bum over the Ugly Step on Beinn Eighe ridge, I felt back on track. Then on Sunday at the end of the Summer WH Meet, the time has come - Beinn Fhada awaited.
Kevin kept saying that if this route is given as an option on Walkhighlands, it can't be that difficult
We started from Morvich and walked up the path towards Bealach an Sgairne. We had been here before several times, in different conditions, but it's always a nice experience, a grand entry to a fantastic spectacle:
Because it was Sunday and a lovely day from the early hours, we expected to see other people, but to our surprise, we were alone on the mountain. Even better, I could meow as much as I wanted without a worry that I'll scare somebody s***tless
Kevin is so used to my "wows" and happy squeals that he pays no attention at all
Thirsty Panther taking a break by Allt a Choire Chaoil:
Looking up the waterfalls:
2019-07-14 whm kintail 020 by
Ewa Dalziel, on Flickr
The ascent on the main path via Coire an Sgairne is very easy, the path is obvious and avoids all the problems of steepness in a series of zigzags. It took us a while to gain the main plateau, but we didn't rush it. It was early but already, the sun was boiling us alive. Luckily, we were carrying extra water and smeared our skin with sticky sunscreen, to minimize the effect of sunburn. Kevin doesn't mind a but of tanning, but I'm allergic to UV and easily suffer from Ist degree burns. And when up on the hills, so easy to forget yourself!
Panther mesmerized - what a mountain!
2019-07-14 whm kintail 032 by
Ewa Dalziel, on Flickr
Upper Coire an Sgairne - panoramic version:
We emerged on the wide bealach just north of Meall a'Bheallaich, which we had visited before so today we didn't bother. I was excited. For the first time on Beinn Fhada we had views!!!
Sgurr Gaorsaic and the Allbeithe Munros behind:
The best is yet to come... Yet to come... can't wait to explore that rocky ridge in the middle!
But first, let's reach the summit. On the higher ground, the path becomes indistinct, but the slopes were easy enough:
Near the summit, after happily hopping over some boggy ground
A'Ghlas Bheinn in the background:
Kevin noticed that the air was surprisingly clear, no annoying summer haze that spoils so many long-distance photos. The very distant Applecross cliffs were well visible:
The view west to the best part of the traverse - so mouthwatering!
Gleann Gaorsaic and Loch a'Bhealaich:
Ciste Dhubh, A'Chralaig and Mullach Fraoch-choire on the eastern horizon:
Zoom to Torridon giants:
We reached the summit in three hours, I didn't want to push it too hard, thinking about Kevin's still recovering back, but he seemed OK at the moment, enjoying a lengthy photo session by the trig point:
The pointy summit of Sgurr Fhuaran across the glen:
A'Glass-bheinn:
Zoom to Beinn Sgritheall:
My third visit to Beinn Fhada, Lucy's second, Kevin's fourth, but for all of us, the first time we saw the superb views from the summit. What can I say, well worth the wait!
The Sisters of Kintail - panoramic mode:
It's such a nice hill even when done just up and down the path from Coire an Sgairne, but we were eager to leave the summit to tackle the real challenge - Sgurr a Choire Ghairbh! From where we sat, it looked simply stunning - and nerve wrecking!
The Cuillin ridge:
We walked across Plaide Mhor to Meall an Fhuarain Mhoir, which is a Munro Top, not that I care much about Munro tops
After a short hydration break by the small cairn, we continued west, across the narrowing ridge, soon we saw our target scrambling route. And what can I say, we went speechless!
The initial descent from Meall an Fhuarain Mhoir is on a well worn path, a bit eroded but this was the easy part:
2019-07-14 whm kintail 115 by
Ewa Dalziel, on Flickr
Soon the real fun began! We walked over several small tops. The path avoids all scrambling, we didn't necessarily follow it everywhere, of course Panther had to hop over a few boulders and utter some wild meowing sounds
On the ridge:
Looking back to Meall an Fhuarain Mhoir. The rocky outcrop in the middle offers some easy scrambling, can be avoided:
As we continued over countless minor tops, the ridge was getting more interesting, but nothing technical so far, I was actually looking for pockets of scrambling, but it was mostly just ridge walking:
It mostly looks worse than It is and now I understood why this route is suggested in WH description. So far, so good, we encountered no problems whatsoever!
And just as well because it seems there are no bypasses anywhere, unless you're willing to plunge down into Gleann Lichd
2019-07-14 whm kintail 133 by
Ewa Dalziel, on Flickr
Heading towards the middle top, Ceum na h-Aon-choise:
Kevin enjoying his experience on the Western Ridge:
A wider section of the ridge, looking towards Ceum na h-Aon-choise, which turned out to be just another easy top to climb:
Looking back at the eastern half of the ridge - the easy part:
From the middle top, we could now see the Bad Step and it seemed... hmmm... an interesting challenge. Definitely, hands would be needed:
2019-07-14 whm kintail 246 by
Ewa Dalziel, on Flickr
Panther's time to shine!
The descent to Bealach an t-Sealgaire is just steep and no scrambling necessary, but as soon as we stood at the bottom of the Bad Step, I felt the familiar twinge of excitement in my stomach. Yesss! Something scary at last
The photo below shows the line we took to tackle the Bad Step (the red dots). The section marked with a yellow line indicates the most difficult part of the scramble, where there are few good footholds, but the step is negotiable with care.
Panoramic view of the Bad Step:
We put cameras away so they didn't obstruct our moves and tackled the scramble. The bottom section is easy (even a sketchy path can be followed - obviously we picked the most popular line). When we reached the most difficult section, about 2/3 way up, we discovered that footholds were few and far between, we had to maneuver carefully and rely on the friction of our boots to keep going. I counted three awkward moves where I felt the adrenaline rushing into my veins - aaaah. But despite the lack of steps to place your feet on, the Bad Step is not badly exposed. I concentrated on the rock in front of me and trusted my instinct. Kevin went first and I followed. We were above the awkward section in next to no time.
Looking down the Bad Step:
2019-07-14 whm kintail 162 by
Ewa Dalziel, on Flickr
The final meters were much easier, still an all-four experience, but this was just fun. I was so overloaded with adrenaline, that my brain was probably close to a nuclear explosion
The scrambling Panther:
Posing above the Bad Step with Ceum na h-Aon-choise behind:
2019-07-14 whm kintail 166 by
Ewa Dalziel, on Flickr
When I joined Kevin on the top, he said he was seriously worried if I could cope with the difficult section, but I just smiled and pointed my finger at him - How dare you doubt in me!
If you think that after the Bad Step the scrambling experience is over, you're wrong...
...but the remaining pockets of scrambling (mostly down well-worn chimneys) are nothing compare to the earlier experience. Overall, you can make this ridge as easy or as hard as you wish, by tackling more rocky outcrops, but apart from the Bad Step, I'd call everything else very easy.
Sgurr a Choire Ghairbh, not as hard as it looks like:
There are several (five I think) little tops to walk/scramble over and the ridge seems neverending, but for me, the more the merrier
Eventually, tired but still pumped up with adrenaline, we reached the final top, where we sat for good 10 minutes, resting our legs and gazing back at the ridge we just walked:
All that was left now, was the long, knee-jerking descent back to Morvich. I was eager to get down quickly:
The sun was burning us mercilessly when we descended to Beinn Bhuidhe, then followed a very faint path across wet, grassy terrain:
2019-07-14 whm kintail 202 by
Ewa Dalziel, on Flickr
The final descent is overgrown with bracken, nothing surprising in Scotland
2019-07-14 whm kintail 205 by
Ewa Dalziel, on Flickr
Nearly back down, we encountered a deer fence. We couldn't be bothered to look for any gates to the left or right, so we decided to clamber over. I lost my balance and almost fell off it, a silly incident that made my husband chuckle. How come you scaled the Bad Step with such a confidence, then you struggle to climb a silly deer fence?
Looking back at the wonderful Western Ridge of Beinn Fhada:
2019-07-14 whm kintail 208 by
Ewa Dalziel, on Flickr
It took us 8.5 hours to complete the circular route, but we enjoyed every second spent on the ridge, even the scary part
We were overwhelmed by the rough beauty of this less known side of Beinn Fhada and didn't regret we decided to repeat this hill rather than head for something new (and probably boring
). It's days like this one that make the life worth living.
.......................................................
My next story will be a bit more subdued, we will return to Glen Etive to tackle a secretive Corbett. TR to come soon.