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Collies Ledge , Sgurr Alisdair to Sgur Mhic Coinnich
A family holiday in Skye which I was really looking forward to and the first two days were looking superb (weather wise)- how could I resist the pull of my favourite place in the whole wide world – The Black Cuillin??? With family commitments and trying not to lose any brownie points, I set the alarm at 4am, sound in the knowledge that the rest of the family wouldn’t surface till well after 9!! In fact I hoped they wouldn’t know I was gone until at least mid morning!!;) Which would then give me time to get back soon after as if I hadn’t been away at all !! (Please read last bit with a sprinkling of sarcasm
).
After arriving at our home for the week, I set about getting my gear ready and I was ready for the off early on the Monday morning….
4am and porridge and coffee were consumed and then a drive into the sunrise with some of the most majestic scenery in the world. To add to my delight the first thing I saw as I left the car was an otter crossing the garden , this was followed by the skies glowing pink, then orange as the sun rose before the hour hand hit 5am.
sunrise broadford by
Scotland's Mountains, on Flickr
Red Cuillin by
Scotland's Mountains, on Flickr
I was finding it hard not to stop at every layby to take photos, but I eventually got round and down to a quiet (a rarity in the summer) Glen Brittle for about 05.30am. The Cuillin were inviting me up and I had a right good spring in my step. My original objective was a quick blast up The Great Stone Chute an back again to allow me to get back mid morning, however if things were looking good (they were!) I wanted to visit Collies Ledge again and then head up Sgurr Mhic Coinnich. The last time I had been on these peaks was on a traverse of the ridge 14 years previously and I have vivid memories of Collies Ledge which I wanted to relive today
The path up to Coire Lagan is well made and the Cuillin dominate the view, with Rum and Eigg taking second place;) Arriving in Coire Lagan the lovely lochan awaited and I stopped for a while on the slab of rock that sits on its crest and admired the views back down to the beach .
Coire Lagan by
Scotland's Mountains, on Flickr
However, I was only delaying the inevitable, that being the brutish ascent that was awaiting me. The Great Stone Chute is easily identified and just about takes you to the top of Sgurr Alasdair, I was expecting this ascent to be brutal, and it didn’t disappoint! Foot placements were key and I must admit the walking poles really helped (I was doubtful if they would’ve helped). After a good old slog, I eventually reached the Bealach.
Great Stone Chute by
Scotland's Mountains, on Flickr
The sun was starting to light up Coire Lagan behind me which gave great views, but as I crested the bealach the panorama of the southern Cuillin with the mainland mountains as a back drop was spectacular! What a sight. It was around 07.30ish now and after gawking at the views I had the short scramble to the top of Sgurr Alasdair (involved a short balancey section!). It was fun though and soon I was perched on the highest point in Skye with the ridge stretching out before me !
Cuillin Ridge by
Scotland's Mountains, on Flickr
Southern Cuillin by
Scotland's Mountains, on Flickr
I’d like to say I had the place to myself but before long I spotted a group of three climbers coming over from Sgurr Dubh Mor. It was amazing and I sat on the summit for about 30 minutes before moving on – the climbers I had seen hadn’t arrived by the time I left the summit but they would soon catch me up.
Descending back to the bealach and I decided that I would descend down the Great Stone Chute and traverse across the face of Sgurr Thearlaich to gain access to Collies Ledge. When we did the traverse, 14 year ago, we had come over Surr Thearaich to get to Collies Ledge but this involved some grade 3 scrambling, down the face and being on my lonesome, I decided on this slightly easier route today.
Once about a third down the Chute I found a slight path heading off north and traversing the rocky face. The poles were put away as to get to the Bealach Thearlaich involved some easy (grade 1) scrambling. I found a gully leading to the bealach and scrambled up. At this point I could hear voices very close and eventually spotted the three climbers descending Sgurr Thearaich. They were very close to me and I expected them to appear at the bealach at the same time I arrived but when arrived I couldn’t see them although I could still hear them. Next was the highlight of the hike – Collies Ledge. To ascend it from the bealach you follow the polished rock round to the right and a couple of scrambling moves up see you at the start of the airy traverse.
From this point , Collies Ledge didn’t disappoint! The airy traverse is a sheer joy. Nothing technically demanding but the exposure to your left is immense. At points I had both hands on the rock to my right with gaping drops looming below me, but saying that if you are ok with heights this is a few hundred metres to enjoy – absolutely stunning
I eventually reached the end of the traverse and soon the going was vertical again. At this point the three climbers had caught me up and I let them pass as it turned out they were doing the ridge traverse. They were moving well and at speed – hope they made it safely to the end of the ridge
COLLIES LEDGE by
Scotland's Mountains, on Flickr
COLLIES LEDGE by
Scotland's Mountains, on Flickr
Once you reach the crest of Sgurr Mhic Coinnichs ridge there is scrambling all the way to the summit. At points the exposure is almost greater than when on Collies Ledge as the drops are now on both sides. A head for heights is a definite requirement here! However I was soon on the summit and the chaps had passed and were quickly descending – heading for the Inn Pinn and Sgurr Dearg. Me on the other hand , well I was in no rush and I enjoyed another 45 minutes on this airy perch, enjoying the views and solitude. It was now about 9 am.
Black Cuillin by
Scotland's Mountains, on Flickr
More filming and photos were taken and now I had to descend. I knew that more scrambling was required as I descended the same route I had just ascended. Beyond this however, more down climbing and scrambling moves are required before reaching the flat area above the An Stac Screes. After a wee bit of route finding on the descent (there are lots of ways down through the large boulders – some easier than others!) I eventually reached the flat area and sat and had a third breakfast before getting the poles out again for the scree descent.
Having done my research I knew I had to find the correct line for the descent, which wasn’t too bad as the weather was clear, I had noted this point on the way down from Sgurr Mhic Coinnich. The top of the descent is steep and loose and I was grateful for having poles, but once on the actually scree run, the going was slow but nice , his time having gravity on my side (unlike the ascent of The Great Stone Chute!
Before long and I was again in the magnificent amphitheatre of Coire Lagan. I sat down and relaxed. The helmet was replaced with my hat and I soaked in the views in the knowledge that I could just about start to relax! The path out was now the only obstacle and I headed down passing many , many people who were taking a walk on the fine, warm and sunny morning.
An hour after reaching the car (and driving past the busiest locations I’ve seen for years – Fairy Pools and Sligachan!), I eventually got home at lunchtime. A few brownie points were lost but not enough to stop another quick Cuillin blast later in the week (stay tuned!;))
