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Thunderstorm over Cruden Bay

Thunderstorm over Cruden Bay


Postby BlackPanther » Tue Aug 27, 2019 6:30 pm

Route description: Bullers of Buchan to Boddam

Date walked: 18/07/2019

Time taken: 4.5 hours

Distance: 12.5 km

Ascent: 500m

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It was never going to be a perfect day, with forecast for thunderstorms and heavy showers all over Scotland, but as we had some time to spend, we wanted to spend it outdoors. So what should we do if not hillwalking?
Well, we could always go to Cruden Bay :D And when visiting the area it would be a sin to miss New Slains Castle!

We had been here before and explored the ruins and walked the coastal path to the Bullers of Buchan, where we spent some time photographing birds (old report HERE). This time, we decided, after visiting the castle, we would drive the short distance and park at the car park by the Bullers of Buchan. Then we planned to walk to Boddam and back, exploring the cliffs, taking photos and observing the wildlife.

The plan almost worked. We had to turn back just short of Boddam due to a coming storm, but I could still classify this day as a successful. The cliffs in this area are stunningly beautiful and the unsettled weather only added some adrenaline rush to the adventure!

Track_NEW SLAINS 12-5 KM.gpx Open full screen  NB: Walkhighlands is not responsible for the accuracy of gpx files in users posts


But first, New Slains Castle. Might not be the oldest ruin in Aberdeenshire, but my oh my, isn't it impressive. There was a lot of talk about converting it to posh apartments about a decade ago, but to be honest, I don't think it will ever happen, especially that last year New Slains was officially granted listed status. On the other hand, the ruins are much neglected and I wish somebody would take care of this place, clean all the mess inside and make this a proper tourist attraction. I wouldn't even mind paying for a ticket if the castle was brought back to life, even as a ruin.
At the moment, the building is still free and open for visitors at their own risk (it is dangerously close to a high sea cliff, so care should be taken when exploring it). Not much has changed since our previous visit in 2011. It's still the same old Dracula's castle as they call it. I'm not sure if the supposed connection to Bram Stoker is true, but looking at the ruin from the outside it is easy to imagine Count Dracula skulking around at night time :wink:
The ruin as seen from the east:
2019-07-18 new slains 004.JPG

The plan of this building is so complicated that one might easily get lost here... From the east, we entered through a door in one of many small, round towers:
2019-07-18 new slains 010.JPG

According to "The Castles of Scotland" by Martin Coventry:
"The castle now consists of buildings around the central courtyard, with adjoining ranges. The building was greatly altered in 1664, when a corridor was inserted within the courtyard, and was substantially rebuilt and granite faced in 1836."
2019-07-18 new slains 026.JPG

There is plenty to explore here and many hidden corners, some of the small towers still have staircases inside:
2019-07-18 new slains 030.JPG

I could only imagine how grand this place could be as a proper tourist attraction. Such a shame it is left to rot :( not to mention definitely non-medieval rubbish scattered inside :think:
Nevertheless, still impressive...
2019-07-18 new slains 042.JPG

A few more snaps of New Slains - we spent over an hour lurking around and as weather was nice at the moment, we took advantage of the good light for photos.
2019-07-18 new slains 414.JPG

2019-07-18 new slains 064.JPG

2019-07-18 new slains 072.JPG

Inside the main tower, which is possibly the oldest part of the structure. Again, quoting "The Castles of Scotland":
"The castle incorporates part of the basement of the 16th century tower house of Bowness"
2019-07-18 new slains 096.JPG

Hard to say which part of the basement is the old bit, the cellars under the big tower are partially flooded and impossible to explore, but there are hidden corners here where a ghost (or a vampire) could easily hide from daylight :lol:
2019-07-18 new slains 013.JPG

Kevin pretending to be The Prince in the Tower :lol:
2019-07-18 new slains 078.JPG

The ruin from the south:
2019-07-18 new slains 475.JPG

2019-07-18 new slains 117.JPG

Looking south along the coast from the shore near New Slains Castle:
2019-07-18 new slains 478.JPG

I'm glad this building now has the listed status, but how long is it going to survive, is a good question. It's such an iconic place and it would be a real shame if it fell to pieces :(
After a lengthy photo session in the castle, we drove the short distance north to the Bullers of Buchan where we indulged in another long snapping session, this time with the sea birds. No gannets here, sadly (they are my favourite sea birds!) but a lot of kittiwakes, guillemots and cormorants, not to mention seagulls, many of them still on nests and caring for their chicks.
The collapsed sea cave of the Bullers:
2019-07-18 new slains 137.JPG

The first nest I spotted, was a family of cormorants:
2019-07-18 new slains 140.JPG

2019-07-18 new slains 148.JPG

Countless kittiwakes tended to their offspring:
2019-07-18 new slains 142.JPG

2019-07-18 new slains 150.JPG

We moved on to the next inlet, where we spotted a colony of guillemots. At first glance they were all adults but after a few minutes of patient watching, we spied a few chicks, too.
The inlet:
2019-07-18 new slains 175.JPG

Guillemots and cormorants:
2019-07-18 new slains 176.JPG

More guillemots:
2019-07-18 new slains 189.JPG

A guillemot chick guarded by adults:
2019-07-18 new slains 200.JPG

A family dispute:
2019-07-18 new slains 221.JPG

A cormorant taking a swim:
2019-07-18 new slains 216.JPG

We continued slowly on the path along the cliffs, discovering more wonderful views and more picturesque cliffs to photograph with almost every step:
2019-07-18 new slains 500.JPG

The stony beach of North Haven:
2019-07-18 new slains 216.JPG

There were hundreds of sea birds everywhere, but the wildlife was not restricted to the feathery friends only. Many insects buzzed and fluttered about, including several ringlets, one especially was keen to pose for photos:
2019-07-18 new slains 228.JPG

2019-07-18 new slains 234.JPG

Soldier beetle on a flower:
2019-07-18 new slains 237.JPG

Suddenly a moth landed on my hand. I snapped a picture and then carefully placed the wee creature on vegetation. Later I identified it as a burnet. There are several species of burnets and all very similar so I can't say for sure which one exactly it was, but a lovely encounter nevertheless :D
2019-07-18 new slains 520.JPG

This sea stack is called Old Ship:
2019-07-18 new slains 245.JPG

Three guillemots, a cormorant and a herring gull with a juvenile:
2019-07-18 new slains 247.JPG

Looking back south along the cliffs, New Slains Castle now a tiny shape on the horizon to the right:
2019-07-18 new slains 255.JPG

Zoom to New Slains and the windfarms beyond...
2019-07-18 new slains 260.JPG

The next inlet and more birds!
2019-07-18 new slains 262.JPG

Kittiwakes taking care of their family business:
2019-07-18 new slains 265.JPG

The path continues past the old quarries, several of them flooded now, forming interesting, rocky amphitheaters:
2019-07-18 new slains 271.JPG

Sadly as we walked past the quarries, the first drops of rain fell from the sky. We were prepared for showers, so stopped and put on waterproof layers, but a few drops of water were not enough a deterrent to stop us! We continued our cliff explorations, taking photos in breaks between the showers:
2019-07-18 new slains 526.JPG

Cliffs near Long Haven:
2019-07-18 new slains 535.JPG
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BlackPanther
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Re: Thunderstorm over Cruden Bay

Postby BlackPanther » Mon Oct 21, 2019 1:21 pm

More kittiwakes:
2019-07-18 new slains 315.JPG

Buchan Ness Lighthouse in Boddam:
2019-07-18 new slains 281.JPG

Even with passing showers, it was a really enjoyable walk, lots of strangely shaped cliffs to admire and a reasonable path all the way (one word of advice: don't follow the dismantled railway, it's very boggy!). We were hoping for more sunny spells to come after showers and the weather did improve for a short time, when we reached the cliffs of Dundonnie, where we decided it was time to turn back:
2019-07-18 new slains 283.JPG

A natural feature or a man-made rocky dam?
2019-07-18 new slains 556.JPG

Kevin searching for more birds to photograph!
2019-07-18 new slains 558.JPG

The Dunmeath stack in Long Haven:
2019-07-18 new slains 289.JPG

The path crossing one of the inlets:
2019-07-18 new slains 300.JPG

We were completely immersed in our explorations and completely forgot about the weather, only about half way back, I looked around and...ooops, something is coming!
2019-07-18 new slains 567.JPG

There was still time for a few more snaps of the moody cliffs:
2019-07-18 new slains 304.JPG

A curious seagull:
2019-07-18 new slains 318.JPG

I've seen many picturesque rocky shores, but these cliffs are something special... especially when photographed five minutes before the storm!
2019-07-18 new slains 322.JPG

Kevin, hurry up, the apocalypse is coming :wink:
2019-07-18 new slains 579.JPG

Looking back north, with the lighthouse peeking out from around the corner:
2019-07-18 new slains 332.JPG

Brace up, it's coming!
2019-07-18 new slains 344.JPG

Sea stacks, arches and caves, there is enough variety here to satisfy any coastal explorer!
2019-07-18 new slains 355.JPG

We were lucky as we were at the very edge of the big storm, but the cloud was moving towards us quickly, carrying heavy rain:
2019-07-18 new slains 362.JPG

The first drops of rain fell again when we reached the flooded quarries. Kevin managed a few final photos of the charging thunderstorm, before packing away his camera.
The quarry pond reflecting the cloud:
2019-07-18 new slains 374.JPG

It's coming!
2019-07-18 new slains 619.JPG

We walked the final 2km in heavy rain but to be honest, we didn't care as we had such a fantastic day, that a bit of rainfall would not be enough to spoil it. To the contrary, it added to the adventure, resulting in some very interesting, moody shoots of the passing cumulonimbus:
2019-07-18 new slains 390.JPG

When we reached the car park, the rain stopped and we were treated to a final act of the spectacle - a rainbow over Bullers of Buchan:
2019-07-18 new slains 389.JPG

Who could ask for more attractions in one day of cliff walking? :D :D :D
.........................
It is such a lovely area, shame that we live three hours away from this part of Scottish coast, but it's always worth returning to and exploring even more. A perfect spot for bird and insect lovers, not to mention weather watchers :wink:
.........................
My next report will take us back to the mountains. We will visit an iconic Corbett and look for another plane crash site. One more war story worth telling. TR in progress :D

***This TR was affected by Google bug. This is the repaired version :D ***
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BlackPanther
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Posts: 3841
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Joined: Nov 2, 2010
Location: Beauly, Inverness-shire

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