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A few weekends ago I sounded the death knell for summer. I wasn't expecting a resurrection this weekend, or I probably wouldn't have chosen to go down Glen Etive, that place of tourist-madness when the sun shines. But anyway, that's where we ended up, three steep little Corbetts needing taken care of. We camped quite near the north end of the glen, with vague ideas to start on Beinn Mhic Chasaig in the morning, just across the river. Sleep was disturbed by a nocturnal visit from a mouse on the scrounge, who managed to get himself stuck in a paper bag
Friday morning was very chilly, to the point where I had to look out a woolly hat to wear - but only because we were in the deep shadow caused by the sun coming over Creise. It soon warmed up when we entered the world of golden rays. But before that, we had the little matter of getting over the river. Now, the standard route up Mhic Chasaig is not pleasant - at least that's my memory of it - lots of steep sided gully walking. It would be much more pleasant and quick to just get across the River Etive and head up the easy gradient of the western shoulder. If we could get over the River Etive... I'd cast an eye when we tpitched the tent the night before, and it looked alright, shallow with a good number of stones to get across on. However, peering at it this morning I wasn't sure I could plot a path right the way across on stepping stones and I decided that a wade might be more sensible, rather than starting off the weekend with sodden boots. So I get boots and socks off and start over. It's cold, the water, some of the stones are slippy with weed and I managed to bruise my right instep, but I'm over. Allison, on the othert hand, had thought she'd use gaiters with her boots, but on my advice she removes her boots too and with her very first step into the water managed to stub her foot and fall over onto her hip. I'm sitting on the other bank and can see she's in trouble...she looks shaken. After a time she slowly puts her boots and gaiters back on and starts to cross on the rocks, managing it without getting her feet wet. She's in a fair bit of pain.
Just up here - easy!
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Al, on Flickr
After crossing here...
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The rest of the glen in sunshine
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We press on towards the beginning of the shoulder. Once there it is a very easy ascent over shortish grass, much more pleasant than the alternative route. We get to the summit, where Allison takes off her boot and has a look at her toe. Yep, the second smallest toe on her right foot is a different shape from what it used to be...oops! Not much for it but to tape it up to the next toe along, take a painkiller and get boot back on. We've a mountain to descend. She manages well, except for the occasional howl of pain when she turns her toes the wrong way. We even manage the river crossing at the bottom without difficulty.
Another view of Buachaille Etive Mor
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Summit Mhic Chasaig
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The day is absolutely roasting, with little breeze. The time is just past midday. I wonder what we should do - I suspect her foot will be sorer tomorrow, so we might as well just get another hill in today whilst we have the chance - she says she thinks that will be ok, she'll just be a bit slow. The other hills we have are Beinn Trilleachan and Beinn Maol Chaluim - both are a similar length. I decide on Chaluim for no very clear reason and we motor a few miles down the glen.
I have few memories of this hill other than a boggy flat middle section. We use the standard route - indeed it's hard to see what alternative ways up there could be unless you took a steepish wander in from Fionn Gleann. The sun is beating down - already my face feels like a skelpit arse. There's something of a path up the initial section until we reach the middle part I remember, then a steeper pull with Allison taking us up a scrambly section despite her toe until we reach the lengthy back of the hill and arrive at the summit after several days have elapsed
It felt a bit like that. And 907 metres as well - I'd forgotten about that! We turned tail, followed our trail back down, this time avoiding the rocky scramble. We driver back to where we've left the tent, concerned that a mini-campsite will have sprung up around us, but no, just our tent there although there are numerous tents elsewhere along the glen.
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Al, on Flickr
Limping slightly...
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Sgorr na h-Ulaidh
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The long ridge to Maol Chaluim
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Rear of Bidean nam Bian
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The steepness that is Stob Dubh
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It would have been nice to sit out and have our tea, but the lack of wind causes the midges to make their presence felt, so we eat inside and have an early night. I'm unsure if Allison will be able to walk up a hill tomorrow - at least she can wait in the tent if she can't. We get another night time visit from Mr Mouse although it's almost too hot to get any sleep anyway.
Saturday morning is another glorious blue sky day - but with some wind this time. We rise moderately late, Allisonsays her toe is no sorer than it was yesterday and she'll give Trilleachan a go. So we drive the length of the glen, arriving at the wee car park by the Loch which is rammed full of cars and camper vans, plus the odd tent in the car park itself. We just manage to get parked amid kids screaming, people cooking breakfast, dogs yapping, folk chopping firewood - all crammed together. Get away from it all - with everybody else! We don't linger, set off to find the path up Trilleachan, a boggy path through the ferns and up the side of the deer fence until the skirts of the mountain are reached.
Trilleachan
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It is another very hot day and I realise with my first drink from my bladder that I have run out of water - usually I fill up with enough to do 2 typical days, but I drank more than usual yesterday in the heat and now will have a parched climb. We gain height steadily, coming onto the slabs and arriving at the first summit at the head of the slabs. It is very, very windy - we wonder how the big group of folk we saw heading up Ben Starav when we drove by are faring
Down from the slab peak and across to the main summit where we're graced by lovely 360 degree views. We eat our lunch basking in the scenery and buffeted by the wind. Back the way we've come (plus some interesting deviations near the end thanks to yours truly following deer paths).
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Al, on Flickr
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Looking back at the slabs summit
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Lunchtime shadows
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The drive back up Glen Etive is absolutely mental. There are cars parked in lots of the passing places and a seemingly endless line of traffic still coming down the glen. We arrive back at the tent to find that we are still on our lonesome
A nice relaxing afternoon sitting in the sunshine (the strength of the wind means not a single midge
) and just as I'm cooking tea the wind suddenly drops away to nothing - damn! In the evening the wind picks up again. We take a wander along to the sheep transporter (for so it is marked on the map) just along from us. Looks to be broken, with the box in a shoogly state over on the other side of the river. I decide not to try crossing again
We have another night of little sleep, this time due to the wind blasting the tent for the duration - the mousey visitor gives up after only a few minutes in the tent tonight - feel a bit sorry for him.
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Al, on Flickr
Sheep transporter
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Sunday is supposed to be a day of rain but it is still dry when we pack the tent up, with some difficulty in the wind and head off to Glen Orchy, for a wander up Beinn Mhic Monaidh. Last time we did this, we went up from Glen Strae - a steep pull up the west flanks of the hill. I had drawn a route from Glen Orchy this time, totally unaware that the route in Walk Highlands goes from there anyway
After the mental-ness of Glen Etive, Glen Orchy seemed quite deserted in comparison. We parked at the Eas Urchaidh car park and set off across a sturdy bridge onto a top notch track - yay!
I was surprised to see hill access signposted, and we wandered happily through the forest until the rain started and I realised I'd left my waterproof trousers in the car. We wandered on, across a few streams with big stepping stones then up to the edge of the forest, where there's a gate leading out onto the hillside. And a path to follow up it! Amazing. Well the path does seem to disappear by the time you arrive at 500m elevation, but the going is easy over short grass and there are deer trails to follow anyway. We paused for lunch, watching two other walkers coming up, then set off for the summit, which was shrouded in mist.
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Out onto the hillside
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With typical bad timing on our part the mist cleared about 10 minutes after we were at the top. Meanwhile, we had started to walk across to the northern top, a Simm, need I add. A herd of deer filed their way along before us, we had a couple of steep descents then a small rise up to the summit. Good views back to Mhic Monaidh from here, also across to the Starav group. Return was achieved following an old fence line that brought up in time back to the gate into the forest. It was far nicer amble through the trees in dry conditions - autumnal fungi forcing their way through the ground, pillows of soft moss under the trees, a solitary rowan berry amid stones in a stream like a red beady eye.
Northern top
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Mhic Monaidh
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