Beinn a' Ghlo and the sound of silence

[Grisu]

The nice report of nigheandonn Beinn a' Ghlo and the wrong way down remembered me of my walk two years ago and motivated me to document my memories eventually. Of course, I remembered at once vividly the long struggle over the rough and muddy ground on the way out but the most impressive memory I have is that of the sound of silence on my way from Carn Liath to Braigh Coire Chruinn-bhalgain.
It was my first year that I have started walking on my own and after I have managed some munros in different kind of weather during the last days, I was quite confident that I could manage this walk, pretty much encouraged by the very good weatherforecast, and still a bit uneasy about the length and the completely unknown terrain I gave it a try. The description didn't sound too difficult after all.
I parked my car at a parking in Middlebridge which was quite a distance away from the parking of the start mentioned in the description. Before I have decided to park at Middlebridge I have checked the area and passed several gates with places where cars were parking, but I was not sure which one was the right parking and whether I was allowed to park there at all. But this is my usual confusion at the start which seems to become a sort of habit meanwhile, an annoying one, of course. Only on my way back I figured out which one was the right parking. However, I was lucky: Only a few minutes after I have started my walk a young man in a landrover offered me a lift. He was on his way to the Farm at Monzie where he was working as a ranger and he dropped me off at the gate with the sign Shinagag. This was very kind, because it saved me at least around 3 km on this already very hot morning.

On my walk along the track something suddenly caught my attention and I took a picture of which looked like a little hill surrounded by mist. However, it looked a bit odd and it took me a while until I discovered that there was no hill below the mist which looks quite amazing.

dome-shaped mist

Carn Liath with its scar-like path

I found the ascent quite long - as almost everything on this walk and despite the parked cars I have passed I only saw three walkers ahead of me when I have reached the foot of Carn Liath.

Lovely view towards the south during the ascent

Soon it became quite steep so that I was glad when I finally reached the first summit where I met one of the three walkers who took a picture of me adding a decent stone to the already huge cairn

Summit N° 1: Carn Liath

The views from the summit had been great. I got really excited when I figured out the mountains of Glen Coe bringing back nice memories of my first munros two years ago. The man wasn't sure and couldn't confirm, but what else can it be, I wonder?

Great views towards the mountains of Glen Coe

And the sight of the massiv ridge ahead with its gentle curving lines was very impressive.

The ridge

Reassured by some explanation about the direction I had to follow and the fact that the path was clearly visible, I resumed my walk.
After a while I suddenly realized the peculiar silence and I stopped walking for a moment. Only on Dartmoor, I remembered, I have experienced this absolute silence before. I continued walking in a slower pace, listening to this amazing silence and suddenly I had the sensation of being out of time and space and it seemed as if my body has opened up and all my senses have been absorbed by this silence and beyond, tension released with each step and breath - an unforgettable experience.

the sound of silence was very impressive on this part of the walk

Then, three hours from the start I proudly have reached my second munro of the day.

Summit cairn of Braigh Coire Chruinn-bhalgain

Outlook towards Carn nan Garbh, trigpoint and cairn are clearly visible as little spots

Down to the Bealach an Fhiodha

After I have passed the Bealach an Fhiodha I met the two other walkers I have seen on the ascent to Carn Liath, they were coming down from Carn nan Gabhar. Apart from these three walkers I have seen nobody else so far, so when I reached the last summit I was very surprised to see other walkers around there, wondering where they have come from out of the sudden. But still it was not too busy, so that I was undisturbed on the broad and stoney summit.

Trigpoint of Carn nan Garbh with view towards the cairn

managed!

Loch Loch

Glen Tillt and the Cairngorms

When I started the descent I was glad to see some people obviously heading down as well.
I was a bit worried about the way out because the description was not very clear to me. So I clinged to the map and kept an eye on the people in front of me but I was not able to catch up with them and from time to time I lost them out of sight.

Following some walkers descending towards the Bealach an Fhiodha

The looong way out - I don't understand how I could have missed the path to the right

The way back was really rough and oh, sooo MUDDY!!!

I struggled after this long walking day and it was not easy to find a proper place to cross Allt Bealach an Fhiodha without risking to slide and fall. All the time I saw some walkers on the far side of the burn, wondering were they have managed to cross it. Only now, after I have reread the description and compared it with the line on the map, I notice what has confused me: I have kept to the left at the spring of Allt Bealach an Fhiodha in order to follow the line on the map ; so I struggled along on the north side. However, I managed the crossing eventually.

The crossing of Allt Beallach an Fhiodha

Challenging crossing of Allt Coire na Saobhaidh

The very last challenge and the line of a propper path ahead - rescued!

Happily reliefed to be back on the track after the last challenging crossing of Allt Coire na Saobhaidh, I enjoyed the rest of the walk in the late afternoon sun, taking some more pictures, only wishing that I would have parked my car at the right parking after this looong but very nice day.

Beinn a'Ghlo from the track after the path has turned to the right

peacful scenery

Last goodbye to the mountain

https://www.strava.com/activities/1080132873/embed/8d4e632d29a1424e5b46b12e4cd58b8776ef3f22

[katyhills]

Lovely report - pity you missed the parking, but at least you had good weather for coming out on that path!
It's quite daunting sometimes, walking by yourself -but once you get used to it, it can be so much more satisfying

Some really good photos too - the views are lovely on a clear day from those hills

[nigheandonn]

Definitely Glencoe - Rannoch Moor means there's no high ground in between, and there's a really good view from the Glencoe hills of Schiehallion like a sentinel at the far end.

A lovely day - your Cairngorm views look even better than mine. I'm glad you found the right way down, but oh that mud, just when you think the worst is over!

[Grisu]

It's quite daunting sometimes, walking by yourself -but once you get used to it, it can be so much more satisfying

Thanx katyhills - you are right, the more practice and experience I have the less the daunting moments are and I do enjoy walking on my own most of the time but I don't mind good company, only too when it becomes too chatty it is racking my nervs

[Grisu]

Definitely Glencoe - Rannoch Moor means there's no high ground in between, and there's a really good view from the Glencoe hills of Schiehallion like a sentinel at the far end.

A lovely day - your Cairngorm views look even better than mine. I'm glad you found the right way down, but oh that mud, just when you think the worst is over!

Thank you for the confirmation and the appreciation

[aaquater]

The bog fields under both Carns make Beinn a' Ghlo seem less appealing than what it looks like on the map, don't they? At least the ridge walk and the views from it are amazing, at least on a fine day like yours!

[rockhopper]

Nice day for it. The switchback ridge is always impressive once you're up there. Long walk back though even without the added distance to your car. Thanks

Identifying hills - this link may help ?
http://www.udeuschle.selfhost.pro/panoramas/makepanoramas_en.htm

[Grisu]

The bog fields under both Carns make Beinn a' Ghlo seem less appealing than what it looks like on the map, don't they? At least the ridge walk and the views from it are amazing, at least on a fine day like yours!

Yes, you are right, the ridge walk was worth all the inconveniences and I am very happy that didn't follow my concerns and dispiriting information in the description

Nice day for it. The switchback ridge is always impressive once you're up there. Long walk back though even without the added distance to your car. Thanks

Identifying hills - this link may help ?
http://www.udeuschle.selfhost.pro/panoramas/makepanoramas_en.htm

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Thanks a lot, rockhopper! A few days ago I was looking for some information how to figure out the surrounding views and found a different link for panoramas in one of the forums. But this one is very helpful and really smart!! That will keep me busy for a while and add some fun to the preparations of my next summer holiday great, cheers!

[past my sell by date]

Nice report and lovely photos: I did this group in the late 1980's and I don't remember any tracks at all . Same for all munros I imagine - glad to have finished. In another 30 years I guess the Corbetts will be similarly afflicted - but I shall be long gone

[dav2930]

Smashing report of a grand walk. Great photos. I enjoyed these Beinn a' Ghlo Munros when I did them back in 2009 on a wintry day in March. Came down the ridge of Airgiod Bheinn and I remember the path out seemed long and tortuous; but a great day.