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For many on WH a few days in Fort William would mean a hike up Ben Nevis, a round in the Mamores, or an adventure in Glen Coe, but my trip with my wife Cathie was for some much needed relaxation, giving us a short break from our grandparenting duties (much loved, but ever so tiring
) and with perhaps a few, low level, gentle walks thrown in. During the break we would also celebrate our 39th wedding anniversary. In 1980 we had had a two day honeymoon in Fort William before returning to work on our new flat. It was all we could afford! We returned often and on our 20th anniversary we climbed Ben Nevis. (I know how to show a woman a good time
) We were only very occasional walkers and really it was just something to do to celebrate the day.
In the years since, without going into any detail, Cathie has had several serious health issues, one of which means she is no longer as steady on her feet as she would like, and certainly hasn't the stamina of yesteryear, so walks like from Neptunes Staircase at Banavie down to Corpach Station and back, or from the Fort William town centre to Old Inverlochy Castle, down to the Nevis visitor centre, were just fine.
I have to admit though, I longed for a walk with just a little bit of ascent, and have always been intrigued by the small hill with the mast that stands behind Fort William blocking views of the big ben. I knew from WH there was a circular walk round the hill and much to my surprise on our 39th anniversary, Cathie agreed to give it a go. It wouldn't be as grand as Ben Nevis, but it would be something to celebrate the day. We wouldn't attempt to get to the summit, which requires taking an up and down path off the main trail at the back of the hill, but it would still be a decent walk.
We set off from the Cruachan Hotel, walked through the town centre and on reaching the leisure centre, cut through the back and began a series of zig-zags that immediately gave us some height before levelling off.
- View from behind the Leisure Centre
Cathie's progress was slow but steady. We had plenty of time
. The path undulates it's way round the base of the hill before, much to Cathie's dismay, it loses all the previously gained height as it dips down to the Braveheart Carpark.
We continued on the path which runs above, and parallel to, the Glen Nevis road and eventually came to a turn off for a path called the Peat Track. This was the bit I was a little nervous about, not for myself, but for Cathie. I knew from WH's description that although relatively short, that this was the hardest, steepest part of the walk. The track winds left and right upwards through a wooded area and very quickly Cathie began to struggle. I got a bit concerned and was worried that my selfish desire to do a little hillwalking had forced her to take on something that she wasn't fit for. Or worse still something that would harm her. I frequently told her we should turn round and descend, but she repeatedly refused. Very slowly we made our way up, Cathie cursing me for "making" her go on this walk, I hadn't told her it would be this steep, why hadn't I just treated her to a spa day etc,etc. I told her if and when we escaped the wooded area most of the hard work would be done and eventually I said I would jump ahead to find out how much more hard work was still to be done. Every step I took upwards made me feel more guilty for imposing this walk on Cathie. I broke out of the woods and reached a gate beyond which the ground rose more gently and to the right the mast on the summit could be seen. I returned back down the path to find Cathie who was now at a point where going down would be no more beneficial than continuing upwards, and together we made it slowly back up to the gate.
After a drinks break we continued down the track where the views were now opening out especially Ben Nevis, which typically, despite it being a decent day, had it's head in the clouds.
- View of Ben Nevis with summit cover.
Also nice views down Glen Nevis with Stob Ban prominent.
- Glen Nevis.
There was only a handful of people to be seen and walking here, taking in the views, it was hard to believe we were only just outside an urban area.
When we got to the junction where an up and back track cuts back and heads towards the summit, Cathie really surprised me by suggesting we head on up and go for the top and after a couple of "are you sure"s that's where we headed. Our progress was pretty slow, but who cares
.
- Signpost at the Junction.
- Ben Nevis from summit track.
The path rises steadily before taking a dip and then has a final steep section to the summit and mast.
- Cathie making her way to the summit.
- Almost there.
We made it
. Over the last couple of years I have done some hillwalking, but I was as happy to be on top of this modest little hill as any of the bigger ones, and super proud of Cathie for pushing herself to reach the summit. She did struggle but refused to give up. As I said, many years ago she had done the Ben, and around that time, Ben Lomond, Ben Vorlich(Loch Lomond) and Beinn Ime and a few other smaller hills, but to my mind, the passage of time and knowing what she has been through in the intermittent years, made this summit by far the greater achievement.
Cathie
.
Along with the previously mentioned views, there were now great views over the town and Lochs Linnhe and Eil and the hills beyond. It was well worth the effort.
- Loch Linnhe from the summit.
- Loch Linnhe becomes Loch Eil.
- Stob Ban.
- Cathie and Loch Linnhe.
- Cathie at the summit mast.
We headed back down the track, regained the main path and began the long, slow descent that brought us eventually back through housing and then down to the A82, from where it was just a short walk back to the hotel. 19 years ago to the day, a couple we had been talking to in the hotel the night before we did Ben Nevis had insisted on sharing a bottle of bubbly with us to celebrate our anniversary and climb, but this time we made do with a couple of pints at the front of the hotel
.
This is a great little walk and I would recommend it to anyone looking for a walk but in the area, but not wanting to tackle any of the biggies.