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Three years ago yesterday I did this walk in the Cromdale hills. No idea why I didn't write it up as it was a great day; but it's good that I didn't as the process of remembering it is therapy to a hill starved soul!
We left the car in the parking area with recycling bins on the west side of the A95 at Cromdale and walked back along the road towards the Haughs Hotel where we turned left. We passed some houses and continued for just over 1km, until we reached a track to the right signed for Lethendry Castle. According to Walkhighlands, on 16th May 1690 (other sources give the date as two weeks earlier) the castle was the centre of a battle when Jacobite soldiers camped near it were attacked by government forces who had forded the Spey by Cromdale Kirk.
Cromdale Kirk where government forces crossed the Spey
Taken by surprise, the Jacobites put up a fight but the odds were against them. However, a thick fog came down the side of the hills and enveloped the outnumbered Jacobites, meaning the government army soon gave up in its pursuit. According to reports, the Highlanders had 400 men killed and taken prisoner, with the remainder escaping to the hills. This meant we were following their escape route very close to the anniversary of the battle. Didn't know this when we planned the walk!
Companions for the day were Moira and Evelyn
The route took us past birchwoods and farmland, fields that were reassuringly fenced, considering some of their occupants!
A baleful stare from this boy
Approaching the site of the Battle of Cromdale
At a junction of tracks we took the one signed for the Piper's Stone, through Lethendry farmyard and round a plantation of Scots pine. A buzzard was flying above the trees making its plaintive cry as we passed.
They're not heading home - just taking photos
Track skirting Claggersnich Wood (love that name)
The story goes that Hamish, a wounded Jacobite piper, made it as far as a boulder by two Scots pines where he stood and piped tune after tune to encourage his comrades, until he collapsed and died from his injuries. The two Scots pines beside the boulder are still standing.
Two Scots pines beside the Piper's Stone
At the highest point of the track, directly above the two pines, a path forks off to the right to climb on to the moor, passing a line of grouse butts. It's meant to be boggy, which I don't remember, but maybe it was. This led up to the ridge at a point marked by a remarkably tall cairn. This prominent cairn is the Coronation Cairn, built to commemorate the crowning of King Edward VII and Queen Alexandra in 1902.
Coronation Cairn
The continuing path, also known for bogginess
View back along the ridge and path looks dry here
Maybe 2017 was a dry spring? I don't remember.
Zoomed to Ben Rinnes (right of centre)
It was an easy amble along the ridge, to a final short steep bit up to the summit of Creagan a' Chaise.
Slight stony rise to reach summit
Once again, in true Cromdale style, a massive cairn at the summit. This magnificent, two-tiered circular cairn is slightly older than the coronation one and was built to mark Queen Victoria's Golden Jubilee in 1887. Inside the cairn is a visitors book in which you can record your visit. It was so windy at this point we decided not to bother.
Jubilee Cairn at Creagan a' Chaise summit 722m
Twa wifies at the cairn
View south to Cairngorms
Zoomed to tors of Ben Avon
Zoomed to Grantown on Spey
To return we retraced our steps, enjoying views over Speyside as we went.
Back at the tall pines where I'd seen the buzzard
We didn't see any sign of the reindeer herd that frequents the Cromdale hills but on the way down saw some bonny black faced lambs.
In a field of very little grass
No more posing - they've had enough
It was a most enjoyable walk with good views and interesting history thrown in. I don't remember if we stopped for a coffee on the way home but if we did it might have been in Grantown.
