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Well, only (almost) a year late, I thought I'd post up my memories of what was a day that I will remember (for a number of reasons) for a very long time!
I'd always wanted to visit St.Kilda since I saw a film on Channel 4 'Ill Fares The Land', way back in the early 1980's (if anyone knows how to get hold of a copy, I'd love to see it again), and our planned visit to Lewis gave us the perfect opportunity. I did my research and booked with Sea Harris running from Leverburgh on Harris. With 30 + years experience in the RN, I preferred the look of their boat 'Enchanted Isle', which to my mind would handle the 'interesting' sea crossing better than the rival companies boat (and I was right as it turned out)!
I'd recommend that you stay in Harris the night before by the way, as we almost missed the sailing time. We were up in Borrowston, and had a 2 hour trip to get to Leverburgh! However, we made it just in time, and were welcomed onboard and made comfortable before a safety brief. It was a little grey as we set off, but the guys onboard were hopeful that the day would improve (it did) and initially, all was well....
Then we left the lee of Harris, and it began to get interesting!
Now, a bit of advice from an old sailor, if you are thinking of undertaking this trip, make sure that you have a decent breakfast before you go! Trust me, the last thing that you want is to be sea sick on an empty stomach, and of the 12 passengers, at least 8 were....mostly quite violently! Indeed, even I felt a bit peaky at one point (and I never get sea sick), but it was mostly due to the 'smell', if you get my drift....
The worst thing was that my wife was particularly suffering, and was almost delirious and constantly shaking, I really thought that I'd made a horrendous decision!
The trip over takes approximately 2.5 hours, and according to my wife and some of the other passengers, it was the 'longest 2.5 hours' in their lives....oops!
As time passed though, the Island started to appear almost magically in the distance, and the entrance into the bay, really is magnificent. Due to the local restrictions to preserve the flora and fauna, you anchor in the bay, are taken ashore via a dinghy and greeted by the island warden who gives a few do's / donts, as well as info about the island itself.
When we visited, there were two boats from Harris, one from Skye and a yacht, and as the warden had been advised that there were a fare few 'poorly' folks coming ashore, she'd put on the heating in the museum, which was most welcome!
Another tip, take a flask! We didn't...big mistake! Apart from a toilet block, there really are no facilities for tourists, no cafe, no drinks dispenser! So any food or drink that you want for the day, you really do need to take yourself! We had plenty of food and water, but a hot brew, would have revived my ailing partner much quicker.....
However, as we all began to warm up and look around the (really interesting) museum, so did the weather! Huzzah!
Feeling sufficiently recovered (and bless her, knowing that this trip was a major bucket list for me), we both set out up the hill above the village with the aim of reaching the summit of Conachar. It's a really stunning walk, past the myriad of Cleit's (small food storage cairns), native Soay sheep and up towards 'The Gap'!
By now, the sun was blazing, and for a while we sat, peering over the sheer drop and watching the birds soaring from nest to thermal, and then swooping down to fish! Wonderful!
My wife didn't feel quite up to making the summit so I set off alone, as she enjoyed the beautiful weather and views!
As I made my way up, I passed several rusted old iron posts that the Kildan Men would use to secure their (handmade) ropes before dropping over 'The Gap', to harvest eggs and Fulmar. They really were an astonishingly brave and hardy bunch of people!
Finally on reaching the summit, I was rewarded with some stunning views of the Island, the bay and across to 'the Stacks', particularly Boreray!
With time pressing, I abandoned the route as listed on this site, and retraced my steps to meet my much revived better half, and proceeded to explore the ruins of the village!
Sadly, it was all to soon, time to depart, and we were greeted back onboard the Enchanted Isle with a hot cuppa, and a slice of homemade ginger cake (delicious and good for settling the stomach
).
It wasn't straight back though, as as we left the bay, we headed out to tour the Stacks. The guys onboard giving a cracking commentary on the wildlife and history (again, the Kildans were an incredibly hardy bunch)!
The trip back, was much smoother (you run with the sea as opposed to against it), and as the island disappeared into the distance, I really felt lucky to have had the opportunity to visit a place that most never will!
So, should you go? Yes, absolutely! It is an astonishingly beautiful place and only lightly touched by mankind!
(Also, the 'old' MOD Base was almost demolished on our visit, so future visitors will only see the new 'eco' buildings...much less of a blot)!
It does take a bit of effort though! Its not a cheap day trip, and of course the weather could be against you! Indeed, had the sun not come out, my wife informed me that it probably would have ranked as one of the worst days of her life (due to the sea sickness)! As it turned out, she totally 'got' the place (phew), although has stated quite clearly that she will never make the sea crossing again....
I'll probably not get the opportunity to visit again....which of course makes my memories of the day so much more special!
