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A perfect forecast meant my first thoughts went to the west coast, specifically Torridon. Low winds obviously meant camping high! David was also up for joining us, but this meant that we were limited in hills as he only climbs marilyns and refuses to climb them more than once
Eventually we settled on Sgurr a’ Gharaidh – this would be really pushing at what I’m able to do at the moment so I was resigned to not making it….
We left Inverness just before lunchtime and had a relatively easy drive over. There was a lot of low cloud which we eventually left behind shortly after Garve, and by the time we arrived in Torridon it was a stunning day with a little low cloud still hanging over the loch
We had a quick stop into the village as I had spotted a painting in the gallery a few weeks ago that would look just perfect on the wall – fortunately Malky agreed and even paid for it
By now it was definitely past lunchtime so we headed towards Shieldaig and found somewhere to stop to eat our lunch. It didn’t hurt that Alligin was looking fabulous
From here it was a short drive around to our start point – David was waiting in the small parking area at the end of the Glasnock track where we could get vehicles safely off the road. Malky and I were largely ready to go; David was enjoying the latest in a long line of cups of tea
The Glasnock track and Sgurr a' Gharaidh David discovered his tent pegs lying around...which prompted Malky to joke about him also forgetting his poles (which was even funnier a few moments later when he discovered them somewhere else in his van
)
We figured I was going to be super slow so might as well get going – David would catch us up soon enough (assuming he located the rest of his tent... We headed down the track, crossed the burn, went through a gate and started heading uphill towards another gate through a deer fence. Now we were into heather
But the views back the way were stunning – we could see down Loch Damh to Beinn Alligin
Although the bracken and heather had looked pretty thick on this section of the hill, we could now see lots of animal tracks and wee paths through it. Not that there weren’t horrible bits, but it certainly wasn’t as bad as it looked!
After stopping for water we crossed what looked like a track (possibly useful for the way down!) before leaving the burn. As we climbed higher we could see the amazing corries of Beinn Bhan in the shadows
The burn sunk into a bit of a ravine ahead – definitely time to get away from it!
We were now heading for the limestone slabs – we were hoping the ground would be a bit better there
Limestone slabs
Looking back – Loch Damh and Alligin even more majestic now
With some more height gained we were now able to see down the glen towards Kishorn and Skye, and a tremendous inversion. It was really hazy though – we were hoping things might clear a little as the temperature dropped
Ahead – somewhere in or maybe just behind this big jumble of mountain was our summit
It was really hot work – we were walking really slowly and David still hadn’t caught us up yet! Apparently his running up Beinn Dearg this morning took more out of him than he’d expected
We stopped to enjoy the views while he caught us up
Waiting for David Maol-Chean Dearg and An Ruadh-Stac (Malky and David were planning to return over those two the next day…)
David decided he didn’t like this hill – it was hot, he was tired, he’d fallen arse-deep into a hole and there were midges
However the ground had improved. We were above the heather and now just had to wind our way in between crags and ridges (and the small matter of about 400m of ascent. I was already struggling
)
The boys decided to take the next steep bit head on – I picked a grassy ledge around the side which took me around the back on an easier gradient and brought me out just above the wee lochans
The final sting in the tail was ahead
The breeze was largely still there, but anytime it dropped even for a moment the midges were there waiting…. We were keeping our fingers crossed for a bit more wind at the summit (and not from Malky’s backside…
And finally we were on the summit plateau…although there was a bit of disagreement about where the actual summit was
Beinn Damh, Beinn Eighe, Maol-Chean Dearg and An Ruadh-Stac
Summit achieved The Kililian hills with Sgurr na Ceathreamhnan behind
I was exhausted but chuffed to have made it – the last 100 metres had just about broken me. What I needed was to sit down and relax for a good while….unfortunately the midges had other ideas
The breeze was just about enough to keep midges at bay assuming I didn’t sit down for too long, but it had an awful habit of disappearing for 10 minutes, creating midgey hell
We dug out midge nets (except David who had forgotten his
) and managed to get tents up.
It was definitely dinner time, so while David ran off to hide in his tent for a while, we got our dinner on. The breeze picked up a little so we were able to enjoy the views out to the end of Skye and northern tip of the Applecross peninsula
Malky offered to cook David’s noodles for him and by the time he’d got them ready he bravely left the tent to discover that the breeze was back and all was well
Of course the beer helped
Looking towards Skye – with the nights drawing in the evening seemed to go by far quicker, and already the light was starting to drop
Having carried the big lens I was damn well going to use it
Beinn Alligin and the end of the Beinn Damh ridge
The high hills of Harris
David looking out towards the Kylerhea hills
Fuar Tholl
David enjoyed a soup course and then we got custard on the go – I’d brought giant slabs of homemade brownie (well, I’d baked them, Malky carried them. Seemed fair
)
Then it seemed to be time for the evenings entertainment
The sun dipping towards the horizon
Some amazing light bouncing onto Maol-chean Dearg and An Ruadh-Stac
Harris and Lewis even clearer now
The amazing cliffs of Beinn Bhan in silhouette
The sun saying cheerio for the night
The inversion was creeping further up the glen
As we sat and enjoyed the aftershow, Harris became more and more clear even Malky’s phone camera managed to pick it up
)
With the light gone, the temperature dropped and guess what…the midges were gone!!
Trying to do some stretches…
Malky dug out the hip flask while I played around with my camera
Funnily enough it’s hard to stand still for a 20 second exposure
Oops
“Oh, I thought you were finished”
It was time for bed… we could only hope that the breeze was still there in the morning or it could be pretty unpleasant….
I woke up about 1am needing to pee, and stumbled outside for a few moments before diving back in for my camera – what a beautiful sight!
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I did manage to sleep for a bit after that but then got back up shortly after 5 for the sunrise. There was a lovely red glow to the east…looked like it might be a good one
And then, right on time the sun popped out from behind Fuar Tholl – we were on
The bouncy-bouncy light started to light up Beinn Bhan…..Show us yer corries!!
South across Lochcarron
Malky was still fast asleep but David came out to watch the sunrise and admire Skye
Beinn Bhan & Sgurr a’ Chaorachain
Ben Shieldaig still an island stranded in the cloud
The sun was now up
Lochcarron and South
Beinn Bhan
Beinn Sgritheall 
The 5 sisters of Kintail 
Sgurr nan Ceatheamhnan 
Sgurr na Ciche 
Beinn Alligin 
The Skye Bridge 
Bla Bheinn & Garbh Bheinn 
Skye 
Beinn Bhan 
Malky's awake! I loved how the sun was reflecting on the clouds
The midges were starting to come out so headed back to the tent to sleep for a bit. I was woken up around 9.30 when Malky shouted in disgust – it looked like there were a lot of midges around the tent. We decided to hide for a while….
Unfortunately it was getting so hot that we decided we would have to get up – I packed all my stuff away as it was all to hand before getting out the tent to allow Malky some more space. As it turned out, as soon as I was away from the tent there was a nice breeze and I could enjoy the morning. David was on his 3rd cup of tea
Previous summit camp, An Ruadh-mheallan, looked tiny to the left of Beinn Alligin!
The cloud to the north had risen higher up the hills
What a morning
There were definitely still midges around so after some breakfast we decided to get going. I was planning to head back similar to the way we had come up but pick up an ATV track we had spotted at the bealach. It was hot and I was tired.
David and Malky had downgraded their plans – neither could really be arsed climbing any extra hills but they decided they’d head down the corrie. I’d had enough of the midges and headed off. As it turned out as soon as I started dropping down the breeze picked up significantly!
I managed to find a slightly more interesting route down the first section than planned, involving climbing around some crags
There were some nasty heathery sections too but once at the lochans things were improved
Looking back up
Beinn Bhan visible
A short climb followed by a drop brought me to the ATV track. It was a bit damp at first but largely was in very good nick and made the descent nice and easy. Looking back up it didn’t look such a small hill – no wonder I was knackered
Lochcarron, Kishorn and out to Skye
Rum now visible too
The Bealach na Ba road The track seemed to head further down the road than I wanted so I headed off piste for a short section to where I hoped to pick up the track we had crossed on the way up. The views down Loch Damh where much better than the haze of the previous afternoon
The corries of Beinn Bhan already starting to come into shade
I dropped onto the track and filled up my water bottle with wonderful cool water. I even considered a dip in the lovely little rock pools until the midges came out and spoiled everything
From here the easiest route seemed to be to follow our outward route – the animal tracks were much easier to spot on the way down and before long I was back on the track. The heat was immense and I was exhausted
The last few metres (some of them uphill!) to the car nearly finished me, but fortunately there was a bit of a breeze as well as a carton of juice and change of clothes in the car waiting for me!
Beinn Damh, Maol-Chean Dearg & An Ruadh-Stac Malky and David were actually only 5 minutes behind me and they also seemed glad not to have to carry anything any further! We enjoyed some lunch before considering what to do next – the wee hill An Staonach was looking a possibility but David and I agreed on one thing – we needed a long break before even contemplating it
