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We were getting desperate. After bad weather aborting plans with kath098 several times already, the clocks changing wasn't going to help. The weekend was out but on Monday she didn't start work until 5.00 pm and we figured it's dark by 4.30 anyway so we could fit in a shortish one.
I've been thinking about Am Faochagaich for a while and had a sudden urge to do it. I'm like that with hills - they can be sitting there unconquered for ages and then suddenly I have to climb them! I figured with an early start we could be up and down this one and have Kath home in time for a shower before work. But incase of delay I suggested she bring her work stuff so I could take her straight there if need be. So I picked her up at 7.00 am and we were up at the Torrandhu bridge on the Ullapool road around 8.00 am.
Ready for off, reflected sun in the western sky
Cloud sitting low on our hill
Every time anyone has spoken about this hill they've mentioned the very wet walk in so I wasn't surprised by the waterlogged path. But constantly avoiding going knee deep in mud does slow you down.
Loch Glascarnoch and the waterlogged path
Next obstacle after the boggy ground is the Abhainn a'Ghrabainn river. I've read so much about this river. Butterfield says it presents major problems in spate and should only be attempted in drought!
WH reports varied from crossing waist deep to getting over dry shod so I wasn't sure what to expect. I decided to carry wellies in as far as the river then stash them for the return crossing and since it was likely the water would be above wellie level I'd take off my socks and don bin bags which I'd attach to my jacket with pegs.
The river not looking too bad
I got myself all kitted up but couldn't find the pegs to stop the bin bags falling round my ankles (found them later) so they were jettisoned. The exposed rocks on the way to the island were lethally slippy making me a bit nervous about the submerged rocks so I went over very carefully thankful I wasn't doing it bare foot. The current was quite strong so I was glad of the poles for balance. In places the water level was mid thigh
and I wondered how much deeper it would go! Once across I got dried off and left the wellies beside a green mound of moss that would be easy to spot on our return. My Paramo trousers were great as opening the side zips meant they dried off very quickly.
Kath had seen how deep it was where I crossed so tried a place where there were protruding rocks.
Kath crossing on rocks
But there was a strong current between the rock she was perched on and the bank so she turned back and found another place to wade across.
By the time we were both across and dried off it was one hour after we had left the car!
Loch a Gharbhrain
We followed the muddy path up the east side of the Allt na h-Uidhe.
Waterfall on Allt na h-Uidhe
As we climbed views were opening up to the west
An Teallach
We kept to the path as it climbed more steeply to the bealach where there was a small cairn. At this point we headed north along the ridge on grassy ground with stones. Ahead of us was thick cloud so we couldn't see Beinn Dearg, apart from occasional glimpses. The wind was strong and looking back the cloud appeared to be chasing us fast along the ridge.
Cloud blowing in fast from south
Occasionally the clag cleared to give us views. At one point it suddenly cleared and we could see a flock of ptarmigan standing perfectly camoflaged among grey and white rocks but before I got the camera out they spotted the dogs and took to the air.
The dogs checking the ground where the ptarmigan had been
Sunlit AnTeallach
The ridge rose up to a broad dome then there was a gentle descent before climbing again.
A break in the cloud
We followed a path that didn't go straight up Am Faochagaich but traversed a bit round to the north. The flat summit was in cloud and we couldn't immediately see the cairn. Then we saw two, so headed for the larger one.
Kath at summit cairn
Disappointingly we couldn't see Beinn Dearg and Cona Meall, although they were so close, so there was little point in going further. The wind was so strong we decided not to linger at the top but head for lower ground to find some shelter.
Woman on a mission to get out of the wind
After reaching the summit I think we both relaxed about direction and inadvertently walked off on a more easterly bearing than we should. We hadn't seen anything on the way up so it didn't immediately register that we shouldn't be seeing what we were now seeing!
View north
I haven't yet identified which hills these are
It was when we arrived at a well constructed cairn we realised we shouldn't be there. We were on the south easterly ridge that led to Meall Gorm. So we returned to the col, found some shelter and had lunch.
Jack enjoying his carrot
What we should have done after lunch was climb back up to join the path heading along the south ridge but instead we headed west along the side of a burn thinking we could get round the hill to the col leading to the correct ridge. It wasn't the best idea as it was hard work over rough ground and we ended up climbing a very steep grassy slope to avoid crags so we could reach the col from a higher level.
At this point the wind was very strong and we were both feeling scunnered with ourselves that after getting to the top so easily we'd got it wrong coming down.
The detour had cost us a lot of extra time and it now looked like Kath would be late for work.
Once we were back on the right ridge all was fine except for the thought of that river crossing. It was now raining so would the water levels have risen much?
Another concern was one of my new Leki poles refusing to lock at its joints so being no use. I wondered how I'd manage the river with just the one pole and reckoned a broomstick would be more useful to get this old biddy over the water and back to the car so Kath wouldn't be late for her work!
When we reached the river Kath (who had already had a couple of falls in mud and gone thigh deep in bog
) walked into the water without further ado and was soon across. She then flung one of her poles back to me and having donned the wellies I gingerly followed the line she had taken. I then kept on the wellies swishing full of water for the last 20 minutes through the bogfest back to the car.
I probably hadn't drunk enough and was low on salt as I know that can cause cramp. While pulling the wellies off I got cramp and was stamping around the parking area in agony. Then while driving and at traffic lights with foot on clutch the cramp returned in that leg and I drove through the lights yelling until I could put enough pressure on the foot to stop it!
Kath was a bit late for work and only after dealing with several people did she notice her nails were black and broken - perfect for a hallowe'en witch!
