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We climbed Ben Hope on 15th October and were on Ben Loyal three days later but since I don't have too many pics from either day I'll post them together.
We started the ascent of Ben Hope at Alltnacaillich farm which is not far north of the beehive-shaped broch Dun Dornaigil (worth a visit). Our dog then was a lab Danny who couldn't get enough of water and as soon as he was out the car made straight for a muddy ditch for his usual wallow.
There was a loose horse hanging around who seemed rather taken with our dog and perhaps with the benefit of hindsight I made the mistake of being a bit too friendly with him.
I say too friendly because he decided to join us on our climb up to the ridge and when we walked faster to try and shake him off he just broke into a trot to keep up!
Horse on a mission
We followed a path up the south side of the Allt na Caillich burn, which means old woman's burn (so good route for me then), and has some fine waterfalls cascading down from Leitir Mhuiseil ridge.
Strathmore and distant Loch Hope
I'm no horse whisperer (more of a dog person) but I tried everything I could think of to suggest to this horse that horses shouldn't be going off with people they don't know and they certainly shouldn't be climbing hills like this. I spoke to him quite firmly and said in my most calm and assertive voice (Cesar Millan would have been impressed) "Go home" pointing down the hill to the now distant farm. But he was having none of it. In fact he was becoming increasingly focussed on Pete's rucksack and at one point made a bit of a charge for it which neither Pete nor Danny much liked.
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The penny then dropped. This gentle equine giant had met hill walkers before and he was hiking with us in hope - stirred by fond memories of cheese and ham rolls and the occasional apple. The poor chap was hungry! But he evidently felt we weren't getting the message quickly enough and made another spirited charge after the red rucksack. It was at that point my long suffering husband delivered an ultimatum. "If you want me to climb this hill with you (big concession in the first place) you have to get rid of this horse! It's either him or me!"
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So what do I do now? Then I saw my chance. We were almost on the ridge and about to cross the burn which involved a bit of rock hopping. It wouldn't present much of a barrier to any fit outdoorsy type equine but I thought it might give me the pyschological edge. I hung back so Pete and Dan were out of sight then took up my position on a prominent rock at the crossing point and shouted in the nastiest scariest voice I could muster (wasn't a teacher all those years for nothing) and waved my pole threateningly at him.
I felt a brute doing it, especially when he stopped and looked bewilderedly at me. But I had to maximise my advantage so kept on hollering like a banshee and brandishing my pole and I could just see the poor chap thinking "Good grief, get me out of here" as sadly he turned and started his long plod back to the farm.
The rest of the walk north towards the summit was problem free on a broad grassy ridge with the occasional boulder. As we followed the edge of the cliffs on our left we saw an eagle soaring just below us but I didn't have camera out in time. The summit cairn felt impressively airy with great but hazy views of the Kyle of Tongue, Ben Loyal and out to the Pentland Firth and Orkney Islands.
Summit cairn of most northerly Munro
Our descent route was west down through a break in the cliffs following a steepish path by a burn that joins a burn from the Dubh-loch na Beinne. At the point we reached the road there was a sign indicating the way to Ben Hope so this is evidently the more frequented route, which if we'd taken we wouldn't have met HHH (hopeful hungry horse). We had a couple of km to walk back to the car and in the gloaming became aware of a large stag with an impressive head of antlers walking along the road just ahead and upwind of us. I had Dan on the lead and stood still not wanting to give the big fella a fright. But sixth sense told him he had company and he suddenly wheeled round and careered off the road before stopping and eyeing us warily. We just stayed still until he decided we were no immediate threat and trotted off, his head held high. What majestic creatures they are.
The icing on the cake to this fabulous day was seeing a badger running along the side of the road as we drove back to our cottage near Tongue.
Ben Hope with a sprinkling of snow from Kyle of Tongue
Ben Hope from Tongue
Three days later we headed off to Ben Loyal - not ever intending to climb to the top but just for a relaxed wander on the lower slopes to give the dog a walk.
Looking south from Melness to Ben Loyal on left and Ben Hope on right
Ben Loyal from Melness cemetery which must be one of the most scenic burial places in the land
Lower northern slopes of Loyal
Watching for deer
There they go
Labrador heaven
Hill sheep being gathered in for winter
Heart shaped flock
Flock a distant blur
Kyle of Tongue
Ben Loyal from Kyle of Tongue
Ben Loyal from a loch I've forgotten the name of where gold to help the Jacobites is meant to have been dumped!
Around the Kyle of Tongue is a stunning part of the land - one we've returned to again and again.
