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Sgiath Chuil and Meall Glas were two Munros that I had always thought would be challenging to do together. It was partly the deep drop between the two ridges on which they are situated, and partly the fact that they are often described as boggy hills. But they proved to be challenging to me for a quite different reason. I discovered just how much longer it takes me to do a walk in winter compared to a similar route in summer. My timings over the last year have generally been in the middle of the range given by Walkhighlands for Munro routes. I have adjusted these a bit for winter walking - usually working with the longer time quoted. But, I've now found that that is not enough. I'm probably going to have to add something like 50% to my summer time estimates to give myself a reasonable estimate of timings in the winter - the time of year when timing is all the more critical!
I'm not sure why it takes me so much longer in winter but I reckon that a heavier packs and trudging through snow as well as time needed to adjust clothing to suit wilder conditions all play their part. Or maybe it just that "I'm getting old and slow and due to retire"
(sorry Runrig!)
The plan had been to get an early start - that's always a good idea in winter!
But it didn't quite work out that way due to delays on route and me not being as efficient as I should be! So it was 9:30am before I set off from the new car park east of Kenknock in Glen Lochay. Ben Challum and the other hills to the west looked inviting in the early morning sunshine.
- Ben Challum and other hills
It was clear that the River Lochay was in spate due to melt-water so I decided that my approach to the hill would be by the Hydro board's road which provided a convenient bridge to cross the river.
- The Bridge over the River Lochay
I didn't seem to take me long to zigzag up the hill to the end of the road where views of Creag Mhor opened up to the west.
- Creag Mhor
From here my route was above the trees and over the burn (using a Hydro-board weir to cross) and then onto the north ridge of Meall a' Churain as my route to the summit of Sgiath Chuil. I reached patches of snow at about 500 metres and Beinn Cheathaich came into clear view across the beallach to the west.
- Beinn Cheathaich
Shower clouds rolled in bringing snow and the wind strengthen to what felt to me like gale force but I kept steadily on through widening snow fields and steeping ground. And then I was there at the top of Meall a' Churain looking south to the summit of Sgiath Chuil with Ben More in the background.
- Towards the summit of Sgiath Chuil
So then it was a straightforward stroll along the ridge following the one set of footprints through the snowfields that led the way. The summit cairn proved to be one of the lesser cairns I have visited and by now the wind was chilling my face and hands quite a bit! Time for wrapping up a bit more!
- Sgiath Chuil Summit
Now it was time to head across to Meall Glas which could now be seen beyond Beinn Cheathaich to the west.
- Meal Glas from Sgiath Chuil
But this was the point where I started to wonder about the wisdom of doing the second Munro. It was already 1pm and there was still a long way to go. It had taken me 3.5 hours to get this far and I had hoped to be at this summit by midday. I resolved to descend to the beallach below and make my decision then once I was down and out of the punishing wind! (it doesn't show much in the pictures - but it was wild!).
- At the summit of Sgiath Chuil
The route I chose down the steep west slopes of Sgaith Chuil was not the best. I went a bit too far north before descending and ended up having to make my way carefully round crags. From below it looks like the easiest descent route is west for the intermediate top on the ridge about 300 metres north of the summit. But it is far easier to see a route from below than looking down a steep slope. One good thing was that most of this hillside was clear of snow - which made life a bit easier. The photographs don't really show how steep it was!
- The western slopes of Sgiath Chuil
I usually find there as a part on almost every walk which goes very smoothly - when I seem to make a lot of progress in a short time without feeling I am pushing it - I call it the golden time!
Anyway, it came probably at the wrong part of this walk, because I was down at the beallach in a little over half an hour and I was beginning to believe that I could perhaps make the summit of Meall Glas by about 3pm - a bit late, yes, but with time to reach Beinn Cheathaich on the return before 4pm and the to make the descent to the hill road on its northern ridge before dark. Well, with hindsight I can say that was somewhat delusional thinking and I had not reckoned with snow fields and growing tiredness - along with around 360 meters of ascent and several kilometres to cover! But I decided to go on and headed for the spur on the south side of the ridge which was to be my route forward. That was a bad decision - not disastrous - but bad - and one from which I will learn!
- The spur to the ridge
There was a lot of snow filling the hollows on my route. It was that special consistency that supports you until you are just beginning to transfer your weight onto it then it gives. And then there were the deeper bits that had to be avoided at all costs - there was probably a raging burn down there hidden under a tunnel of snow! But occasionally I sunk up to my waist in the white stuff!
I tried to keep to snow-free ground when I could but it was not always possible. When the snow got steep I had to kick steps - it wasn't firm enough for the crampons! Eventually I reached the col between Beinn Cheathaich and Meall Glas and the summit rose up before me!
- The summit ridge of Meall Glas
There was a lot of snow on the western slopes of Meall Glas so I aimed to ascend from the south eastern side. This still involved some snowy climbs but there was a fair amount of clear ground too! As I climbed the nearby Corbett, Beinn nan Imirean was enveloped in cloud.
- Beinn nan Imirean
So I reached the summit of Meall Glas. It seemed a finer mountain to me than it is often give credit for. Maybe it was the evening light but this Munro impressed me!
- At the summit of Meall Glas
But even as I took a moment to look around I realised that things were not looking good. Cloud seemed to be closing in from all directions and the light was fading fast. I checked the time - it was almost 4pm. I was well past my estimated time for being here and now I faced the prospect of navigating a difficult route back in the dark.
- The summit cairn - Meall Glas
I would have to make my way back as quickly as possible. My main concern was to find my way back to Beinn Cheathaich while there was still some light. Beyond that I was fairly confident that I could make my way down the north-east ridge back to Lubchurran and my route back to the car. But the cloud came down and complicated things further!
- Cloud on the summits
The compass was out in earnest as I took bearings to navigate across the col to the south-east of the summit of Meall Glas. It's one of those hummocky areas which make for difficult navigating. I was half way across this area, taking care crossing the snow beds, when the cloud lifted and I could see the way forward again - in the fading light! Soon Meall Glas itself was fading behind me.
- Meall Glas in the fading light
Once I was on the ridge I made good progress. Again the wind was strengthening and buffeting me quite a bit. I pressed on to trig pillar at the summit of my last Top of the day: Beinn Chathaich.
- Trig pillar on Beinn Cheathaich
After that it was all downhill!
I followed the North-east ridge down hoping to cross the hill road that climbs up from Lubchurran burn which I would then follow down to the glen. I didn't, however, find it (it wasn't marked on the OS map I was using but I had seen it earlier and it is mentioned in the Walkhighland's route) and so continued carefully descending the ridge, thankful for a good head-torch (and a rising full moon) to show the way.
I reached the road which brought me past Lubchurran - although I didn't notice the house! I was quite surprised when I went through a gate and found I was standing at the edge of what I first thought was a large pool of water. The I realised I was already at the river. I had previously considered making my way down river on it's south bank and crossing at the hydro-board bridge, but the thought of crossing burns, ditches, fences and woodland did not appeal. So I checked the water depth and flow and it didn't seem too bad. So I waded across. The water was over my boots in the middle but it was nice and cool on the feet!
Once over, though, I had a straightforward march back to the car which I reached just after 7pm.
I am not proud of misjudging the time so badly. I would not have minded simply walking the road in the dark - but unknown country is a different matter. I had to be very careful coming down the ridge - especially when crossing snow fields and it would have helped to have found the hill road - but I knew it was pointless trying to find it when I didn't know its position with any accuracy. I didn't feel particularly anxious at any time but I was glad to have gained the ridge on the way back before the light had faded completely. I will be more careful in future - especially when out on my own. And I'll allow a bit more time in these short winter days too!