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We hadn't intended doing this for our first walk on our first holiday in Scotland but the forcast was relatively good and I was talked into it by my husband!
The day was overcast but as good as it was going to get. Due to endless roadworks on the road from Oban we were late arriving and didn't set off until 11.45. With sunset at 18.20 we knew we had our work cut out for us (we are southern softies) and set deadlines for turning back. We set of with layers of clothes, waterproofs, poles, boots, plenty of food and drink, sunglasses (wishful thinking) and Molly the dog. We should have had a compass and a map (left at home by accident) but we figured if we stuck to the path and there were others around we would be okay.
The ben wasn't busy with it being March and a weekday. I think we say about 20 people all day.
We got to the lochan and I couldnt quite believe we were not yet halfway but made to to the Red Burn in 1hour 45mins. Up until we met the clouds at about 700m we had great views. From this point though, all the way through the zigzags we were in cloud and while we felt safe enough it made it hardgoing with nothing to look at except grey stone that seemed to go on....and on.... and on. It was a relief to get to the snow, for about 50 yards!
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I think we hit snow at about 1100m. We had no crampons or axes but had met several people along the way that had made it without, and advised us that with caution, in our walking boots we would be fine. Clambering through knee deep snow was extremely tough with aching muscles and still climbing higher. If it hadn't been for the footsteps and cairns we would not have been able to continue as the cloud was still thick. You could just about see the next cairn when you arrived at one. We had a conversation about whether to proceed and decided to take it step by step.
Eventually the snow started to plateau out and the sight of our first ever fogbow spurred us on. It was amazing!
A helpful fellow walker came to explain to us about brocken spectres and then proceeded to effortlessly stride off towards the fogbow - I thinks he must have got to the top of the mountain by helicoptor!
When we reached the summit we were rewarded by 10 minutes of sunshine as we broke through the cloud. No views but I had long given up any hope of those! For a short while Molly sat on the trig point and was the highest dog in the British Isles
It grated slightly that there were two 'tourists' in jeans, hoodies, fashionable trainers and a tescos carrier bag, while we laboured under the weight of necessary supplies!!
We sat on the summit cairn for our picnic not realising that it actually forms a 10ft structure ans the snow met the top! The emergency/observatory hut was visible but there was no way of knowing that there were any other ruins/structures on the top.
It soon got cold when the clouds engulfed us once again, and our muscles started to stiffen up. At 3.45 we set off for the car. At this point Molly gave up temporarily and had to be carried until we were off the snow - in fairness she was quite literally out of her depth!! Coming off the snow was scary in places but we took it easy and eventually made it to the stoney zigzags.
It was speedy going down although our knees took the brunt of it and by halfway I had jelly legs. We came out of the cloud just above the lochan and enjoyed the views going the rest of the journey back to the car. We made it back at 6.30, 10 minutes after sunset. To our disappointment the inn wasn't open for a rewarding tipple but the log fire and bottle of red back at our holiday cottage was reward enough!
As much as it loaths me to say it I suspect some would deem us to fall into the 'tourist' group. We received scathing looks from one couple that we passed when we were near the top and asked if it was much further. I may have been out of breath at this point and struggling but we didnt warrant such disgust. We may not be seasoned climbers - we live at least 100 miles from any hill - but we love having the opportunity and making the most of the beautiful British Isles that we live in. They laughed and told us 5 mins, then told us more seriously - about 2 hours. We reached the summit in less than an hour so I don't understand what they were trying to acheive other than trying to make us turn back! All the other walkers were a pleasure to meet and made our cloudy journey a pleasure.
Although I said never again for the few days it took for my muscles to recover I can't wait to return and try another route - hopefully on a clearer day!
