free to be able to rate and comment on reports (as well as access 1:25000 mapping).
Day OneWe started off from Whitewell a few kilometres south of Coylumbridge, at the respectable hour of 11am. Our intention was to bivvy overnight on Sgor Gaoith, so we would still arrive at our destination with plenty of daylight to spare. But as it turned out, the walk took much longer than expected...
We headed up the track and after getting slightly confused by the path network in Rothiemurchus, we soon reached Loch an Eilein. We skirted around the loch and just before Loch Gamhna, turned up a side path towards the south. A sign at the start of the path warned us that the path was not maintained, but we thought we'd take our chances and use it regardless (we like living on the edge).
I had just acquired a fancy new tarp for use with my bivvy bag, so I wasn't carrying a tent but my rucksack was still uncomfortably heavy. A few adjustments to the straps were necessary.
A couple of kilometres up the track, we reached a hut from which a short path apparently headed southeast through the forest beside the Allt Coire Follais, towards Creag Follais. According to the map, at least. However, we could not find any trace of a path as we made our way up the steep forested slopes. The forest in the mist had a magical atmosphere though, and seemed almost tropical. Truly ancient Caledonian forest, with Scots Pine, birch, heather, and hummocks that made the ascent particularly difficult. The midges were also out in force.
Rothiemurchus by
GariochT, on Flickr
Atmospheric forest by
GariochT, on Flickr
It was a relief when we finally emerged above the tree line, and we continued upwards through the deep heather, towards the top of the ridge. Near the top, we found an impressive array of meteorological paraphernalia – thermometers, anemometers, those funny white 'beehive' boxes, solar panels, and even a step ladder and bottle of antifreeze.
Weather monitoring by
GariochT, on Flickr
Dreich by
GariochT, on Flickr
We continued along the ridge, by this time in thick cloud and carefully following our compass bearings, eventually reached Sgoran Dubh Mor, followed by Sgor Gaoith itself. We could just see the top of the steep plunging cliffs. Just like the last time we were here we had virtually no view whatsoever, let alone of Loch Einich far below. Ah well, maybe the views would come tomorrow...
It was a bit breezy on the Munro summit itself, and we needed to top up our water supplies. The bealach by Fuaran Diotach, a kilometre or so further south therefore looked promising as a bivvy spot. It was just a case of trying to find it in the cloud, which we eventually did. It was indeed ideal as a bivvy spot with flat and soft ground next to a stream of crystal clear water. I think it was around 10pm when we actually arrived there though. We had considered descending to Loch Einich but it was far too late, and the visibility too bad, for that.
We set up our bivvies and I pitched my tarp like a tent using my hiking pole and bungees (I had been watching instructional YouTube videos by tarp enthusiasts the day before...).
After using half a box of matches in a attempt to light our stoves, we enjoyed a lukewarm dinner of pasta and tomato sauce followed by homemade rhubarb crumble and a cup of Cairngorm Gold. It was then time for bed. I clearly need more practice in installing myself into my sleeping bag within the bivvy bag under the tarp – it was a real struggle.
Dreich bivvy by
GariochT, on Flickr
Day TwoI awoke from a very good sleep. My warm sleeping bag was very comfortable. The view outside was nothing to write home about – still dreich – but I felt very content in my cosy tarp. I didn't get up until after 8am.
Rain by
GariochT, on Flickr
Bivvy view by
GariochT, on Flickr
A slow breakfast and only one mug of coffee – we failed to light the stove for a second one – I really must get a new box of matches and keep it dry.
We struck camp then headed south, southeast, east and then north across the boggy ground to the south of Loch Einich. Following compass bearings and counting our steps to estimate distances seemed to work well, although a few unexpected lochans caught us by surprise.
Loch nan Cnapan by
GariochT, on Flickr
The incessant cloud had finally started to lift by the time we were southeast of Loch Einich, so we could enjoy impressive views across to Sgor Gaoith (the cloud still clinging to the ridge) and down to the loch.
Gleann Einich by
GariochT, on Flickr
Sgor Gaoith by
GariochT, on Flickr
Loch Einich by
GariochT, on Flickr
Gleann Einich and Carn na Criche by
GariochT, on Flickr
Sgor Gaoich and Loch Einich panorama by
GariochT, on Flickr
We continued up into the cloud towards Carn na Criche, passing the Coire Dhondail path on our way. A dotterel was hardly fazed by our presence.
Long ascent by
GariochT, on Flickr
Dotterel by
GariochT, on Flickr
Lichen by
GariochT, on Flickr
The cairn of Carn na Criche eluded us but we eventually managed to get to the brindled upland of Braeriach – a very isolated plateau and birthplace of the River Dee.
The Birth of the River Dee by
GariochT, on Flickr
We headed over to the Falls of Dee which plunge over the side of the mountain into the Garbh Coire. A stunning view down the Lairig Ghru and across to Sgor an Lochan Uaine and Cairn Toul continually emerged through, then was concealed by, the rolling clouds. My favourite spot in the Cairngorms.
From the Falls of Dee by
GariochT, on Flickr
After spending some time just sitting there enjoying the view we crossed the stream and headed through more cloud, and over a few easy boulder fields, to the Munro summit itself.
Braeriach buttress by
GariochT, on Flickr
Vista from Braeriach by
GariochT, on Flickr
View from Braeriach by
GariochT, on Flickr
We had initially intended to find a descente route down one of the ridges that flank Loch Coire an Lochain but the contour lines to the northwest seemed unnervingly close to each other. So we instead opted for the more established route down Sron na Lairig. Despite the presence of a path, it was an unrelenting descent and unforgiving on the knees.
Sron na Lairig by
GariochT, on Flickr
Sron na Lairig by
GariochT, on Flickr
Lairig Ghru by
GariochT, on Flickr
We eventually joined the Lairig Ghru which slowly led down into the Rothiemurchus Forest – particularly beautiful in the Allt Druidh glen.
Into the forest by
GariochT, on Flickr
On reaching the Cairngorm Club Footbridge we knew we didn't have far to go, and we finally got back to the car after 10pm.
A successful bivvy trip!