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Having arrived in Ardnamurchan the day before for a week-long stay in October, a habit formed over 5 years that's proving impossible to break, and keen to make an early dent in the hills with minimum impact on family time, I was up before 5am and on the road well before 6am, like a kid at Xmas.
Lured to this particular route by TR's from malkyc initially, then collaciotach and robertphillips, I headed East, back towards Ardgour and, aided by the complete absence of any other vehicle on the road
(sensible people were still wrapped in their duvets), just the odd stag or ewe, made light work of the drive and eased-off on the gas once down on to the Glengalmadale road. I was now in unfamiliar territory, it was still dark, no moon and, while I knew I was on the narrow single-track, flanked by the slopes of Meall nan Each and Loch Linnhe, I couldn't see a thing.
Soon after I was rolling quietly through Glengalmadale so as not to disturb the natives on the sabbath but couldn't at first see where to leave the car in the dark and drove on through, past Camasnacroise and on until I turned in the opening for Kingairloch Boathouse. I sat here for a bit to have a look at the map and considered leaving the car here and striding out on to the Southern slopes of Beinn na Cille but, opted to wait for enough light to tackle the circuit from the glen below, as planned
(Beinn na Cille wasn't in my original plan and I didn't think I had time to slot it in). My reason for doing these two Corbetts from this side, apart from the circuit's obvious beauty, had been for the earlier light than say, Glen Tarbert. I put in a text to the Estate with my planned route and it was still dark as I drove back down into Glengalmadale and found a good spot to leave the car just back over the small bridge. It was, by now, about 7.15am and with enough light to see my way in, I walked back over the bridge, taking a quick right on to a good, stony landrover track towards the wee dam.
It took all of 10-15 minutes to reach the small dam wall and started up the hillside, initially following Allt Coire Nan Darach...
...but quickly opted for the less-steep looking Allt Coire Mhic Gugain, which involved a quick traverse around Meall a' Bhuiridh and it was here I met this wee chap..
View up the glen at daybreak to Creach Beinn (left) and Meall Nan Each (Right)
I could now see the route to the bealach ahead of me with the sky brightening...
...and there were some pleasant distractions along the way
Prior to gaining the bealach, a look back revealed the sun rising over Druim na Maodalaich and views to Appin over Loch Linnhe...
The bealach was reached and, continuing to ignore the draw of Beinn na Cille, Loch Uisge peeked out of the Morvern hillfoots...
Up ahead, on Meall Coire Mhic Gugain, my progress was being monitored...
First view of both, Fuar and Creach Bheinn, summits together
Meanwhile, behind me, interesting things were happening with the light over Loch Linnhe...
View down Coire an t-Seasglaich, through the Glengalmadale and beyond...
Loch Sunart, Beinn Resipole (cloud-capped) and, in the background, Eigg & Rum...
South to Morvern and future target Beinn Mheadhoin...
Fuar Bheinn's summit was gained soon after and the outlook over Shuna, Lismore and the Lynns of Lorn & Morvern resplendent...
Didn't hang about on top as I realised my time estimate was not going to be met and descended rather hurriedly down through the fairly precipitious craggy / rocky North side of Fuar Bhein, towards Bealach a' Mhonmhuir. On reaching the bealach I looked back only to see a nice, gently sloping grassy path to the NW of my decent (just off pic to the right)! A few seconds taken to check the map would have revealed this.
Creach Beinn now stood before me and there were several grassy lines ahead weaving through the rocks but the SE face and the big gash therein was a real draw...
A glance back to Fuar Bheinn revealed the beauty of it's East ridge to Meall Leac an Fhireoin
View down, Coire a Chuil Mhaim to where the Dubh Alltan met the Glengalmadale River
Creach Bheinn's summit was reached without too much more effort and the remains of the trig were inside one of two large shelter cairns
The views were, as hoped, magnificent. Beinn Resipole's summit was still in cloud and the Moidart hills were clear...
Heading off the summit to the NE, I encountered some odd rock formations. Two large dykes of about 6 and 8ft, as well as 4 walled circles. My imagination ran wild as I wondered about their use.
Garbh Beinn (Ardgour)
Loch Leven, Ballachullish and Ben Nevis (snow-capped)
An Coire Dubh (leading to Glen Tarbert)
The view down Dubh Alltan to Glengalmadale. I had a decision to make here as I was horribly behind my estimated time, do I continue over Maol Odhar and on to Meall nan Each or, drop down into the glen from here? In some deluded state of damage limitation, I decided upon the latter and so it was, with the words of the walkhighlands TR for this circuit ringing in my ears
"Although it is possible to ... drop down from Maol Odhar to shorten the day this would detract from a glorious round", down I went. Once well down into the glen it grew increasingly wet and I considered regaining Meall Nan Each but stubbornly carried on, only for it to get worse (there had been a lot of rain in the 2-3 days preceding this) and, by the time I crossed the Allt a' Chuil Mhaim, I was splashing around up to my ankles and hoping it would soon end. It didn't end until I reached the dam head!
It was very warm on the walk out and the final leg was very pleasant, despite the preceding bogfest. A final look back up the glen.
This is an excellent circuit and I would urge anyone considering it to allow time (though none was gained by dropping down) to do Bein na Cille, either from Kingairloch or Glengalmadale, and Meall nan Each.
