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Ben Macdui - 24th November 2012
Prologue: “Am Fear Liath Mòr; also known as The Big Grey Man of Ben MacDhui or simply The Greyman) is the name of a presence or creature which is said to haunt the summit and passes of Ben Macdui, the highest peak of the Cairngorms and the second highest peak in Scotland. It has been described as an extremely tall figure covered with short hair, or as an unseen presence that causes uneasy feelings in people who climb the mountain. Evidence of the existence of this creature is limited to various sightings and a few photographs of unusual footprints.”- Wikipedia
- grey man
Professor Norman Collie -1890:
"I was returning from the cairn on the summit in a mist when I began to think I heard something else than merely the noise of my own footsteps. Every few steps I took I heard a crunch, then another crunch as if someone was walking after me but taking steps three or four times the length of my own. I said to myself 'this is all nonsense'. I listened and heard it again but could see nothing in the mist . As I walked on and the eerie crunch, crunch sounded behind me I was seized with terror and took to my heels, staggering blindly among the boulders for four or five miles nearly down to Rothiemurchus Forest. Whatever you make of it I do not know, but there is something very queer about the top of Ben MacDhui and will not go back there again by myself I know."
Walk Report
Initially we had talked about trying Ledge Route on the Ben, however my arm had still not healed 100% so we decided on the Grey Corries……. but a look at the forecast mid week led us to move further east and the Cairngorms. My friend had yet to go up Derry Cairngorm so we planned an attack from the Northern Corries, up and over Macdui to Derry Cairngorm.
Another early start saw us on the A9 before 7 and we arrived at the ski car park for 08.30. Things were looking promising on the route up with starry skies giving way to clear blue skies. Heading into Coire an-t Sneachda and this was still the case, looked like it was going to be an awesome day!
With thoughts more on Derry Cairngorm than Macdui at this point and with the sun splitting the sky, little thought was given to darker things and the Am Fear Liath Mòr……
My previous two trips up Macdui were contrasting – one on a fine November day in 2002 with a couple of friends and the other on a fine day from Derry lodge where I had camped for a number of nights. I must admit when I ventured up Macdi on my own I did feel a little unsettled wondering if the Big Grey Man would make an appearance, however a sunny warm July day offset these thoughts……. The sunshine today was having a similar effect as we headed toward the Goat Track.
- looking good
We stopped and enviously watched some climbers tackle some of the mixed routes. The Goat track was also getting icy so we stopped and put the crampons on. It was at this point that I started to see the “table cloth” effect. The skies were blue overhead but the eye was drawn to the lip of the Corrie towards the plateux.
- table cloth sign
Whisps of cloud were falling over the edge and streaming in the upper part of the Corrie before evaporating. As we took a direct route up near the Goat Track we were greeted on the plateux by a spectacular sight with patches of mist floating eerily around the plateux. Perfect conditions for the Grey man…….
- looking in....
I still had hopes of a fine outing over the plateux to Macdui and beyond, however the closer we got the Britain’s second highest peak, the darker things became and soon all signs of the sun were gone. Macdui was caped in a thick mist. Initially, I was optimistic that its summit may be poking through the cloud to give a spectacular inversion, however as we reached the summit that hope had disappeared along with any chance of a view!! The clag was well and truly in and our mood lowered.
- into the mist..
The fact that our water had frozen did not help and it was decided the Derry Cairngorm would be part of a summer adventure in 2013!!
Figures appeared and disappeared out of the mist, but these were figures of the worldy kind and like minded hikers like us heading for the top.
The descent off Macdui was a claggy, misty affair watching the ground to make sure we did not loose a foot down a boulder!! However all was not lost and as we returned to the top of the Northern Corries the mist broke again and some fantastic views were given away of the Fiacaill Ridge.
- Fiacaill ridge
We decided to walk around Corries Edge and descend via Choir Chais…. The views back were fantastic if not a little spooky – somewhere in the table cloth mist was the Grey man!
- table cloth
Conditions had been perfect for him today but he did not make an appearance – or…. did he………- see for yourselves -check the end footage on the video – spooky…………………..
- sun
- skyline
- end