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When it comes to choosing the worst of the Wainwrights one fell always appears towards to top of the list, the infamously sodden swelling known as Armboth Fell. The fact it is even included is a bit of a mystery. I believe it was a joke at the expense of prospective hill baggers
by AW himself who even went so far as to say climbing it was a waste of time.
It is however on the list so must be bagged at some time. The only way to sensibly do this is wait for a drought or do it when the ground is frozen so the boggyness can be walked over.
For the final day before we drove home I decided Armboth and it’s cohorts in vile filthy boggery, High Tove and High Seat should be “got out of the way” on what was going to be another cold frosty day. As we made our way north, through Keswick and up the implausibly narrow road to Watendlath it was obvious far less snow had fallen in these parts. No doubt this was a good thing given the rough terrain that we’d be traversing in the coming hours.
If you’ve never been to Watendlath you should because it is a place of pure heavenly beauty, and on this fine frosty morn it’s hard to think of anywhere finer to be. The path up onto the moors is excellent; zig zagging up the steep hillside giving stunning views of a snow covered Great Gable above Watendlath tarn. Some reforestation work is underway on the slopes and indeed I’m all for such schemes, but it will be a shame when the view is obstructed. At the top of the path the flatter moorland stretches up at a gentle gradient and is fortunately frozen bone hard. There was not too much in the way of snow and ice and given the gentle slopes the microspikes are not required.
Watendlath by
johnkaysleftleg, on Flickr
Across to the Gables by
johnkaysleftleg, on Flickr
Ullscarf by
johnkaysleftleg, on Flickr
The top of High Tove is reached with the fine prospect of a snow plastered Hellvelyn ridge coming into view. High Tove is a somewhat underwhelming top that is actually used as a pass on the path to Thirlmere due to it being moderately drier than the surrounding ground. Over to our right, dark and uninviting, lies Armboth, a fell that isn’t really a fell named after a place that no longer exists. Given the largely frozen terrain we set off across the rough heathery ground almost directly towards our destination and apart from the occasional bit of deeper snow it’s not bad going as we are heading vaguely downhill.
Grace on High Tove by
johnkaysleftleg, on Flickr
Eventually a larger patch of snow is reached, a bit to far to jump over and I realise it’s a snow covered Fisher Beck. A few tentative prods with the stick and the sight of Hughie dancing around on the top gives me the confidence to venture across and I slowly make the few careful strides to the other side. Or at least that was the plan until my right foot plunges through the snow and I feel my boot filling with icy cold water before I can gain enough purchase to haul myself out.
Fortunately Grace and Nicola, oblivious to the danger wander over the beck without a care in the world and we make our way to the rocky torr that, according to OS Maps is the high point of the “fell”. I vainly attempt to dry off my liner sock as we elect to have lunch. Once you get here it’s not too bad with light winds, sunshine and great views of Hellvelyn. I can only imagine on a wet day hauling yourself up here is akin to dragging yourself onto an island if you’ve fell in the sea.
Final pull up to armboth by
johnkaysleftleg, on Flickr
We claim this Island.... by
johnkaysleftleg, on Flickr
Armboth Fell by
johnkaysleftleg, on Flickr
Grace on Armboth by
johnkaysleftleg, on Flickr
Soon enough it’s time to put my freezing wet boot back on and head towards our high point of the day in the shape of the aptly named High Seat. It may be only one and a half miles to our next top but it proves to be a fairly dispiriting uphill trudge over rough partially snow covered ground that is starting to defrost a bit.
To perhaps demonstrate just how bleak this part of the Lakes is some truly unremarkable features have been awarded a mention on OS maps: an innocuous boundary marker is labelled the Eddy Grave Stake, a foul section of bog and peat hag is named “The Pewits” and most bizarrely the words “Threefooted Brandreth” are printed just to the North of High Seat Summit. I have seen suggestions that this refers to three iron fence posts sticking out of a bog, goodness knows why they are significant enough to mention on a map however.
Follow the fence by
johnkaysleftleg, on Flickr
The Pewits by
johnkaysleftleg, on Flickr
As recompense for the journey the destination is first class. For me High Seat provides one of the best viewpoints in the district with fantastic snow capped peeks in every direction.
High Seat Summit by
johnkaysleftleg, on Flickr
High Seat view West by
johnkaysleftleg, on Flickr(click on pic for large version)
Hellvelyn from High Seat by
johnkaysleftleg, on Flickr(click on pic for large version)
We couldn't find anywhere out of the wind but still had coffee and hot chocolate before setting off back along the fence to High Tove and the path back to Watendlath. A seemingly more direct boggy trod was ignored figuring better the devil you know since the ground was thawing and might hold some unpleasant surprises. There are so many better places to walk in the Lakes I don’t feel I could recommend these fells unless you’re attempting to complete the whole round. If you must, pick a day where the ground is frozen because I shudder to think just how bad they would be in the wet.
All in all a great Easter weekend however with some great weather and great walking. Three figures now within touching distance….