An alternative take on Beinn na Lap

[PeteR]

I’m going to break with the usual walk report convention for this trip and start off at the summit itself and work back from there. The reason for doing so will become apparent early on.

So, here’s the cairn shot, to get things started

Beinn na Lap summit shot

Despite the distinct lack of views I actually spent about 45 minutes on the summit itself, as the sun threatened to win the day. Alas, despite two or three attempts the murk and mist kept sweeping back in and it seemed to me thicker and meaner than it had been before.

It was now 2.45 in the afternoon and I knew I needed to get myself moving, as I still had a ways to go. Reluctantly I made my move to head back down

Cue the law of s*d

My route of descent was to be down the Sron na Cloiche Sgoilte, which had also been my route up this hill. I’d plotted a route up on the GPS, oblivious to any path that might actually exist up the ridge. In the thick murk I’d been enjoying on the route up I’d been relying on the plotted route on the GPS as I really couldn’t make any features out in front of me, let alone locate a path. As I was about to discover though, once the murk lifted, this is actually a very fine ridge, affording some excellent views on the hills round about

S*ds law actually kicked in about 10 to 15 minutes after having left the summit First came the sense that the sun might break through. Then eventually it did, although the mist was still in evidence for a while after.

Higher up the ridge I’d come upon a remnant of the long winter’s snow, still clinging to the side of the ridge. What remained of a probably decent cornice. I couldn’t resist the temptation to walk along it (safely of course ) as the snow steamed in the warming sun

Clearing views on the ridge route down

Loch Ossian

Back up the ridge and the snow what I walked down

Eventually the breaks in the clouds did get bigger and the heat of the sun stronger. Views were opening up all around me. Views I certainly hadn’t seen on the walk in, that’s for sure.

Summits near and far were increasing becoming cloud free, although the haziness continued to persist a bit. A look back up the ridge and oh yeah, now Beinn na Lap was cloud free too

A cloud and murk free Beinn na Lap summit

Loch na Lap and then across to Mullach Coire nan Nead. Loch Ghuilbinn and Strath Ossian looked increasingly impressive too If a little misty.

Loch na Lap

The view across to Chno Dearg, Meall Garbh and Coire nan Cnamh looked a lot crisper!!!!!

Chno Dearg

What had been a muggy day so far was now a scorching muggy day. Being decidedly “folically” challenged and having overlooked the possible need for sun block , with the sun now beating down on me I was getting toasted

If the walk up Sron na Cloiche Sgoilte had been a bit of a trudge in the murk of the morning then the walk down it that afternoon was simply a joy, as I was merrily clicking away with the camera

I’d located the traces of path too (which eventually became a faint landrover track further down), so that made things a bit easier

Across to the Rannoch Moor two

Loch Ghuilbinn and a hazy view toward the Ardverikie three

Loch na Lap again

Loch Ghuilbinn

Still water on Loch Ghuilbinn, with a'Chlachair behind

Rather than head off the nose of the ridge (quite a steep, but easy climb on the way up) I instead kept (loosely) to the landrover tracks and dropped down into Creagan Gorm and the Lethcheann Ruigh an Ime. All a bit boggy, but from here I made my way down the tracks alongside the Allt Ruigh an Ime and eventually to excellent estate track that heads into Stath Ossian and eventually Loch Ossian itself and then Corrour.

But, delightful as that neck of the woods is I’m sure, that wasn’t where I was headed. I’d decided some while ago that I didn’t want to have my conquering of Beinn na Lap dictated to me by a Scot Rail timetable. I had also wanted a route that gave me a complete sense of the isolation of Beinn na Lap, sitting as it does in the middle of nowhere

So I was heading a few hundred yards up the estate track in the opposite direction and then onto the decidedly boggy right of way between Corrour and Tulloch via the wonderfully hospitable and welcoming hamlet of Fersit.

On the walk in I couldn’t help but think I must have been off my rocker to choose this route. After the torrential rain of the day before the ground was sodden and boggy This had made for slow progress, as I’d navigated a path around the worst of it. And with no views to compensate

On the way back out though, with the sun turning my head into a bellesher beacon it was a completely different story. There were great views of Strath Ossian and Loch Ghuilbinn, Strathossian House as well as back toward Beinn na Lap.

Water tumbling over the Allt Feith Thuill

Study on a tree; a'Chlachair behind

Strathossian House in Strath Ossian

a'Chlachair's a cracker

Back toward Beinn na Lap

Then there was the ever expanding views to Mullach Coire nan Nead, Beinn Eibhinn and the whole of the Geal Charn group

The Geal Charn group

And let’s not forget the Ardverikie trio of Beinn a’Chlachair, another Geal Charn and little Creag Petrie

The superb Ardverikie trio

Viewing both ranges certainly brought back great memories of a couple of super walks Looking at the ridge of a’Chlachair and I struggled to believe that I had actually walked its full length

But it didn’t stop there. Hitting the high point of the track and it was time to eventually say goodbye to the giants of the Alder and Ardverikie forests and say hello to Meagaidh, Beinn a’Chaorain and the tiny Beinn Teallach. Just more great views that I hadn’t been able to see in the murk of earlier. They certainly aided the remainder of the long walk back

Meagaidh group

Beinn a’Chaorain and Beinn Teallach

By now the feet were sore and de-hydration was certainly a concern. I still had fluids, but was exercising care in how they were consumed. I probably had 3.5 miles to go, so decided to “floor it”. Thankfully it was all downhill The route takes a detour into the forest for a mile or so. Earlier in the day I had been struck by how oppressive this section had felt. As with all of the second half of this walk it was all very different second time round. The route through the trees passes by a DIY project that I’m pretty sure MrsR wouldn’t be keen on me to suggest

An exciting DIY project

Once out of the forest then I was almost back at the car (ok, it was still near enough 2 miles to go, but I was still enjoying my sprint finish, with the Stob Coire’s of Sgriodain and Mheadhoin grabbing my attention.

View ahead once out of the forest

An interesting stone feature

Stob Coire Mheadhoin

As much as this walk had eventually delivered everything I had hoped for I have to say it was some relief to arrive back at the car

So that was my Beinn na Lap adventure. Probably not a route you’ll find in any reputable hill walking guide book or website But would I recommend this route as an alternative to the more conventional approach? Well, if you’re insane like me and like the idea of a path less travelled then yes, on a nice sunny day I probably would

[MG1976]

Hi Peter, just been enjoying your report and the slew of pictures to go with it.
I really enjoyed this hill when I did it (the conventional route from Corour), after reading in several places about what a "bland" hill this is.
I say the hills are what you make them, and you certainly did that with this walk.

Thanks for sharing; an enjoyable read.

Martin

[weaselmaster]

You're right Pete - that is a pretty insane route to do BnL, but its also - as your photos demonstrate a pretty route. We did the hill from loch ghuilbinn at the end of our ben alder circuit + it was much more pleasurable than the straight route from corrour. I just love that area up there - thanks for posting

[rockhopper]

Jings There's the [very] odd occasion when I think that I do things the hard way....but this certainly takes the biscuit ! Definitely an interesting way to approach this hill, Pete - had to get the map out to follow you. Was good the way that it cleared up on Sunday after the foggy start - cheers

[Johnny Corbett]

Thats a long route, now it was because you love the walking and not because you're English and didn't want to pay the train fair? You had the same luck weather wise as we had on Sunday, cleared up after we left the summit I'm planning Beinn na Lap next Friday along with a Corbett if weather stays good, taking the train of course

[Fudgie]

Although I started and finished at Corrour when I did Beinn na Lap, I did it at the end of a loop and it's definitely much more interesting to attack it from that side. You seem to be developing a knack for getting toasted in that area

[SusieThePensioner]

Definitely a mad Englishman out in the midday (well, afternoon) sun
What a great day it turned into; some fantastic photos
I'm surprised you didn't run back up to the summit and get more photos from there

[ballarat]

a great report/walk from what once was my home territory,well done

[Collaciotach]

Aye that is different ..think I ll take the train

Good report though haha

[pigeon]

Geat stuff Pete,we done a smash n grab on the train for Beinn na Lap just before crimbo,terrible weather,seen nowt so promised ourselves another visit to the area on a good day,your route might be an idea Well done that man

[quoman]

Quality report Pete how many walks have we all had when you get to the top and its in the clag only to start the descent then you look round and the summit is in the clear , iam keeping BnL for my last and i will let the train take the strain

[PeteR]

Hi Peter, just been enjoying your report and the slew of pictures to go with it.
I really enjoyed this hill when I did it (the conventional route from Corour), after reading in several places about what a "bland" hill this is.
I say the hills are what you make them, and you certainly did that with this walk.

Thanks for sharing; an enjoyable read.

Martin

Thanks Martin. Totally agree with you that hills are what you make them. Beinn na Lap is far from a bland hill in my view

[PeteR]

You're right Pete - that is a pretty insane route to do BnL, but its also - as your photos demonstrate a pretty route. We did the hill from loch ghuilbinn at the end of our ben alder circuit + it was much more pleasurable than the straight route from corrour. I just love that area up there - thanks for posting

Thanks weaselmaster. Loch Ghuilbinn looked a great little loch - much better on the return for me given the murk of the route in. Looked pretty special in your snowy scenes too

[PeteR]

Jings There's the [very] odd occasion when I think that I do things the hard way....but this certainly takes the biscuit ! Definitely an interesting way to approach this hill, Pete - had to get the map out to follow you. Was good the way that it cleared up on Sunday after the foggy start - cheers

Cheers RH. Sometimes I think it's good to find alternative routes. Then other times I'm more than happy to keep to the baggers tracks. BnL is a fair trek for me, so just wanted to find a way of making a full day of it. Think I certainly managed that

[PeteR]

Thats a long route, now it was because you love the walking and not because you're English and didn't want to pay the train fair? You had the same luck weather wise as we had on Sunday, cleared up after we left the summit I'm planning Beinn na Lap next Friday along with a Corbett if weather stays good, taking the train of course

Thanks JC (I think ) Hope you managed to catch the train and get up and enjoy BnL.