Snowdon from Rhyd-Ddu

[poppiesrara]

Another glorious walking day, and a return to Wales’ highest via the less-trodden western paths.

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There are probably no routes up Snowdon without something to recommend them, but the Rhyd-Ddu Path is one of the best – beautifully pathed over what looks otherwise to be pretty damp terrain, and then rising relatively gently through increasingly dramatic surroundings to finish along a short sharp ridge. The views behind to the Nantlle/Hebog range are fabulous, and – midweek - you can get to within a few feet of the café and the crowds without seeing more than a handful of people. The last mile or so is fantastic along the narrowing Llechog and Bwlch Main ridges, almost like a coward’s Crib Goch – ground falling away steeply on both sides, into the deep bowl of Cwm Clogwyn and across to Y Lliwedd, but without (bar a few exposed yards that you might steer away from in a strong wind) too much sense of danger.

Snowdon from the Highland Railway station

Llyn Cwellyn between Mynydd Mawr & Moel Eilio

Nantlle valley

Mynydd Mawr

Llyn Coch & Llyn Glas from Llechog

Snowdon

Moel Cynghorion over Cwm Clogwyn

Yr Aran

Final ascent to Snowdon

Back along Bwlch Main

Looking down the Watkin Path to Llyn Llydaw

Bwlch Main & Llechog

I can’t get upset about the railway station and café on the summit – as long as it stays the only place with these things it almost adds to the character to see the steamer puffing up, and no-one can really hate their first fresh ice-cold beer on a mountaintop! - but they do mean that you’ll probably never get much peace up there. It probably isn’t worth the effort to battle through the crowds sitting with their picnics and accompanying seagulls to actually reach the trig more than once – I did it 25 years ago and may never again – but you haven’t got to step too far down the northern slopes to escape and admire the views over the lake scenery of the classic Horseshoe.

Y Lliwedd

Crib y Ddysgl, the Pyg Track looking deceptively precarious...

Crib Goch

Not far along the railway line before more quiet walking down the Snowdon Ranger Path. This is pretty easy going in descent, good underfoot and zigzagging comfortably enough over the steeper parts, even if it lacks the drama of the way up – it might be quite a dull trudge done the other way, once the lakes of the cwm slip out of view. There is a cross-country way from here back to Rhyd-Ddu (mapped above), but it isn’t really to be recommended – it’s rough going over some very marshy terrain (the only good walking being up and over the spoil-heaps of the old slate-mine) even now, and outside a dry spell several stretches might be completely impassable; head all the way down to the Snowdon Ranger and either catch a train or dodge along the road instead.

Descending the Snowdon Ranger towards Llyn Peris

Llechog behind Llyn Coch & Llyn Nadroedd

Llyn Ffynnon-y-Gwas

Snowdon & Cwm Clogwyn over Llyn Ffynnon-y-Gwas

Snowdon Ranger Path below Clogwyn Du'r Arddu

Starting on the cross-country return, towards Llyn y Gader & Moel Hebog range

Snowdon

Moel Eilio & Foel Goch from the old slate-mine

Llyn Cwellyn

Apart from the finish, a terrific walk though. Bar the Watkin Path upper screes, I’ve trodden all the main routes up and down Snowdon now and this is close to the best – perhaps the supreme day, with some transport help, would be up the Pyg Track (or, with guts and the right weather, Crib Goch instead) early morning before the crowds, and then down the Rhyd-Ddu Path with the views in front. Plenty might disagree though, there are a lot of choices...!

[johnkaysleftleg]

That looks a wonderful way to walk up Snowdon, amazingly dramatic scenery. Might well tempt me up the big'un next time I visit Wales.

[Miniowner]

Great report and pictures..my daughter (JillyBean) and i did Snowdon on June 20th by the Watkin Path..it was a great day weatherwise (although it rained just as we got into the cafe at the top but was off agin as we left )and apart from the pathless loose scree near the top it is pretty straightforward !! We descended by the same route as we were staying in camping pods just a few hundred yards from the path start point and didn't really fancy a trek miles along the road We took 3 hours 25 mins up and 2 hours 45 mins down..an amazing and thoroughly recommended walk

[Phil the Hill]

I've not been up Snowdon from that side since I was in the Scouts some 40 years ago now. I must do so again on the basis of your report. I think I must have done Rhyd-Ddu in clag, as I'm sure I'd remember that final ridge.

It's funny how the crowds all go up by the same route. I ran down the Llanberis path last August and the crowds were horrendous, but as soon as I diverted off-piste to bag Llechog I had the mountain to myself.

I still bag the summit trig whenever I go up Snowdon. Force of habit, I suppose!

[poppiesrara]

Cheers, all.

I'm not too sure why the Llanberis route is so much more busy either really, Phil (more parking?, the chance to take the train down?) - there are several other choices that are a fair bit shorter and not really much more difficult. Can't say I have a great memory of it, but I've also got Llechog (the little northern Nuttall) to 'bag', so will be back trying to find some Llanberis-based circuit with a little more charm one day...

[Phil the Hill]

I'm not too sure why the Llanberis route is so much more busy either really, Phil (more parking?, the chance to take the train down?) - there are several other choices that are a fair bit shorter and not really much more difficult. Can't say I have a great memory of it, but I've also got Llechog (the little northern Nuttall) to 'bag', so will be back trying to find some Llanberis-based circuit with a little more charm one day...

I think most "normal" people simply take the "tourist path" up the hill rather than poring over maps to find the most interesting route like users of this forum, which is a shame but at least it gives us a bit more solitude. The Llanberis path is also the most gentle ascent, which I assume a lot of people prefer. Personally I always prefer the steepest ascent in order to gain height quickly!

I don't think you can take the train down only. There would probably be a long queue of tired tourists waiting for a vacant seat if they allowed that!

Llechog is a really nice little hill so long as you stay by the cliff edge above the Pass of Llanberis and avoid the tourist path below. Perhaps doing it on a horseshoe route with the Moel Eilio ridge would be a good circuit.

[poppiesrara]

Cheers, Phil. That looks the best plan for Llechog (I loved the Moel Eilio hills), although the route under the cliffs to the foot of Cynghorion looks like it might be rough-enough going.

You could definitely just get the train down from Snowdon two or three years ago - a couple of my companions ascending (admittedly via Crib Goch) had had more than enough by then and coughed up the £20+ quid for the easy way out. I guess there are enough people riding up then walking down to balance it out - there have been times when I'd have happily paid just to climb a hill and spare my knees the downward bit though!