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My friend Arash is from Iran and hadn't climbed any Scottish hills. He drives articulated lorries so knows the lie of the land from road level but was keen to get off the beaten track. After a planned climb in Kintail was diverted by low cloud in the west to Ben Rinnes in the east he pronounced he wanted to climb some 'big boys' so we decided on Conival and Ben More Assynt.
I went for Rob and Mary first at 7.15 and picked up Arash 10 minutes later at the layby where he stashed his bike just before the Kessock Bridge. We had a pleasant drive up via Ullapool and parked in the car park by the Inchnadamph Hotel, crossed the river and turned right up the private road which passes the hostel. We crossed the Allt Poll an Droighinn on a concrete bridge and were soon at the pretty white holiday cottage of Glenbain which looked a fine place to stay. After passing a plantation on the left the path forks, with the right fork leading to the Traligill caves and the left one heading for the hills. The path keeps to the north side of Gleann Dubh which becomes narrower and steeper-sided as you go.
Arash works nights and had been driving all night with just an hour and a half of sleep, which is probably not the best preparation for climbing your first Munro. But when we stopped for a breather he tucked into his breakfast in good spirits!
Conival with a little wispy cloud on top
Looking back the way we came
Out of the breeze it was so warm there was a strong temptation to take a dip in the pools below the waterfalls but the clegs were out in force and looking for business so we weren't inclined to expose too much flesh - although they have been known to suck blood through fabric which is not a cheering thought!
Waterfalls on the Allt a' Choinne Mhill
The path climbs steeply keeping to the left side of the Allt a' Choinne Mhill, reaching a hanging valley with a rocky band at its head.
Half stewed but keeping legs well covered to deter the vampire clegs
As we approached the rocky band we expected a short scramble but the path wended its way up without the need for deploying hands. So for fun I went off the path to get a bit of hands on which is oddly satisfying in a looking-for-a-bit-of-variety kind of way. Once up this step you're on the bealach between Conival and Beinn an Fhurain and get your first long views of the day looking down the far side into Coire a'Mhadaidh with its lochan and the quartzite buttresses of Na Tuadhan. But the haze looking north meant the photos at this point are not as clear as the ones I got on the way back.
From the bealach the path turns south up the quartzite scree slopes to where the ridge becomes more defined and grassy as it nears the summit.
The east ridge which connects Conival to Ben More Assynt
His first Munro and loving it!
South African, English, Scottish and Iranian
Pink carpet of sea thrift thriving on summit
Loch Assynt from Conival's rocky summit
Looking south and the River Oykel
Dubh Loch More
Ridge of boulders and scree leading to Ben More Assynt
Speedy Arash is the speck on the sky line
His second Munro
On BMA's rocky summit - minutes later Arash was fast asleep on his lofty perch!
View from top into Coire a'Mhadaidh
Top was like a rocky fortress
There are two rocky points on BMA's summit and we visited them both just to be sure. We wondered if there was a way down that bypasses Conival but reckoned the quartzite scree would make for an awkward descent so returned by reclimbing Conival - meaning Arash has done his first Munro twice on the same day!
Zoomed to hills of Inverpolly
Beinn an Fhurain and north to Ben Hope on right of horizon
View west to Loch Assynt, Quinag and the Isle of Lewis
Descent off Conival
Going down the rocky band I stood to one side to let a young man overtake but he was in no desperate hurry so we got talking and discovered he used to work with someone I know. He walked at my geriatric pace for a while until he realised at that rate he was in danger of missing dinner in his B & B so sped off. I've been a few weeks in posting this Dr H but it was lovely to meet you and I hope the good folks of Saltcoats stay in good health!
Looking back at Conival in the late afternoon sun
Arash was a natural on the hill and enjoyed his first Munros but on the walk out his sleepless night began to tell and as we neared the car he said he would never do this again! But it was nothing a long cold drink wouldn't sort and by the time we were licking ice cream in Ullapool he had his old spark back again.
