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With the forecast set fair for a cracking Sunday I was up for another overnight drive to some far flung remote glen and an overnight kip in the car. The far flung remote glen of choice this weekend was Glen Dessary, with a walk into Glen Kingie and a Corbett/Munro combo of Sgurr an Fhuarain, Sgurr Mor and Sgurr Cos na Breachd-laoidh. It's certainly an “interesting” drive at night, along the long single track road that runs beside Loch Arkaig to the end of the public road
- Sgurr Thuilm from the start of the walk
As it was I was struggling very early on, and on reaching a rusting gate in an old fence at the base of the south ridge of the Corbett Fraoch Bheinn a combination of my distinct lack of energy, what can best be described as a wretched, boggy track to Tomdoun I was walking on, a 4.00 a.m. alarm call on the Monday morning to look forward to and the temptation to simply jack it in and head home, all led me to make a snap decision en route to scrap my plans and do something shorter and hopefully less purgatorial instead.
I initially thought I would do just the single Corbett of Fraoch Bheinn, but as it was I ended up adding on its neighbour Sgurr Mhurlagain as well. Despite the leaden legs and rubbish boggy ground my GPS suggested I managed a trip of over 11.5 miles on the day and plotting the route on the walkhighlands GPS planner suggested around 5,000 feet of ascent. Seems I probably could have completed my originally planned route after all had I stuck at it.
Making the decision to change my plans so early on was annoying. But I knew I wasn’t at the races, so saw no reason to push things. As it was Fraoch Bheinn, and its neighbour, gave a superb day
The route up Fraoch Bheinn was pathless, but involved some elements of picking my way through crags and over boulders, which I was enjoying.
- Starting the initial steep climb up Fraoch Bheinn
At this stage I wasn’t concerned with setting any sort of pace, so it was just a nice amble up through the rocks and crags of the south ridge. As a viewpoint it also afforded superb views back toward Gaor Bheinn, Braigh nan Uamhachan, Streap and the two tough Munros of Sgurr Thuilm and Sgurr nan Coireachan
- Streap and Sgurr Thuilm
- View down Loch Arkaig
- Sgurr Thuilm and Streap again
- The route up Fraoch Bheinn
As height was gained the Ben made an appearance, along with CMD and the big bulk of Aonach Mor
- The Ben
Despite being pathless the ascent of the south ridge of is actually pretty straightforward and very enjoyable
- Sgurr na h-Aide
- Into Glen Dessary and the hills to the south
- Gaor Bheinn, Streap et al
- Knoydart
My guide to the Corbetts suggested I should make my way across to the hill’s ridge to its north summit and there admire the crags on that part of the hill. Then I should return and make my way down via the route of ascent.
- Fraoch Bheinn north east ridge and the view to Gairich
Arriving at the north summit I was so taken with the view down the north east ridge I simply decided to go and have an “explore" and pick my way down the ridge from there
There were quite a few more craggy bits to navigate through than on the south ridge. It was all fairly straight forward though
I was still ambling along at this time, but with the sun out and warming my bonce I was feeling a whole lot better in myself. I’d probably say the walk along the summit and then down off the north ridge was the best bit of the day
Stunning views of my originally intended route ahead of me, which looked eminently more doable even in my lethargic state than I had convinced myself it was. I shall definitely return.
There were also great views to Gairich, Kinbreak bothy and into Glen Kingie.
I also had to get a few images back up the descent route……….just to panic MrsR
- Back toward the Fraoch Bheinn summit
- Some of the crags descended
Eventually I decided to drop down off the east side of the north east ridge and reacquaint myself with the wretched, boggy path back toward Glen Dessary.
- Fraoch Bheinn east ridge
- Sgurr Thuilm and Sgurr nan Coireachan from near the saddle between the two Corbbets
I’d been eyeing up Sgurr Mhurlagain from Fraoch Bheinn, and it didn’t look like too much extra effort from the high saddle between the two Corbetts
So 1 became 2.
The traipse over the boggy ground and up the west side of its south ridge wasn’t too bad, but once on it the ridge is a bit indistinct. And pathless. By now I was thinking more about my pace and so this section was a bit of a slog to get me to the top as soon as I could. More of a slog than I had bargained for really, but having started the hard bit I decided to finish it seeing as I was so close to the top.
The slog was worth it though, with more great views all round, especially down the length of Loch Arkaig, as well as a super view northwest toward Beinn Sgritheall
- Cloud glancing the summit of the Ben
- Sgurr na h-Aide
- View down Loch Arkaig
- Panoramic view back off Sgurr Mhurlagain
- Sgurr Mor
- Beinn Sgritheall
Met the only other walker all day on the summit. A chap over from Edinburgh out with his dug. Stopped and had a good chat with him for a few minutes, discussing the various hills in the area. I did get slightly concerned at one point when he suggested the crags and boulders on the side of Fraoch Bheinn would be a good place to hide a body if I ever committed a murder
I was thinking of asking at that point just how his good lady wife was……….but thought maybe not
I took a few minutes on my own on the top once the chap and his dug had headed down. I then descended down off the south ridge of the hill, taking it as far as I could before making a short detour back to the awful track. Once on that it was a simple case of slipping and sliding my way back down to the Glen Dessary track and back to the car.
- Back to Streap and pals again
- Strathan
- One final view
So what may have started out as a bad at the office certainly ended much better than I might have thought an hour or so into my walk. I was shot to bits for sure, but certainly glad to have stuck at it and got to enjoy two unsung little gems in amongst their bigger cousins
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