free to be able to rate and comment on reports (as well as access 1:25000 mapping).
These two Munros have been something of a nemesis to me over the past year. On three or maybe even four occasions during that time, I have arranged a date for a trip up to the banks of Loch Awe and an assault on the “hollow mountain” but for one reason or another, every proposed trip has had to be shelved. I had never actually set foot on the mountain though – it had never beaten me in that regard. Today, however, as I finally headed up through the mixed trees towards the mighty Cruachan dam, I could not help but wonder if conditions up there would conspire against me and I would fail to finally nail my nemesis, only this time at close quarters.
Myself and my two companions for this trip, Geri and Berenice, had spent the previous few days studying the weather forecasts, keeping a close eye on predicted avalanche conditions, debating the wisdom of the route and musing over other potential destinations for our proposed outing.
Berenice caught an early train from Dundee and I picked her up from Perth train station bright and breezy at 7.15 before heading for Geri’s house in Crieff. I had a collection of OS maps in the back of the car as even at this point, we were not entirely sure where we were headed. Geri was ready and raring to go by the time we pulled up outside her house just before 8 o’clock. It was quickly decided that we were going to stick to Plan A and head for Cruachan and Stob Diamh. I also had one eye on the Corbett, Beinn a’Bhuiridh, depending on time and stamina.
We made good time on the quiet roads and pulled into the little roadside parking area by the Falls of Cruachan train “station”in the Pass of Brander at 9.20. Ten minutes later we were fully kitted and tooled up and heading up the steps and under the railway, but not before two blokes who were setting off slightly before we were ready had asked us if we knew where the start of the walk was! Nothing like knowing where you’re going!
- The route starts HERE!
It’s a tough old start to this one on a steep, narrow, eroded and winding path through the scattered trees, and we were all soon puffing and panting and reaching for the water bottles. A few layers were also shed before crossing the stile and heading out onto the open moor.
The huge dam wall soon loomed into view ahead, and we picked up the tarmac service road which loops over the bridge and up to the left side of the huge concrete structure, where the James Bond style metal ladder provides access up onto the walkway across the dam. Seriously, I’m not stealing DJG78’s idea from his recent post about this ladder up the dam wall reminding him of a James Bond scene and imagining Roger Moore grappling with a crazed villain on the dam wall – one of the girls said the very same thing and they hadn’t even read that report!
- Berenice approaching the bridge and the dam
- The girls are dwarfed by the dam wall
- Where's the bad guy?
- Cruachan reservoir from the top of the dam wall
We head up onto the path which climbs and runs along the west side of the reservoir. At the cairn we turn sharp left and begin the ascent up into Coire Dearg. It’s real tough going up through here and several pit stops are required, but that’s no bad thing given the views which are opening up behind us over the end of the reservoir, Beinn a’Bhuiridh and beyond.
- Heading up Coire Dearg, Beinn a'Bhuiridh in the background
- Geri goes potholing in the snow!
As we approach the upper end of the coire and the bealach, I call a lunch stop and while we are at it, Berenice and I decide to don crampons. Voices up on the ridge leading across from Meall Cuanail alert us to the presence of other human activity and it looks like the two guys we’d spoken to back at the roadside. Geri didn’t have any crampons, but at least she had an axe and felt reasonably confident about proceeding with that alone, so much so that she decided to follow me up through the gully leading onto the south ridge of Cruachan. I had a careful look at it with the thought of avalanche at the back of my mind but I reckoned it was pretty stable stuff. Berenice on the other hand didn’t fancy this route, so she proceeded over the shoulder of the bealach and around behind the back of the crags at the top of the coire.
- Berenice is a mere speck on the snow as she heads over the bealach
- Up into blue sky gully
She was at the top of the gully to greet us onto the ridge, but not before we’d had a real ding-dong battle with some solid ice patches, some of which were sculpted into fantastic shapes, and even one which looked like a person could climb into it, curl up and have forty winks! Hats off to Geri for making it up sans crampons!
- Solid ice hole
- Finally onto the ridge - view back down through the gully
Once onto the ridge, the summit cone of Cruachan is in full view and before too long, the “Top” of Taynuilt Peak comes into view over to our left. At the summit there is precious little sign of a cairn or the stump of the trig point, obviously buried under multiple layers of compacted snow.
- Cruachan summit looms ahead
- View west from the summit, Taynuilt Peak in the background
The views are excellent up the length of Loch Etive to Ben Starav and beyond to Glencoe, to the Bridge of Orchy hills and Rannoch Moor, to the Ben Lui group and the Crianlarich hills, over to Mull and the full length of Lismore, and closer to home, along the ridge to Stob Diamh.
- Eastwards along the ridge to Stob Diamh
- The girls at the summit, Loch Etive and a cloud shrouded Ben Starav behind
After a second lunch break at the summit, Geri decides that the ridge may be a step too far without crampons and decides to head back to down to wait for us at the dam. Berenice and I set off along the ridge, with her leading the way while I faff around with my pack near the summit. Within seconds I hear her shout back to me that there are “ridge issues” and I hurry over to see what has caused such an expression of concern. There is a steep section of down steps which look like they are ice-encrusted rounded boulders with not very much but a pretty sheer drop on either side and a limited “landing” area. I jumped first and Berenice followed. She reckoned that she only managed it because there was no wind and because I was so calm about it (although I have to admit that calm is not exactly what I was feeling inside!).
- What d'you reckon MC? It doesn't look too bad in this shot!
- Berenice proceeds with extreme caution!
- Cruachan shows her best side
- Impressive wind blasted ice sculpture
- Above Coire Caorach
We can see a group ahead on the summit of Stob Diamh but other than that, it looks like we have the ridge to ourselves. The walk along the ridge is absolutely exhilarating, although some dark clouds are building away to the south. We pass three guys from the group we’d seen earlier on the summit of Stob Diamh and give them advance warning of the dodgy section just before they hit the summit of Cruachan.
- Drochaid Ghlas in the distance, black clouds building
After a short detour to the summit of Drochaid Ghlas, we soon reach Stob Diamh before turning south to head over the “Top” of Stob Garbh before descending down to the Lairig Torran.
- Stob Diamh summit looking west back along the ridge to Cruachan
- South from Stob Diamh over Stob Garbh and Beinn a' Bhuiridh
- Stob Diamh from Stob Garbh
- Slippery slope above the reservoir
It is about 4.15 when we reach the shoulder and have to make a decision about whether to go for the Corbett or not. To be honest, it looked like a steep, craggy old face, and with the sky a bit leaden looking above, we regrettably decided to give it a miss. If it had been an hour earlier we’d probably have gone for it.
We remove the crampons as we reach the snow line but a bit further on, just before we reach the shore of the reservoir, we hit a big patch of very deep drift and it isn’t long before I go arse over nipple as I go knee deep and my forward momentum and the weight of my pack sends me sprawling. Before we reach the shore we both get stuck waist deep in the drift and have to be hauled out using brute force.
The trudge along the shore is a fairly tedious slog and it is with some relief that we reach the dam wall and pick up the road which loops around to the right to pick up the ascent path back to the car.
There is no sign of Geri at the dam and a quick call confirms that she has headed back to the car.
Berenice and I are back to the car on the stroke of 6, making it a 8½ hour day.
All in all another epic day in an epic winter in the Scottish Highlands nicely rounded off with a pint in the Munro Inn in Strathyre where Berenice was dropped off to meet a friend.