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Some high pressure, low winds and favourable odds of clear summits were enough for me to pack up and get into Knoydart. It was long time since I had carried a heavy pack, it was into the Mamores for a very exposed session, full respect to all who undertake this on a regular basis.
Anyway I arrived at the west end of loch Cuaich after stopping to take a snapshot across to Sgurr Mhor..
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scottishkennyg, on Flickr
and parked at the side of the road with a preloaded GPX route around the loch side and eventually up to Luinne Bheinn via lochan nan Breac. I got ready and then changed my mind as I noticed that the sun would be on my face and back for hours.
So it was off to the car park at the road end to follow the tourist path in alongside Kinloch Hourn with the shade of the cliffs. I set off at 1130 and arrived at Barrisdale bay about 3.5 hours later. The views along the calm waters edge were excellent and more than compensated for the punishing stony path. A view ahead from Skiary..
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Someone getting a lift in...
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scottishkennyg, on Flickr
view across to glensheil ridge..
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scottishkennyg, on Flickr
Ahead..
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scottishkennyg, on Flickr
A view of the boathouse and wee islands near to bay..
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scottishkennyg, on Flickr
First real view of the mighty Ladhair Bheinn..
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scottishkennyg, on Flickr
Descending to the wee road leading in to Barrisdale..
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scottishkennyg, on Flickr
A view over the sandy bay up to LB
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scottishkennyg, on Flickr
I could hear the generator noise well before I saw the amenity unit and bothy. A hungry dog barked and had a good sniff as I wandered passed. There was only one lonely blue tent pitched on site.
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I meandered down to the river side to cool the warm feet and contemplate the next move. A view over to Sgritheall..
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As I sat under the tree a large bird appeared in the clear blue sky and soared above. I wondered if it was a sea eagle. Impressive anyway.
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I opted to continue on up the path to the pass mam Barrisdale to seek a camp site there as it seemed like a sound base at 450m. The climb up on tired legs and warm spring sunshine was hard for me but I got there just before 5.
I considered carrying the pack up Luinne Bheinn and along the ridge to Meall Buidhe with a view to camping when the legs gave up, so long as I could get a sunset.
I opted to travel light. I stashed the rucksack to headed up the NNW ridge to LB and MB with an optimistic aim of returning to the pass before dark.
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scottishkennyg, on Flickr
A view over to last weeks hills Surr na Ciche..
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scottishkennyg, on Flickr
A look across the ridge to Meall Buidhe..
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scottishkennyg, on Flickr
A nice path contoured the flank before rising steeply to the summit ridge and two cairns at 1800. The views were awesome.
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scottishkennyg, on Flickr
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scottishkennyg, on Flickr
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scottishkennyg, on Flickr
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scottishkennyg, on Flickr
I refuelled with another lightweight cardboard biscuit then set off down to catch the ridge. I donated a lot of height to reach the col before continuing along the ridge.
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scottishkennyg, on Flickr
There were many ups and downs and I passed several places that might have offered a good camp site. The views across to Sgurr na Ciche and over to Skye were uplifting.
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scottishkennyg, on Flickr
As I neared the final hands on section of the ridge I heard some voices from above. A spiritual moment on good Friday..no, just two other walkers on the summit ridge. I snapped a nice action photograph as they walked along the ridge.
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I headed up the final section and met the two fellow walkers. We chatted before heading off in opposite directions. I reached the summit ridge and wandered over to the western cairn to enjoy the start of the sunset at 2000. There were wonderful views all around with some weird colours.
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scottishkennyg, on Flickr
West
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Sun heading down..
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Back to Glendessary..
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I still had a fair bit to travel to get back to the pass and did not relish a descent in darkness so it was all too soon time to go.
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A rapid descent and some skirting with rocks took me across to finally arrive at the pass just after 2100. I picked up the heavy pack and sourced a flat and spongy spot overlooking the pass and behind a wee mound. This would allow me to enjoy the sunrise and provide a good start for the morning.
It was time to erect the new wee tent in earnest. I could not find the hole to put the pole in..lol.
I was cursing a wee bit now in the dark, my knees were sodden and the temperature was dropping. I put on the bright head torch and faffed around some more. Eventually I decided to push it in through two fabric loops and that would do. At last I had something to sleep in.
I opened the new self- inflating mat..aye right, I had to blow it up. The pillow…waste of time and the three season sleeping bag ..haha, I would have needed to swathe the bag with a quilt with a 13.5 tog rating and buy in some company to have kept warm.
Anyway I was in the des res and noticed that there was very little room to sit up to savour my dinner of biscuits, crisps and two sandwiches washed down with two miniature malts. So I lay down and listened to the grass breath as I waited for the tent to change colour confirming daybreak.
Day 2..Sunrise..
At 0600 I was out in the fresh air to enjoy the sandwich and the sunrise. What a beautiful spot I had inadvertently chosen. The sun broke through promising warmth and the skies were clear.
Camp site...the tent is meant to be hooped...not ridged..
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scottishkennyg, on Flickr
Sun coming through..
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scottishkennyg, on Flickr
I left the gear and set off about 630 am to catch the ridge to Ladhar Bheinn. The walk along the ridge was quite tiring with many ups and downs and some wee scrambles.
First view along main ridge..
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The sky was clear blue and the views around Knoydart were amazing. View from 849m
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I passed an older gent who was descending with a full pack, fair play and well done my man. I climbed onto the summit ridge and visited each of the three peaks.
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The middle one was the true summit which I reached just after 0915. I was well impressed by the stone shape sticking out of the trig point on the final peak.
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scottishkennyg, on Flickr
I took plenty of images and soaked up the atmosphere.
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scottishkennyg, on Flickr
down to kinlochhourn..
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scottishkennyg, on Flickr
A final view back up to summit..
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scottishkennyg, on Flickr
A view from small cairn to Luinne Bheinn on Left and MB on right..
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scottishkennyg, on Flickr
Back toward main ridge to summit..
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scottishkennyg, on Flickr
I returned to the tent and packed everything up then walked back down to Barrisdale for a well-earned foot bath in the river. The campsite was busier now and more people were arriving.
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I had some more cardboard biscuits, crisps then two slices of caramel shortbread. I set off for the return leg to the car snapping many more images.
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scottishkennyg, on Flickr
At the last turn I stopped to observe the big bird again soaring around the cliffs. Hopefully I managed to capture this flight on the wee gopro. A final look over the bay as a couple enjoy the romantic location..
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Then it was time to depart, so headed off with weary legs along the shores of Kinlochhourn passing meeting many other keen walkers heading into enjoy Khoydart.
I returned to car, about 1700 and dumped the gear in the boot and set off for the last leg home. Stopping for one more image..
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scottishkennyg, on Flickr
What a superb couple of days, hopefully the gopro will download and I can get a nice wee video of the trip, but failing that I have over 200 images with not one angry cloud in them. Hope you enjoy the ones above..
The Knoydart Tee shirt is in the bag and on my next visit I may try the ferry route to allow an opportunity for hot food, medicinal beverage and some craic at the Forge Inn.
And I have even sussed where the pole goes!!