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A beautiful and interesting walk around the backwaters of Snowdonia.
Having expected this area to be deserted, even on an Easter weekend, there were actually a few cars at the road end near Coed Mawr and a couple of big groups visible in the distance heading up the bridleway west. No-one was taking quite this route, but then it does need a bit of pathless – if easy enough – grassbashing to gain a foothold on the long ridge of Yr Arddu. A good perspective of the Snowdon horseshoe and Moel Siabod, seen in full profile to the north, fill the eye for these miles, but the ridge makes for very interesting walking anyway – a constant succession of little rocky peaks and tiny pools amid the heather and a tangle of half-paths. I’d been up on Haystacks in the Lakes a few days before, and the walk along here and over the succession of summits of Ysgafell Wen must be Wales’ closest thing to that - without the crowds too…
- Yr Arddu from the road-end
- Allt-Fawr & Moel Druman on the skyline
- Snowdon
- Llyn Edno with Yr Aran right
- On Ysgafell Wen's north ridge - one of Llynnau'r Cwn below
- The highest of of Llynnau'r Cwn
- Moel Siabod from Ysgafell Wen
- The Moelwyns from Ysgafell Wen summit
Turning east over the tops of Moel Druman and Allt-Fawr, the going becomes grassier and quicker but no less attractive, the ridge lined by wide blue llyns in the sunshine, and the high Moelwyns and Cnicht rising temptingly close by. Allt-Fawr – this circuit’s highpoint at 698m has a fine summit of jagged rocky teeth, but also a startling sudden view of the vast Ffestiniog slate quarries climbing the hillsides opposite.
- Llyn Terfyn
- Back to Ysgafell Wen
- Cnicht
- Moelwyns from Moel Druman
- Llyn Conglog
- Pool on ridge between Moel Druman & Allt-Fawr
- Ysgafell Wen & Snowdon
- Moel Druman
- Cnicht & Moel Druman over Llyn Conglog, from Allt-Fawr
- Allt-Fawr summit
- Blaenau Ffestiniog quarries and Manod Mawr from Allt-Fawr
The descent north is easy if occasionally steep going over grassy subtops onto a circuitous quarry track back into the lovely valley. It’s also marked at first by the recent scars of industry (the sad little dammed llyn below Iwerddon and some rather prominent power-lines) but it’s a damn sight better than the way down the last time I climbed these hills a few years back: descending directly from Ysgafell Wen to the headwaters of the Afon Lledr and following the river into the valley is probably the wettest stretch of walking imaginable, a long, long slog of waist-high reeds hiding knee-deep watery marsh… This however was a terrific circuit of little-visited hills, very highly recommended.
- Descending to Iwerddon, the Crimea Pass far below
- Moel Dyrnogydd and its Llyn, Moel Siabod behind
- Close-up of the way down from Ysgafell Wen to be avoided, the upper Afon Lledr
- Mine ruins in Cwm Lledr, Yr Arddu ridge behind
- Moel Siabod