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I had been reading with great interest in recent posts on these hills, the bog, long walk in (and out), boring etc. No hill is boring, each has its character, unique, created by forces which we cannot begin to comprehend.
The times quoted for each of these pairs are lengthy, in no small measure due to their distance from civilisation. But that provides for wilderness, less trodden, solitude away from the crowds.
I therefore set about pouring over the map, these four would make a nice round, they are after all, close enough together. My route would take me in the usual way from Inverey to Carn Bhac and onto Beinn Iutharn Mhor. Thereafter, some wild walking as many would se these two as the day, but this time of year, shortly after the summer solstice the days are long and we must make the most of them.
From Beinn Iutharn Mhor I would head in more or less a straight line to Carn an Righ, some considerable descent and renascent, followed closely by the same in good measure to Glas Tulaichean. Descent of the NE spur of Glas Tulaichean around the north edge of Loch nan Eun and skirting the slopes of Beinn lutharn Bheag down to the Allt Cac Dubh back to the Altanour Lodge.
This route would involve some rough ground and in the back of my mind the reports of so much bog.
Now I’m not a ‘purist’ as such, the use of a bike for these ‘walk ins’ was certainly not a no no. But my biking experiences along such ’tracks’ has not been frequent or pleasurable, but to facilitate sufficient mountain time, needs must. The padded cycling shorts came out of retirement.
So, looking like something between a cross between a Tour de France and Mountain man, I set off from Inverey at 0645 and within a short space of time was pushing the bike up the slopes of the first part of this ‘flat’ track. The benefit was soon realised as a descent followed but I soon came to realise why I just don’t get on with this biking malarkey. Now I don’t know if my backside is just the wrong shape, the retired cycling shorts have lost some of their padding or I need a new saddle…or all three, but hitting the stony sections I felt like an old steam locomotive, the sort with a tender behind.
I longed for tarmac, what was I thinking, a day in the wilderness and I wanted road jeez !!!
The Lodge didn’t come soon enough, but I was there within the hour, a distance of about 6 miles, so I guess it paid off. So relieved to be out of saddle I nearly marched off with the aforementioned cycling shorts still on.
The cycle/walk in passed with nature providing the show, Curlews, Lapwings, some clearly not impressed by my presence, but a delight to see, along with the clear waters of the Ey burn for company.
On one of my recent trips into the larger of the Cairngorms I nearly stubbled on many a Ptarmigan clutch, hiding, so still, today the turn of the Grouse. I took a quick pic and left them in peace, they never moved.
Carm Bhac isn’t visible from the start, and a couple of showers blew through. I encountered none of the bog that had been written about, my line of ascent diagonally up the initial slopes passing below some rock patches, until a bee line could be made for the summit, which came and went into view. This view back to my start point.
The last section steepens but passed surprisingly quickly, views came and went as the cloud blew through but it was no longer raining as I headed off to Beinn Iutharn Mhor, some snow patches still holding on.
Beinn Iutharn Mhor looms ahead. The ground comfortably soft on the feet across this section, I made good progress, aiming to the right in the next pic, to avoid the peat hags.
The terrain was good across the whole section, the peat hags dry enough to walk across and soon I was on the first of my three steep ascents. Pic taken half way up, but the sun was now out.
Views vary on steep ascents. Personally I find they pass quickly, the mind focused on the task, picking off small chunks and invariably the summit is reached almost by surprise.
Now a short stroll across the fine summit ridge to the cairn.
The views from Beinn Iutharn Mhor were stunning.
My eyes drawn to my next target Carn an Righ also holding some snow.
I had some lunch before setting off to Carn an Righ, a considerable descent was on the cards again and some ascent to gain this beauty, my line of ascent up the green line between the scree below the snow field.
No paths to follow now, but good going on the grass and heather slopes made for good progress. Down we go.
The first part of the ascent was through some thick heather, but soon I was out of it and onto more grassy slopes level with the snowfield and views across to Glas Tulaichean. The sense of solitude was great, I was a long way from anywhere and hadn’t seen another soul.
In no time I was at the summit of Carn an Righ, views all around but this one caught my eye. The map had to come out to identify it, it was Beinn a Ghlo ! I love picking out the hills I have been up, although this one was still to do, but I was amazed how they all link together like some giant jigsaw. Here I was having ascended from near Braemar, viewing a range usually ascended from Blair Atholl…wow !
What had started as a slightly damp day was swiftly becoming a gem. A we dram was taken on the summit of Carn an Righ, for it was my 200th Munro. No celebrations, just a toast to myself, by myself. I was feeling good, happy in myself, who couldn’t be in such a wilderness.
Onto Glas Tulaichean, which quickly became much larger, filling the view as I descended. The final long descent and renascent.
Ascent on steep grass to join the track that comes in from its western spur and onto the summit. The views got better.
Carn an Righ close by.
The unmistakable Cairngorms, Lairig Ghru and Devils Point.
The instantly recognisable Beinn Mheadhoin (Vayan ! Mh pronounced V….I know stuff) with its superb Tors.
Zoom shot of the Ghru, Devils Point and Cairn Toul standing tall.
Glas Tulaichean provided vistas in all directions, a magnificent viewpoint and I spent a good while soaking it all in, a truly wonderful wild landscape, but I had to leave.
Descending the NE spur towards Loch nan Eun, the corrie of Glas Choire Mhor providing a feast for the eyes.
My target lochan comes into view, my route taking me around its northern side and through the gap to the left behind.
The cotton grass now in bloom in the small pools, with views east.
I near the Lochan, again no bogs and comfy terrain. An Socach providing the backdrop.
A high level path exists in patches around the Lochan, a bit sketchy, but once on the line it can be followed. This was probably the roughest section although I was soon around the corner and descended to the Allt Cac Dubh which I followed out. A delightful burn, path across meadows or grass and heather.
In no time the trees indicating the location of the Altanour Lodge came into sight and the thoughts of my bike ride out wiped my smile.
I had a late food stop before donning the, not so padded, cycling shorts, packed and began the ride out. Despite my concerns the bike came into its own going out, clearly more downhill (obviously I hear you say), with less walking and in 40 minutes I was back at Inverey. Maybe the days walk had loosened the legs for cycling.
I know these hills don’t always get a good write up, mention of bog, boring etc. but I can truly say I would return. It would have to be for the full four, it makes an epic round on a good day even if you have done a couple already, but I guess that depends on whether your just bagging or you enjoy a day of solitude in a stunning wilderness. The latter for me.
Including the bike ride in and out it took me 10 and a half hours, but nowhere did it feel too much, the long drops between these hills only serving to provide a sense of satisfaction, in that you can achieve great days, off the beaten track.
So go for it, dont just be content, plan your own routes, your own destiny into these magnificent hills and you too can be happy in yourself.