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Sometimes a hill (or a group of hills in this case) will leap out at me when I'm not really expecting it and demand to be climbed – on Easter Sunday this year Beinn Dearg and friends did precisely that. We were walking up Am Faochagach on a beautiful morning, as we got higher mountain after mountain appeared over the rounded shoulders of Am Faochagach, Beinn Dearg, Cona Mheall and Meall nan Ceapraichean looked so appealing … who could resist ...
Originally I thought we could walk the four in 2 goes, perhaps including Seana Bhraigh with Eididh nan Clach Geala to complete the 5 just south of Ullapool, but after a couple of long walks this summer we decided to go for the 4 munro circuit, after all it would be easy enough to shorten the walk if it was proving too much of a challenge. So with an MWIS forecast of virtual certainty of cloud free munros in the north west we set off.
The walk in from Inverlael and into Gleann na Sguaib is very gentle and long - although I only realised how long on the way out – on the way it it was a doddle, easy path and good views.
Start of the walk
Two of our goals
Back to Inverlael
About 2km into the walk I realised my walking poles were still in the car – no way was I going back for them –
. From the photos I've seen I here I know this walk had some steep bits – och weeelll the knees would just have to manage under their own steam
.
As we gained height we crossed a couple of burns, which were very low but which could be a challenge in spate, there was also a lovely stepped waterfall on our left.
As we entered Coire Mathair Lathail the cliffs on either side created a terrific atmosphere – very majestic, a quick pull up to Lochan Lathail and wonderful views to the west.
Then up to Bealach an Lochain Uaine where An Teallach came into view. Long pause here to take more photos and refuel, then off up Beinn Dearg.
The destitution wall, or famine wall, dominates this part of the walk. It's a sombre monument to the harshness of the environment and the determination of the crofters who built it in the 1840s in exchange for food.
It certainly dominates the immediate landscape on the pull up to Beinn Dearg summit. As we approached it a black animal suddenly leapt over it from the far side, what creature was this? – some strange local wildlife?
On a second look, naw, it was just Bertie returning from a private reccie – but he did give me a start
The pull up the boulders by the side of the wall was probably easier without poles, but I wasn't looking forward to the descent – it was fairly steep. Still the views were magnificent ...
Going up and looking west
The summit was reached, more food and more photos.
Seana Bhraigh with Ben Klibreck on the right
An Teallach
The Torridons
Ben Wyvis and Am Faochagach
The descent wasn't as bad as I'd expected – without poles I had to balance more carefully, but it was easier than trying to find stable positions for the poles, so lesson for the future is to stow the poles in some circumstances. On the way down Bertie found an opportunity to spook another walker … at the bealach we met 2 others heading up Beinn Dearg. We headed over the wall again and off to Cona Mheall, past the beautiful Choire Ghranda.
Choire Ghranda
Cona Mheall
We kept well to the right and went up the easy grassy slopes, avoiding the boulder field, before turning left to head for the cairn. There were some useful way marker cairns to help us find the same route back down.
Beinn Dearg from the slopes of Cona Mheall
Anyone seen a cairn?
At the top it was time for a second lunch,
then out with the camera for shots of Assynt,
Seana Bhraigh
(another long summer walk for this year????)
Loch Glascarnoch
and what I think is a hanging valley (or should that be a hanging glen) just to the north east of Cona Mheall.
The photos show Loch Prille (at the eastern end of the hanging valley) draining down into Loch na Still.
Then we were off back to Bealach an Lochain Uaine arriving there about 3:30, four hours after we first got there! At this point we worked out how far we'd have to walk to complete the 4 munros compared with finishing at this point. There seemed only to be mile, mile and a half difference in the routes and as Meall nan Ceapraichean was almost close enough to touch we set off to finish the job.
Waiting for the photographer
Meall nan Ceapraichean was a gentle ascent and provided a great view point
Beinn Dearg and the famine wall
– but where were the views of the Assynt hills – hidden behind smoke – the wind was blowing the smoke from a forest fire to the west of Beinn Ghobhlach north into Assynt – all that walking a just hazy view of the hills …
Smoky summer isles
Then off again for the final hill of the day. By this time Biggles and Bertie were taking any opportunity they could for a rest – no racing around while we munched cereal bars – when we rested they rested.
We had been concerned about water for them on this route, so we were carrying extra water, but despite the dry summer they were able to find plenty, we only had to supplement their natural supplies a couple of times.
The route between Meall nan Ceapraichean and Eididh nan Clach Geala was easy to start with, but soon care is needed to negotiate the boulder fields and avoid the crags on the north side of Ceann Garbh. We followed a gradual descent line east and found a good route down – and eventually joined up with a path near the bealach, but this could be tricky in clag and I appreciate why some people do this round the opposite way.
Route off Ceann Garbh
We chose a short and steepish route up Eididh nan Clach Geala, having lost the path again. We visited both cairns on the top, but reckon the northern one is highest. Then, yes you've guessed – more photos – more food – more resting. Then the final walk out, that long walk out.
Assynt hills
Seana Bhraigh
Boulder fields - Beinn Dearg from Eididh nan Clach Geala
We took a line off the hill that met up with the stalkers' path from Loch a Chnapaich further to the east than the WH walk description suggests – it was probably faster, but needs care to avoid the crags, then we were on good paths back to Inverlael.
Meeting of the paths - from Eididh nan Clach Geala (left) and Beinn Dearg (right)
Back to Inverlael
Even the dogs thought it was a long walk, and Biggles got decidedly grumpy when a couple of miles before we reach the car he stood on something sharp and hurt his paw (its taken him all week and a lot of biccies to forgive us).
Just over 12 hours after we stared we were back at the car – pretty slow, but then the following day I realised I'd taken over 80 photos in the course of walking this quartet.
(... and my knees without the poles - sore the next day, but then fine
)
