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A combination of family coming to stay and a new grandchild (for me), cooking for a kids' camp and helping with a holiday club (for Moira) and being away (both of us) has meant we've not had much chance to get into the hills together lately. But at last a free day came up before the next few weeks of commitments and since it looked like being a scorcher we decided on something not too demanding so we could have a good catch up.
I'd been looking at the Aonachs, wondering if there was a way to avoid the steep descent and soggy return to Glen Nevis that folk complain about, and it struck me that using the gondola would avoid both and would be a shorter walk and drive as well. When I suggested it to Moira her intial response was it would be 'cheating' until I pointed out we haven't used boats or bikes to approach hills (which others do) and we weren't going to be lying about how we got our ticks. So for anyone else tempted to save some time and effort courtesy of the Aonach Mor gondola here's how we did it.
Aonach Mor from Commando Monument
The ticket for us was £10.25 and as far as we were concerned it was money well spent, especially in the late afternoon heat of a day when our greatest risk was probably dehydration and sunstroke.
From the gondola station we had the option of climbing straight up to the ridge alongside a ski tow or following a path west for a bit before heading up the slope in less brutal fashion. We chose the less direct approach but under the blazing sun either way was going to be energy-sapping and we were relieved to reach the ridge. It was much easier on the descent but you can't exactly romp down as the ground is lumpy with hidden holes, and there were parts I imagine must be mogul fields under snow.
It's steeper than it looks!
Fort William from ski slopes minus the snow
View south from ridge
Eastern cliffs of Aonach Mor
First sighting of Ben Nevis and three men dangling from a post (they seemed to know what they were doing)
I've always thought of Aonach Mor as a a massive green lump (or the one time I skied there, a massive white lump) but climbing it this way shows off its craggy side and character in a way I'm not sure the tradional approach does to quite the same extent?
Craggy east side
Wedge of snow in eastern gully (M's pic)
The Grey Corries
Mamores (M's pic)
Carn Mor Dearg with Ben Nevis behind
Loch Eil to the west
Aonach Mor summit (M's pic)
The path between the Aonachs is a joy. The descent off Aonach Mor is on an easy path down grassy slopes to a small col before a steeper more rocky ascent.
Heading south for Aonach Beag
The cliffs and col
Looking back to Aonach Mor
Aonach Beag summit
Ring of Steall from Aonach Beag
Grey Corries from Aonach Beag
Ben Nevis from Aonach Beag
The views all round were superb but our eyes were constantly drawn to the Ben and her henchman. We sat and had a leisurely lunch on the summit of Aonach Beag and watched stick people on Carn Mor Dearg - tiny bristles at the summit then in a procession making their way down to the arete. And gazing at the highest point in the land I remembered almost six years ago to the day being there with Moira and the dogs, on a similarly gorgeous day raising funds for Labrador Rescue and being entertained by cellos while we did it. So much has happened since then and we had a good reminisce while we sat.
Here's the money shot from Moira
We saw one other person going up the way we did and several using the Glen Nevis approach. Having done it we would say don't knock the north approach (you don't have to use the gondola!) and if you have two vehicles consider starting at Glen Nevis and heading for the ski car park to give the full flavour of the amazing Aonachs.
