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Day two of my holiday.
Last year I failed to reach Ben Nevis twice in one day, first via the Carn Mor Dearg arête, then via the tourist path. Admittedly, the second attempt was a tad unrealistic (though valiant) given a self-imposed curfew and self-inflicted lack of sustenance. I had taken away two things from that trip. One: do not forget to eat. Two: do not go up from the CIC hut again.
http://www.walkhighlands.co.uk/Forum/viewtopic.php?f=9&t=41537So, today was the day to redeem myself and the weather was much better for it. Hurrah! I parked at the North Face car park at Torlundy. There were two other cars, but I had no illusions that it was going to be a quiet day. The route to the Allt a’ Mhuilinn is very well signposted, the path is in excellent condition and the woodland is very pretty. There are some strategically placed benches, so one can leisurely enjoy the views towards Loch Eil and beyond. I’m sure I could have spend a few pleasant hours just wandering in the wood, where it not for today’s mission. I must return another time.
- Lovely woodland walk
- View over Loch Linnhe
Nearly out of the wood, this was the view!
- First glimpse of the Ben
I wasn’t worried about the cloud, the sun would most likely burn it off. It was going to be a good day!
Past the stile the path continued to be in good condition. Just as I was wondering when would be an opportune moment to leave the path, I spotted a small cairn and a faint trail striking off to the left. It was a bit boggy, but the path does improve higher up. When I looked back for the views, whilst munching a snack, 4 groups of other walkers had appeared. Two had followed me, two continued along the Allt a’ Mhuilinn. And someone was already coming down the hill, at 10.30am! I had a chat with the guy when our paths crossed. He had slept on the CMD arête to watch the sun rise! On a stretch of the bypass path which was of sleeping mat width! He confessed that he hadn’t slept that well….
- Ascent off the beaten track
Onwards. Once away from the bog the path kept to the west of the ridge, clinging to the slope, then zigzagging across scree more directly to Carn Dearg Meadhonach. This route isn’t a freewheeling alternative to the one from the CIC hut. It’s still a slog but a much more pleasant one, helped by the great views towards Ben Nevis!
- Ben Nevis!
- Stony ascent up the flanks
From Carn Dearg Meadhonach the hard work was over. This was familiar territory. I recognised its east ridge, but without last year’s mist it looked much less convincingly like the back of a giant Stegosaurus. Only a short walk to Carn Mor Dearg. Anticipation building. Drum rolls. Trumpets. Ta da!
- The arete!
Of course the arête and Ben Nevis stole the show, but the views towards the Aonachs and the Mamores were equally great.
- The east Mamores
A few sandwiches, a chat with the other walkers on the summit and let the fun begin.
- Fun, fun, fun!
First slowly and carefully, but soon faster and more confidently I made my way down to the arête. And before I knew it I was hopping from rock to rock, surprised at my sure-footedness. Every year I’m intrigued by this phenomenon of ‘ongoing conditioning whilst absent from the hills’: for 50 weeks per year I’m not out walking in the hills on rough terrain, yet the moment I set foot on one, it feels like yesterday and I seem to have become better at it.
- Others having fun too!
The CMD arête was fantastic. I made a point of sticking to the crest of the ridge, which was wider than expected, rather than going along the bypass path. It was never scary or exposed. There were frequent stops to enjoy the views and take pictures of the people behind me on the arete. Also, I didn’t want it to end! I waited for a few people to catch up. Had a chat with them. Walked. Took more pictures. Walked. Had a snack. Any opportunity to dawdle….
- More fun!
- Looking back towards Carn Mor Dearg
- The arete towards Ben Nevis
Just before the arête merges with the slopes of Ben Nevis, the rocks got too big for hopping, but were perfect for some easy scrambling. I was definitely going to make the most of the arête! At the marker post for the route down Coire Leis I spent some time chatting to the guys who had caught up on me earlier. Again dawdling, looking back along the arête and the walkers on it.
- Aonach Beag
- The arete and Aonach Mor
Sadly all good things come to an end and it was time for the final pull up Ben Nevis to a completely different world.
- Summit Ben Nevis
On the summit I chatted with a few people, took their pictures and ate a few more sandwiches. Then I walked towards the North East Buttress to have one last look at the CMD arête. A few climbers had just come up. I had a chat with them and took their pictures.
- Climbers on their way up
Alas, it was time for the descent via the tourist path.
- A rest on the way up
At Lochan Meall an t-Suidhe I left the masses behind and followed the path north, past the lochan straight down the slope towards the Allt a’ Mhuilinn. Further down, roughly were the posts are, there is a faint vehicle track, which I followed on and off. It appeared that the track was going to become more substantial closer to the river. This fed my hope that it would cross the Allt a’ Mhuilinn at a ford. Which it did. Even better, the water was low and there were stepping stones. No need to take the boots off!
One last look at Ben Nevis and then through the lovely wood back to the car.
I’m so glad my attempts last year failed. What a great day, well worth the wait!
- One last look