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I had been reading Ralph Storer's description of his favourite route on the South Glenshiel Ridge which included only two Munros - Aonach air Chrith and Maol Chinn-dearg. The ascent would be via A' Chioch and the descent down Druim Coire nan Eirecheanach and what's more you return to the same spot as where you started. I did not want to have to walk/hitch on the Glenshiel road and I thought two tops would be a good introduction to the ridge for me. However, when I started looking into the route of ascent there were some scary stories of the scrambling on Druim na Ciche. There was one Walk Highlands report (from Ridgerunner) and he seemed to find it quite easy so I PM'd him for more info. Unfortunately he didn't respond so I had to make my own decision.
After a lot more research I came up with a different route taking in the middle three Munros but the disadvantage was doubling back to Maol Chinn-dearg to attain the ridge of descent.
Route of ascent up Druim Thollaidh. Maol Chinn-dearg on the left and Sgurr an Doire Lethain in the cloud on the right.South Glenshiel Ridge (3 Mid)-3 by
anniesmountains, on Flickr
From the same spot - the proposed route of descent. Aonach air Chrith is also in cloud on the left.South Glenshiel Ridge (3 Mid)-4 by
anniesmountains, on Flickr
The path starts right at the parking lay-by but you have to branch off to the right after crossing the burn to start the climb of Druim Thollaidh. The burn is the last place to top up with water for these three hills. It's a great ridge climb. Initially I kept losing the path but once the ridge narrows it's impossible to deviate off it. At the top is Sgurr Coire na Feinne (902m) and by now I was in the mist. The forecast indicated the tops would clear by 10 - 11am so I took a right and headed off towards Sgurr an Doire Lethain after putting on a couple of layers. Very occasionally there was a glimpse of what was around me and I had high hopes of a clear, warm day ahead. It was not to be!
The ridge up. It's a lovely walk - if only there were some views.South Glenshiel Ridge (3 Mid)-5 by
anniesmountains, on Flickr
Further up - doesn't look too hopeful.South Glenshiel Ridge (3 Mid)-6 by
anniesmountains, on Flickr
A little bit of colour from the flora! You can see the Glenshiel road far below.South Glenshiel Ridge (3 Mid)-7 by
anniesmountains, on Flickr
On the main ridge.South Glenshiel Ridge (3 Mid)-8 by
anniesmountains, on Flickr
I followed the path and got to the cairn at what I thought might be the summit but had to check and double check as there seemed to be higher ground ahead, but this was an optical illusion. This was IT! I took one photo and went back the way I had come. There are a few muddy-looking peat bogs up near the summit and may be OK for water for dogs but not for human consumption - there are lots of deer prints around them!
Summit cairn of Sgurr an Doire Leathan.South Glenshiel Ridge (3 Mid)-9 by
anniesmountains, on Flickr
I bypassed Sgurr Coire na Feinne on the way back and headed up for Maol Chinn-dearg. It was an easy walk with nothing to see except one short glimpse of Loch Quoich far below to the south.
Summit cairn of Maol Chinn-dearg (take 1).South Glenshiel Ridge (3 Mid)-10 by
anniesmountains, on Flickr
I didn't stop at the summit except to take a photo and took note of the ridge where I would descend. Off again towards Aonach air Chrith. Up to this point I met or saw not a soul but now things started to change. Firstly I met a guy who was pretty upset about the lack of views as this was his second time doing the ridge and it was the same the last time he did it. Also, the cloud did start to lift somewhat and I started seeing the walk ahead. For me this was the most interesting part of the day. It's a varied ridge walk with a little scrambling and lots of ups and downs. I kept meeting people and stopped to speak to them all - this took up quite a bit of time as I seemed to be the only person going against the flow!
Heading towards Aonach air Chrith. Mist lifting and people on the ridge.South Glenshiel Ridge (3 Mid)-11 by
anniesmountains, on Flickr
Across the glen to the south are the duo of Gleouraich and Spidean Mialach - they are now high on my list!South Glenshiel Ridge (3 Mid)-12 by
anniesmountains, on Flickr
The summit of Aonach air Chrith shows up. Whoopee I can see something at last.South Glenshiel Ridge (3 Mid)-13 by
anniesmountains, on Flickr
Looking over to Loch Quoich over the shoulder of Gleouraich.South Glenshiel Ridge (3 Mid)-14 by
anniesmountains, on Flickr
Looking back to Maol Chinn-dearg which is now clear. South Glenshiel Ridge (3 Mid)-15 by
anniesmountains, on Flickr
A group of seven people coming down the shoulder of Aonach air Chrith - they looked like spiders. The summit is way over to the left.South Glenshiel Ridge (3 Mid)-16 by
anniesmountains, on Flickr
Aonach air Chrith has to be one of the best named hills in the Highlands. Most names are pretty boring and are variations on a theme - big, small, medium, grey, white, black, red or female body parts
But this hill - I just kept repeating it all the way up "Aonach air Chrith, Aonach air Chrith". It sounds lovely and it gives one a frission of excitement. I'm not sure if it's the ridge that shivering or the person walking it
Summit of Aonach air Chrith with the ridge beyond.South Glenshiel Ridge (3 Mid)-17 by
anniesmountains, on Flickr
I went over to the start of Druim na Ciche which is the top of A'Chioch (my original plan for ascent). It looked a bit scary from here but there may have been some bypasses. I still don't know if I should have tried it
Druim na Ciche up which I did not come! South Glenshiel Ridge (3 Mid)-18 by
anniesmountains, on Flickr
Looking west to Druim Shionnach. I'll leave that for another day.South Glenshiel Ridge (3 Mid)-19 by
anniesmountains, on Flickr
Looking east to Glen Loyne and Loch Loyne.South Glenshiel Ridge (3 Mid)-20 by
anniesmountains, on Flickr
Back to Maol Chinn-dearg where I'm now heading.South Glenshiel Ridge (3 Mid)-21 by
anniesmountains, on Flickr
Looking down to Alltbeithe. The slopes of Gleouraich on the left and Sgurr a'Mhaoraich is on the right.South Glenshiel Ridge (3 Mid)-22 by
anniesmountains, on Flickr
Zoomed in on Alltbeithe. Lots of activity here - not sure what is being constructed. South Glenshiel Ridge (3 Mid)-23 by
anniesmountains, on Flickr
A ray of sunshine on the Claunie Inn - but the haze did not clear all day.South Glenshiel Ridge (3 Mid)-24 by
anniesmountains, on Flickr
A splash of colour on the top of Maol Chinn-dearg (take 2).South Glenshiel Ridge (3 Mid)-25 by
anniesmountains, on Flickr
Sgurr a'Mhaoraich from Maol Chinn-dearg.South Glenshiel Ridge (3 Mid)-26 by
anniesmountains, on Flickr
I spent a while on the second visit to Maol Chinn-dearg as the visibility had improved but I still could not see any details of the north ridge or beyond. Druim Coire na Eirecheanach is a great ridge until you reach the zig-zags. Then I found it a bit tedious! However, I was glad to get back to the burn as I had drunk the last of my water. Glad it wasn't a hot day after all!
The top of Druim Coire nan Eirecheanach heading down. South Glenshiel Ridge (3 Mid)-27 by
anniesmountains, on Flickr
A puff of cloud looking towards my ascent ridge. Sgurr an Doire Lethain is now also clear in the distance.South Glenshiel Ridge (3 Mid)-28 by
anniesmountains, on Flickr
Looking back up Druim Coire nan Eirecheanach before I reached the zig-zags.South Glenshiel Ridge (3 Mid)-29 by
anniesmountains, on Flickr
Oh, and did I mention the deer keds? They were horrible on the way up and one even got into my mouth
I managed to get it out but not without difficulty! I didn't experience them on the ridge at all but met them again on the way down. I don't remember ever seeing or hearing of these creatures before but I have to say they are not as troublesome as the midges or even clegs as I have never been bitten by one - not even the one in my mouth!
In summary, I really enjoyed the hills but missed the views. I'll be back to do the two 'ends' and hope for better weather. I feel I've cracked open the box of mysteries that is Kintail!