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I'm not the fastest hill bagger in history, I guess everybody has their own pace when it comes to mountains. As 2014 is slowly coming to an end, I have already reached my annual targets and I'm more than happy with 36 Munros and 17 Corbetts (2 repeats) done this year. I didn't expect to reach the round number of 80 C's so soon but somehow I managed to get that far - it pays to be stubborn!
Looking back at my Corbett statistics I noticed, that after the initial couple of years I started to use Corbetts as easier, usually shorter walks for autumn-winter time, or for semi-good summer days. Hence some of my Corbett climbs were done in grey, cloudy conditions. On the other hand, I have some fantastic winter memories from various hills all over Scotland. Corbetts shouldn't be called "lesser Munros" in my opinion - some of them are more difficult than their higher brothers and can give the walker a superb day.
My first C' was Beinn Liath Mhor a'Ghiubhais Li, the hill with unbelievably long name and great views over Loch Glascarnoch
It was also my first winter climb.
Number 10 was Garbh-bheinn on Skye, one to remember! It was my first scrambling test which I passed with only a few tears in my eyes
Number 25 was Sgurr a'Mhuilinn, my local Corbett, climbed with its neighbour, Meallan nan Uan.
Number 50 was Sguman Coinntich in Kintail, done on a bright February day, with traverse to Faochag - another walk to remember.
Now number 80 was coming and this turned out to be Meall a'Phubuill, a mountain many of you never heard of
If asked which is my fav C', I couldn't say for sure. I'm stuck somewhere between Beinn Dearg (the Torridon one), Glamaig (done it twice already), Quinag (all three tops) Ruadh-stac Beag and Arkle. and I'm not even half way through them yet, so many more to come, including Foinaven, Beinn Tharsuinn, Streap, The Cobbler and so far...
Back to number 80, I didn't plan any special celebrations, just wanted to enjoy another day on the hills, taking advantage of unusually warm and sunny November weekend. The best weather was said to be on the western coast, so Meall a'Phubuill was an obvious choice. A perfect hill for a shorter day (about 16km circular) and not too far away from Inverness. Kevin is worried that we are running out of winter routes within reasonable driving distance, but I don't have a problem with repeating mountains, especially if the first visit was in cloudy conditions.
At the moment, I was still able to find something brand new to do. Meall a'Phubuill has been on the radar since last summer, when we climbed the neighbouring Beinn Bhan. The day was boiling hot and we were chased by cleg army, but I really enjoyed the climb - and the summit views. In this area, every hill is bound to be a good viewpoint, so I expected some breathtaking panoramas from Meall a'Phubuill ridge - and I wasn't disappointed.
Our intention was to follow WH route, but in the end we decided to stay on the ridge for longer on the way back... No difference distance-wise, additional 200m of ascent, but it's worth it:
On Saturday morning we drove up Glen Loy to Achnanellan, where we found parking space at the end of public road (next to rubbish bins). We crossed two gates and started the walk-in on a quite wet pony track up the glen. Some remains of morning mist still hung in the air, but the day looked promising, though at the moment we still walked in the shadow:
The track follows River Loy and en route there are many small waterfalls to admire:
The Brian Chollie forest is hardly a forest at all...
...and when in the glen, the best views are back east, towards Beinn Bhan:
Kevin kept glancing to our right and up the slope, murmuring something about "the sooner we start going up the better", but I insisted on staying on the beaten track as WH route suggested - the mountain side above us looked waterlogged and very slippery
In Brian Chollie woods:
We almost missed the old stone dyke, marking the start of the climb. It's so overgrown that I walked past it without realising it was something man-made
Kevin was better at fence-spotting and we turned up to face the steep slope. One-two, let's go!
When seen from below, these slopes look off-putting, but as we pushed on, we discovered the ground wasn't as wet as we expected. The ground is mostly grassy, with some areas of bracken, now long dead and decaying. We manoeuvred a bit to avoid countless small streams sipping slowly down the hillside and aimed for the col between the two easternmost tops of the ridge (it would be easier to write, if they actually had names on the map!!!).
View back east to Beinn Bhan:
West into the glen:
We walked out of the shadows and into the sun - another bright November weekend! Kevin noticed that tops of higher hills were now "popping out" from behind lower ridges on the south-western horizon, and of course he ordered a break to take some snaps...
I spent some time watching a small herd of deer on the slope above us, but they were too far to get any decent pictures... Kevin said he had already photographed hundreds of deer in his life and he preferred to photograph cats
Again, like last weekend, we had to strip to single layers, it was much warmer than one would expect in November. This time last year I was plodding up An Socach in knee deep snow, this year it felt more like summer!
We reached the ridge and from now on, the steep trudge was over and the true mountain p*o*r*n could begin!
Behind me - Meall a'Phubuill ridge and Gulvain:
The stone dyke runs all the way along the ridge, from the easternmost top (698m) to the "middle" one (747m) and then down to the col between that and the main summit. Funny, I felt like this man-made addition to the landscape added an interesting twist to the panoramas. Here, looking back towards the 698m top from the col:
As we stated walking along the ridge (aka follow-the-dyke exercise
), we could play hill-spotting. So many mountains on the horizon, some of them completely unknown to me. Looking south-west towards Ardgour and Moidart, I suddenly realised I know zilch about this corner of Scotland!
If I read the map correctly, this is the ridge of Gairbh Bheinn:
More familiar shapes to the east, including Ben Nevis, at the moment the summit area free of cloud:
Zoomed:
Carn Mor Dearg ridge:
Loch Lochy mountains:
A cat on the fence
The day was shaping up nicely, blue sky, some high cloud in the eastern sky but I couldn't wish for better weather to bag my 80th Corbett!
As we gained height on the ridge, views grew even better, if it was possible!
The Northern panorama, including the tops of Knoydart, Sgurr na Ciche and friends:
Zoom:
Nevis ridge clouding up:
Looking NE into Glen Mallie:
View south from the 747m top:
Speechless... This walk was truly delivering!
One more zoom:
Crazy cat:
After five minutes break on the 747m top, we started descending carefully to the col above Coire nan Laogh. This descent was quite steep and surprisingly craggy, but all rocks can be avoided, there is a sketchy path to follow.
The summit of Meall a'Phubuill, Gulvain behind:
Not the worst slope in my life:
We quickly crossed the wet bealach and aimed for the summit. The final climb is not too steep and on easy, grassy ground.
Looking back at the lower top:
A few more minutes and the summit cairn came in sight. Around Scotland in 80 Corbetts!
I couldn't take my eyes of Gulvain, it's only four months since we climbed it, but I still remember how steep it was
From our Cotbett, the Munro looked majestic:
On the eastern sky, Ben Nevis was still struggling to stay cloud-free...
...but the best views from Meall a'Phubuill are definitely south and west, towards Ardgour/Moidart/Sunart hills. The high cloud was slowly gathering above the rocky ridges and the mountains looked scary to say the least!
View north was more friendly, with blue sky still holding:
Kevin on his 81st Corbett
Loch Arkaig and the mountains of Loch Lochy:
Shortly after we arrived at the top, the high cloud followed us and we lost the sunshine. Immediately, the temperature dropped as well
so in 15 min or so we were shuddering by the summit cairn. Just to add up, my vacuum flask decided to pack up
and instead of hot tea I ended up with the iced version (well, almost
).
We discussed the return route and decided that instead of dropping to Coire nan Laogh straight from the col, we would stay up on the ridge, follow it all the way to the eastern top and then descend along the edge of the forest to Achnanellan. This way, we were going to keep the amazing views for longer, and I suspected that whichever route we took, it was going to be wet and boggy anyway.
So we enjoyed the stroll along this ridge:
We followed the fence all the way back to the 698m top (a Graham top of Corbett for top baggers). The sun came back at some point and views were still lovely. Behind us, Gulvain and Meall a'Phubuill now hid in shadows:
One more look at the eastern panorama - with Nevis in the middle:
From the 698m top, our descent route followed the ridge (and the stone dyke) for about half a km, to a flatter area covered with peat hags. The ground was not too bad, easy walking on grass and low heather, with the bulky shape of Beinn Bhan dominating the view:
Last glimpse towards Knoydart:
The wet area seen here in the middle of the photo, from here we turned left and started steeper descent into the glen:
Achnanellan and Glen Loy from above:
The final descent was easy at first, but the final 150m or so were on very overgrown ground, with high heather and bracken everywhere. Luckily, the latter was already brown and shrunk, but in the middle of summer this wouldn't be the best way to descend the mountain - I imagine this overgrown slope would be a tick heaven!
Lower down we found a wet path that followed the edge of the forest, which we descended back to the track in the glen. Now we were only 10 min away from the car
Summing up, a good route for shorter autumn day. I have to say, what this hill lacks in character, it gains in views, so it is definitely worth keeping for a clear day
It was a great choice for my no. 80!