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This trip had been initially planned for the summer with Martinh and his wife Denise but had to be cancelled at the last minute as my mate Andy turned his ankle at football on the Friday night. I was gutted but you cannot help these things, well apart from not playing 5 aside football the night prior to a big trip hill walking!!
I had sent out a few feelers to mates to see if anyone was keen for the trip this weekend but no takers. I knew this was going to be my only chance to have both days clear in a weekend till well into the New Year so I had to grab this chance. The weather looked positive and I loaded the tent and sleeping bag into the car as well as enough provisions to last me through till the Sunday. I left Westhill at the crack of dawn (6am) in horrendous weather, fog and drizzle. The fog would continue all the way up to just after Achnasheen, then the mist just parted and the scenery was outstanding. It looked like I had made the correct choice and Torridon was out of this world beautiful.
I have been a Cairngorms fan since childhood, I spent many a summer up at my Grans in Boat of Garten running wild, leaving the house in the morning and not returning till last light. The Cairngorms looked like the highest mountains in the word to me then, however I had never seen the Beasts of Torridon, I was getting goose bumps driving down the single track road to Torridon, and these Sharks Fin Mountains just rose out of the land straight up. Beinn Eighe to my right looked stunning then Liathach came into sight. I had to stop the car a number of times to take photos.
- Liathach looking impenetrable
The plan was to stay in the free camp site in Torridon and do a walk on Sunday also so I popped in by the facilities to check them; they would do nicely and were free!! I drove through Torridon to the small car park just after the bridge where the walk starts.
- Waterfall from Bridge and car park
I went onto the bridge to get a snap of the waterfall and just continued on without thinking, it turned out I went up the path on the right of the bridge instead of the left and had to return and get the correct path as I planned on doing the route clockwise as I wanted to do the Munros and could always go back if the Horns proved too dangerous for the dogs. There is a green wheelie bin at the left of the bridge and you follow the path behind it, the path on the right is the one you return on. The climbing begun almost instantly and the legs burn initially, due to the ascent. The stepping stones that have been created on the path are superb and help in making short work of the climb.
- Dogs behaving
We reached the deer fence and I thought I would have to heave the dogs over, weighing around 19kgs I did not fancy that but luckily there is a small section of hanging fence where the dogs could get through if I lifted it a bit.
After this I heard Roy barking and wondered if we had come across another walker as he likes to let me know when this happens but I could not see anyone, on looking more closely it was a huge stag he was yelling at. It stood its ground and so did the dogs which I was pleased with, I imagine the size of it put them off going closer to investigate. The Stalkers have obviously done a great job here as that’s one of the heathiest stags I’ve seen and he’ll likely have many offspring appearing in the spring on Beinn Alligin.
- Monarch of the Glen and Monarch of the Mountain
- First glimpse of the Horns and the Black Notch
- Left to right, Beinn Dearg (Corbett), Beinn Eighe, Liathach
Looking ahead the route goes up to the right of the Crags on Na Fasreidhnean, here we were in the shadow of it and it was slightly colder but still just a t-shirt and in November too.
- Na Fasreidhnean
- Lochy posing, or zooming in on something
- Into the shadow
- Torridon must be in the flight path for many Airliners
- Back to Upper Loch Torridon
- And again
The path is still excellent and the artificial steps created make the climb a doddle up to the top when the summit of Tom na Gruagaich came into view. The dogs and I jogged on like school boys to the summit and the views were out of this world, best I have ever had I’d say. Skye and the Cuillin looked so clear and there were that many mountains all round I did not recognise them all. I am more familiar with the mountains back East but the profiles of the Western Mountains was a different kettle of fish, seeing new mountains and in fact differently formed mountains was so refreshing. We spent about 15 minutes soaking in the views before heading off towards Sgurr Mor.
- The Horns
- Summit of Tom na Gruagaich
- Skye Cuillin zoomed
The route off of Tom na Gruagaich was a tad steep and you have to pick your way carefully, however I tend to follow the dogs as they are decent enough at finding the easiest route.
The walk round the Bealach to the start of the ascent up Sgorr Mor is a nice walk and gives the legs a wee rest before the last steep sustained climb of the day.
- The Black Notch from above
About half way up we came across the ‘Black Notch’ – Eag Dubh which is a noticeable feature of Beinn Alligin from below, this broke the ascent up and once you push on after that the summit is reached rather quickly. Here the views again were stunning, the dogs enjoyed their carrots and I got peace to eat my piece!!
- Summit Sgurr Mor
- Summit Sgurr Mor
- Nearing the Horns again
Next thoughts were on the Horns of Alligin, perhaps the most enjoyable part of the day. I am glad I did them, the dogs did great, we all picked our way up onto the first Horn, a couple of sections would be more tense in winter conditions.
- Just below the Horns
- Dogs ahead reaching the top of the first horn
- Looking towards second Horn from the first
The second Horn was reached and we stopped for a bite to eat again before descending off, we missed the third one out as the bypass path looked easy and we’d done the hard part. The descent off the hill proper was gruelling on the knees but the path was decent enough, again there were a few rocky sections but nothing too difficult.
- Down in the Glen looking back to Beinn Alligin
We reached the foot of An t-Sail Bheg and the going got easier, in fact this was one of the nicest walks out I have ever experienced, the weather was not particularly warm but because I was moving I was able to be in a t-shirt all day. It was an absolute pleasure to be here at this point, the dogs were quartering the terrain in front of me, the sun was beginning to fall and the setting was fantastic.
- Dogs enjoying a cool down
Torridon where had you been all my life??? I was soon back at the car and I have to say the walk was not gruelling and at no point did I feel tired or out of my depth but this was my favourite day in the hills by far.
The dogs both enjoyed their day and when I got back to the car I decided I’d rather just head off home instead of staying, I had had the best day and was content. Initially I wanted to stay as the distance was a 350 odd mile round trip so I felt I’d make the most of doing a walk the following day but I am in no hurry to finish this journey so thought I’d get home so I could reflect on this trip. Torridon I will be back. On the road out I noticed a few houses for sale; I wonder if I could afford a second mortgage?? Hehe.
One thing is for sure, my top three mountains on my to do list have changed and now are as follows:
1) An Ruadh-Stac
2) Beinn Eighe
3) Liathach
God’s Country Indeed. Cheers
- Happy Feet