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It was time for the 2015 Walkhighlands spring meet. Our organiser, Fife Flyer (Martin) had chosen Durness as the venue. It had been some years since I had ventured to this part of the world and so I was looking forward to it. Friday was looking the best for the weather, with Saturday and Sunday looking a bit on the wild side.
Initially I had put out “feelers” for the twin Corbett combination of Cranstackie and Beinn Spionnaidh for the Friday. Suggestions were that it could have been a popular hill. But with the best weather forecast for the Friday I found myself swithering at the last minute. Would Arkle be a better bet for the best weather day?
I was still swithering as I left Ayrshire at 2.00 a.m. under a pale orange moon, hearing of the sad passing of the great Australian Cricketer and commentator Richie Benaud. Another of my childhood heroes no longer with us
Man, I’m getting old
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Riedel2012, on Flickr
I was still swithering as I stopped at the Struie Hill viewpoint on the B9176 looking down the Dornoch Firth toward Ben Klibreck.
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Riedel2012, on Flickr
I was still swithering as I drove alongside Loch Shin, soaking up the impressive views all around me.
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Riedel2012, on Flickr
And still I was swithering as Ben Stack came into view, becoming ever more impressive as I drove toward it.
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Riedel2012, on Flickr
But then Arkle came in to view and I was swithering no more. The opportunity was too good to pass up on a day like this. I simply had to have her
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Riedel2012, on Flickr
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Riedel2012, on Flickr
I was parked up at the spacious parking area at Achfary just after 9.00 a.m. When I arrived there was just a single camper van parked up, with a chap readying himself for his walk (as I didn’t see him at all I assume he was headed to Meall Horn next door to Arkle or perhaps Ben Stack). As for me, I was suited and booted just about 9.30. and on my way.
The initial walk is along a good track to the house at Airdachuillin. What a stunning position
I wasn’t the slightest bit jealous as I walked passed
Almost immediately on passing the house the track downgrades to landrover track, but progress is easy to Lone, beside Loch Stack.
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Riedel2012, on Flickr
Arkle just simply dominates
She is one impressive mountain, that’s for sure. Ben Stack tries its best too to draw attention to itself, but is always going to struggle in such company.
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Riedel2012, on Flickr
Soon I was at the Gates of Mordor and a short section of forestry where the path starts a short, but steep climb up beside the Allt Horn, where easy progress was made to the small cairn marking the point where I would take to the flanks of this stunning hill (I ignored the first, larger, cairn I came across marking what I assume to be another option for reaching Arkle’s NW top).
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Riedel2012, on Flickr
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Riedel2012, on Flickr
The initial climb is up grassy, heathery, slopes, which although not as steep as the map might suggest, aren’t my favourite surface for ascending hills. Thankfully it’s an easy line to follow up and was over soon enough, the sight of the rocky upper slopes of the eastern top providing suitable encouragement to keep me moving. There were also the improving, if hazy, views all around, with Quinag looking ever more impressive as it peaked out from above the hills immediately ahead of me
Even managed a distant, hazy, view of the King of the Hills – An Teallach
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Riedel2012, on Flickr
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Riedel2012, on Flickr
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Riedel2012, on Flickr
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Riedel2012, on Flickr
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Riedel2012, on Flickr
The grey rocky top of Arkle provided something of a moonscape – I’ve never been to the moon, but if I ever did I’d imagine it look something like this, but maybe with a good covering of dust too. Looking back the contrasting rounded form of Meall Horn came fully into view, with lochan na Faoileige in front and Ben Hope poking out from behind
And then came the first view of Foinaven, which while not showing the complete ridge at its best still certainly impressed
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Riedel2012, on Flickr
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Riedel2012, on Flickr
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Riedel2012, on Flickr
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Riedel2012, on Flickr
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Riedel2012, on Flickr
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Riedel2012, on Flickr
This was a view that just got better and better as the remainder of the walk to the summit of Arkle continued, with the full extent of the ridge coming into view
But as Arkle’s eastern top was reached my Friday was about to get even better, as the full glory of the remainder of the walk was set out before me
I have to admit to letting out some kind of yelp of delight at the sight
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Riedel2012, on Flickr
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Riedel2012, on Flickr
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Riedel2012, on Flickr
To my right Ben Stack also looked like a good hill, with the blue waters of Loch Stack in the foreground – one for another day for sure
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Riedel2012, on Flickr
The initial descent off the eastern top was a tad steep and a little slippy on the loose dirt, but soon enough I was at the saddle and preparing for the climb to the summit proper. But not before I had spied a possible alternative descent off the hill for later, down what looked like a steep sided Coir Uairidh
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Riedel2012, on Flickr
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Riedel2012, on Flickr
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Riedel2012, on Flickr
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Riedel2012, on Flickr
But there was still plenty of excitement for me before attempting that. After the initial, fairly easy climb to the summit ridge there’s the little matter of the exquisitely narrowing ridge before arriving at the final broad, rocky ridge to the cairn. In truth the narrow section isn’t difficult, just a wonderful if all too short airy diversion
It’s always difficult (perhaps even dangerous) to give views on difficulty, for fear of giving a false impression. For me there was one point definitely where careful foot placement and had holds were a must for a couple of steps, with another one, possibly two places where hands were needed for balance. Otherwise I was just enjoying myself. My only regret was it was all done in a flash..........but then there was always the return
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Riedel2012, on Flickr
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Riedel2012, on Flickr
And then I was at the summit
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Riedel2012, on Flickr
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Riedel2012, on Flickr
Best views of Foinaven were to be had by moving along the ridge slightly.
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Riedel2012, on Flickr
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Riedel2012, on Flickr
Then it was time for the return along the narrow ridge, admiring the seemingly flat bottomed Coire of Am Bathaich and Loch an Easain Uaine
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Riedel2012, on Flickr
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Riedel2012, on Flickr
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Riedel2012, on Flickr
Once back at the saddle I opted for the Coir Uairidh route down. Initially very, very steep on slippery scree. Slow progress at first (thankfully) or else I could have been down a bit faster than I would have liked (and with a bad headache). Eventually though the path turned to grass and in truth I was down a lot quicker than I had expected overall.
P1160805 by
Riedel2012, on Flickr
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Riedel2012, on Flickr
And the views across to Ben Stack across the Loch of the same name were simply superb
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Riedel2012, on Flickr
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Riedel2012, on Flickr
I did make a bit of a boo boo though. I think I should have trended left once the worst of the steepness was over and followed an easy broad ledge down to the forestry I’d walked through earlier in the day. Instead I continued to follow the Allt a’Choir Uairadh down onto the An Nighe Leathad. Not a problem really, except leaving me with an at times boggy traipse back to the landrover track at Lone. Disturbed a couple of groups of deer on the way (one group of which was probably only a few yards away when they realised I was there – not sure who was more spooked; them or me
).
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Riedel2012, on Flickr
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Riedel2012, on Flickr
Once back on the track it was then an easy walk back to the car, taking a couple of zoomed shots off my Coir Uairidh descent – looks steeper than it felt in truth.
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Riedel2012, on Flickr
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Riedel2012, on Flickr
Once back at the car it was then a case of completing the rest of the journey to Durness and the campsite at Sango Sands. This took a bit longer than planned. You see, I kept stopping to take photos of the views
Okay, the next photos aren’t directly linked to Arkle, but hey, I was on my holidays
P1160862 by
Riedel2012, on Flickr
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Riedel2012, on Flickr