Perfect weekend in Kinloch Hourn

[weaselmaster]

At last - a good weather forecast that would allow a visit to some proper hills . My remaining Corbetts are increasingly to be located in the North West, which also happens to be my favourite part of the country. What a happy co-incidence. For this weekend I had decided to visit two Corbetts near Kinloch Hourn - not the most often climbed hills perhaps because they are situated amongst so many other mountains with more glamorous names and reputations. But Buidhe Bheinn was our target for Saturday and Sgurr nan Eugallt for Sunday. On paper both are quick hills to climb, so I was keen to make them more interesting. Particularly Buidhe Bheinn which could be easily combined with a visit along its curving ridge to the demoted Corbett of Sgurr an Bhac Chaolais and then on to Sgurr na Sgine in an elegant horseshoe. We drove up Loch Quoich after work arriving just gone 7pm at one of the nicer campspots along the Quoich road, a mile or so past the bridge. Unfortunately it seems to get used quite often by people that don't clean up after themselves when camping We pitched, put a couple of beers in the stream to chill and ate our meal watching the sun turn the side of Gairich rosy red. A peaceful night, gentle breeze and the first cuckoo of the year.

Glen Dessarry hills
P1070003 by 23weasels, on Flickr

P1070008 by 23weasels, on Flickr

Gairich & Loch Quoich
P1070005 by 23weasels, on Flickr

Gairich
P1070018 by 23weasels, on Flickr

Fine weather met our expectant eyes on Saturday morning as we packed up and prepared to drive the few miles to Kinloch Hourn. Spoke to a walker who was up to do Sgurr a Mhaoraich. Put £1 in the glass jar in the day-time car park at Kinloch Hourn and set off. The route to Buidhe Bheinn passes through the camping field (occupied only by one wigwam tent with a fireplace) then by the cluster of houses and up into the trees. Already the sun made for warm walking and the trees brought pleasant shade. The path continues steeply upwards alongside some electricity pylons - ugliness in the midst of beauty. Ahead of us, views down Loch Hourn began to open up, with the centre-piece being the might of Ladhar Bheinn - a mountain that kept its eye upon us the whole day, like Mount Doom in Mordor, although without the huge red eye glaring our way. A fabulous day to be out in the hills.

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Nice view to wake up to
P1070023 by 23weasels, on Flickr

Kinloch Hourn campsite - you can't park here so we moved the car to the other car park. This is the start of the walk however.
P1070025 by 23weasels, on Flickr

Towards the houses
P1070027 by 23weasels, on Flickr

And up the tree path
P1070028 by 23weasels, on Flickr

Up by the pylons
P1070030 by 23weasels, on Flickr

Loch Hourn & Ladhar Bheinn
P1070037 by 23weasels, on Flickr

The track reaches Cadha Mor and we followed a lesser track up the hillside. In fact we lost sight of this track and made our own way up Buidhe Bheinn - easy going on dry, short heather. Loch Hourn was mirror-calm, the mountains of Skye now coming into view along the skyline. Going became a bit rockier nearing the first top. The panorama of peaks up to Kintail/Affric was a joy to behold. An eagle soared over the South Shiel Ridge to our right. Still little sections of snow along the ridge to the 885m summit. Walking along the broad ridge towards Cadha nam Bo Ruadha there are a series of undulations, with rocky down-scrambles to be undertaken at two of the descents. Soon a stone wall appears and this can be followed towards the demoted Corbett. We passed several expanses of snow, populated by a number of frogs. This included a mating pair (or perhaps the one on top just wanted to avoid cold feet )

Skye starting to come into view
P1070040 by 23weasels, on Flickr

South Top of Buidhe Bheinn
P1070042 by 23weasels, on Flickr

The circuit ahead of us
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View to summit of Buidhe Bheinn
P1070045 by 23weasels, on Flickr

Sgurr a'Mhaoraich
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Glen Dessarry hills
P1070049 by 23weasels, on Flickr

Still wee bits of snow
P1070053 by 23weasels, on Flickr

Summit Buidhe Bheinn
P1070054 by 23weasels, on Flickr

View to Sgurr na Sgine/ Forcan Ridge
P1070056 by 23weasels, on Flickr

Rocky descent
P1070059 by 23weasels, on Flickr

Follow the wall
P1070067 by 23weasels, on Flickr

Ladhar Bheinn's still there...
P1070070 by 23weasels, on Flickr

Snow frog
P1070071 by 23weasels, on Flickr

Reaching the summit of Sgurr a Bhac Chaolais there's a steep and quite unpleasant scrambly descent over grass and scree to reach Bealach an Toiteil. Easier in ascent I think. Once down to the bealach however, the going was easy and the eye is drawn to the striking slabby face of Sgurr na Sgine. Just briefly did I entertain thoughts of trying to find a route up the north-east of the face We did make for the wall that appears up the side of Sgine and kept a parallel line somewhat above this over the boulders. Nothing too unpleasant and only a couple of hundred metres anyway until we reached the top. Enjoyed great views of the Saddle including the western continuation of its ridge - one for the next few months, that! Descent was easy enough, just down the gently sloping back of Sgurr na Sgine in a SW direction. As you descend the track in the plain below becomes visible. We made for a small hut on the other side of the river - there are stepping stones beside it and we were then onto a good track. This later joined with our outward track at Cadha Mor and a pleasant saunter back into Kinloch Hourn followed.

Pano looking NW
P1070073 by 23weasels, on Flickr

Summit Sgurr na Bhac Chaolais
P1070075 by 23weasels, on Flickr

P1070077 by 23weasels, on Flickr

Steep descent...
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...down this
P1070082 by 23weasels, on Flickr

Sgurr...
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...na...
P1070084 by 23weasels, on Flickr

...Sgine
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Steep pull up from the wall
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View back to Sgurr na Bhac Chaolais
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NW ridge of the Saddle - looks a bit tasty
P1070090 by 23weasels, on Flickr

Summit Sgurr na Sgine towards the Forcan Ridge
P1070093 by 23weasels, on Flickr

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Descent route
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down to and across the river
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Back to the main track
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Loch Hourn glimmering in the late afternoon sun
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Unusual tree
P1070106 by 23weasels, on Flickr

Stats
P1070108 by 23weasels, on Flickr

This walk had not been particularly long, but had felt quite a tiring day out - maybe all the ascents and descents in the sunshine and the experience of being surrounded by such breathtaking scenery.



Back at the car, we drove a couple of miles back along the road to a spot we'd picked earlier beside the ruined cottage at Coire Shubh. This would be the start of the next day's walk up to Sgurr nan Eugallt and was a fine place to pitch, having flat dry ground and a stream running beside. A stag and hind were grazing in the field opposite, towards the Loch and seemed unbothered by our proximity. We enjoyed a well earned meal followed by a bottle of double macchiatto stout (plug for the Pilot Brewery in Leith - this stuff is just amazing at 10.5% ). Probably a bit too much caffeine in the beer as sleep was hard to come by despite the bucolic surroundings. A midnight invader also kept me awake - I could hear rustlings and reckoned that we had a mouse in the tent. I keep the foodstuffs in a big plastic box (having previously experienced murine marauders) but I knew I had not put the top of the box on firmly. Shining my light I couldn't see the mouse, but did put the top of the box on firmly. I could still hear intermittent rustles and crinkles after this but assumed it had found the small bag of rubbish. However, woke to find I had actually sealed the creature into the food box, where she had been nibbling various items - the ready salted crisps seemed a favourite. A wee dormouse was hiding under assorted jars at the bottom of the box - I carefully removed obstacles and tipped the box sideways, following which it bounded off with agility towards the bridge. Another cracking morning - being already at the starting point made for a slovenly rise - didn't get packed away and ready to start off til just gone 10am - tut tut.

Ruin at Coireshubh
P1070112 by 23weasels, on Flickr

Cooling the feet after a hot walk
P1070113 by 23weasels, on Flickr

Our night time intruder
P1070115 by 23weasels, on Flickr

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There's a stalker's path that leaves from the north of the cottage ruin and heads up the northern side of Coire Shubh. Again easy going, channelled through some crags lower down then onto open hillside. A bit marshy in places. There's a long section that passes underneath Sgurr Dubh - I decided to inject some interest and started climbing up Sgurr Dubh. initially grassy and moderate, the last 100m are steep and quite slippy - well particularly if you have your Salomon boots on as Allison did - these are not the best on any sort of scrambling terrain and she struggled with the ascent. That left her a bit subdued for the remainder of the day, having stared death in the teeth or somesuch. There were great views along Loch Quoich from the top, with Cirrus clouds painting the sky above. Following the fence post line, we moved on towards the imposing bulk of Sgurr nan Eugallt. The ascent is, however, easy enough - vestiges of snow hanging on here and there to be avoided or walked over as you wish. Arrived at the trig point for some amazing views out to Skye - small flashes of snow on a few of the tops there, the whole ridge visible - wow! Sat and had lunch and basked in views south into Knoydart - made use of Harvey's Map to identify all the different knobbly hills within the ranges there. Sgurr na Ciche stands out as the most noticeable mountain, with the curved back of Ben Aden like a Stegasaurus. This was very useful reconnaissance for our next visit into the Rough Bounds, hopefully in a couple of weeks time. Not too much snow left.

Start of the track
P1070117 by 23weasels, on Flickr

This looks a bit dull - let's go up Sgurr Dubh (in picture)
P1070119 by 23weasels, on Flickr

Sgurr Dubh with Sgurr a'Chlamhaimh to the R
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View up Loch Quioch
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Allison (dot) struggling up Sgurr Dubh
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Loch Hourn
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Sgurr nan Eugallt
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We follow the fence posts along here
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increasingly rocky as the summit is approached
P1070143 by 23weasels, on Flickr

P1070144 by 23weasels, on Flickr

Not many summits can boast a view like this
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There's Ladhar Bheinn again
P1070147 by 23weasels, on Flickr

"I am the trig point - not the true summit!!"
P1070148 by 23weasels, on Flickr

P1070150 by 23weasels, on Flickr


Mindful of Allison's mood I enquired what she wanted to do. I had hoped to head down the ridge to Sgurr a'Chlaidhaimh but knew there was another top to our west. We left rucksacs at the trig and headed over towards Sgurr Sgiath Airigh, patches of snow and small lochans to be traversed. Got to the top of the "bump" on the way to Airigh and was puzzled - from here it looked higher than the trig point, and indeed my GPS was reading 900m. (I later learned that this "bump" is indeed the summit of Sgurr nan Eugallt, so it was just as well we decided to go across to it!). The view from the square cairn on Sgurr Sgiath Airigh was, if possible, even better than that from the trig point. Stood and marvelled for ages - ususual to get such clear views without haze. Wonderful

Across to Sgurr Sgiath Airigh
P1070152 by 23weasels, on Flickr

Eigg
P1070153 by 23weasels, on Flickr

"Is that Ben Nevis??"
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Sgurr a'Choire Bheithe, Ben Aden, Sgurr na Ciche
P1070155 by 23weasels, on Flickr

Ladhar Bheinn
P1070156 by 23weasels, on Flickr

Skye (zoomed)
P1070159 by 23weasels, on Flickr

View back to the trig point
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Loch Nevis
P1070162 by 23weasels, on Flickr

Sgurr na Ciche
P1070163 by 23weasels, on Flickr

Now this is actually the summit of Eugallt
P1070165 by 23weasels, on Flickr

Loch Quoich
P1070170 by 23weasels, on Flickr

Cairn, Sgurr Sgiath Airigh
P1070171 by 23weasels, on Flickr

Knoydart/Dessarry hills
P1070174 by 23weasels, on Flickr

Gairich
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Loch Quoich pano
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Eigg
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Skye again
P1070180 by 23weasels, on Flickr

Allison was somewhat revived and said she was up for a bit more of the ridge. We therefore returned to the trig point and followed the fence posts to the SE down to a bealach before climbing up to the first of the two rough tops along this ridge. It was getting on a bit by now and I decided it would be sensible to draw the line here - little to be gained by visiting Sgurr a Chlaidhaimh other than one more tick on hill-bagging, and a more difficult return. Rather than retrace our steps to the track, which by now was miles away to the NW I reckoned we could drop into Coire Shubh and follow the Allt down to our starting point. Allison was a bit tentative on the steep grass, but the going levelled out quite quickly. Passed a rock that had the biggest facets of mica I've ever seen - it shone like a mirror as we walked towards it. Started a few deer from their peaceful reverie as we made towards the river.

Route towards Sgurr a'Chlaimhaimh
P1070185 by 23weasels, on Flickr

Ben Aden (to the R of centre) looks like a stegasausus, no?
P1070186 by 23weasels, on Flickr

Looking back to Sgurr na Eugallt
P1070191 by 23weasels, on Flickr

Rhum hills visible in the distance
P1070193 by 23weasels, on Flickr

Sgurr na Eugallt
P1070195 by 23weasels, on Flickr

Descent route into Coire Shubh
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Mica Crystals
P1070197 by 23weasels, on Flickr

From here it was easy going until the Allt started to enter a gorge. We decided to contour north of this, to pick up the northern tributary of the river which made for easier going. Passed a raven feeding on the carcass of a deer - who flapped languidly up as I walked by, giving a "Grokkk" as he circled off, disturbed from his meal. Back at the car, smitten by sunshine and the magnificence of the surroundings. This is a really great hill, offering a superb vista and I'd recommend it wholeheartedly (on a good viz day). Packed up our things and - rather reluctantly - set off down the road. Knowing that this weather was meant to be continuing all week it would have been so easy to just stay up in Kinloch Hourn. Did get some good views on the way back down the road, however, which brough a modicum of solace.

Sgurr nan Eugallt from the coire
P1070198 by 23weasels, on Flickr

...and in pano mode
P1070199 by 23weasels, on Flickr

Follow the Allt
P1070201 by 23weasels, on Flickr

Back to the start - you can just see the car by the ruin
P1070206 by 23weasels, on Flickr

Stats
P1070207 by 23weasels, on Flickr

A final view along Loch Quoich
P1070208 by 23weasels, on Flickr

[malky_c]

Spectacular stuff, and probably the best route on Buidhe Bheinn (I ended up taking an inferior one from Glen Shiel because I happened to be over there). Lots of great photos but I think this is my favourite:


Sunday was much sunnier in the west than the east by the looks of things

[scottishkennyg]

Cracking pictures, well done, you guys are closing in rapidly on the end of the C's..

[basscadet]

Wow that looked like a brilliant weekend I laughed at your mouse story - they are annoying, but strangely loveable
Got plans to do the corbets there ourselves, so thanks for scoping it out for us

[PeteR]

Stunning

These Corbetts have recently come to my attention now the days are longer, so thanks for scoping the route for me

[Beaner001]

Cracking weekend there! I could have done with dooking my feet in an icy cold stream like Allison after a decent length walk today

[Collaciotach]

Superb action , really is one of my favourite areas as well have had an eye on Eug Allt for a while now maybe a Winter top for me

[weaselmaster]

Superb action , really is one of my favourite areas as well have had an eye on Eug Allt for a while now maybe a Winter top for me

Does that translate as "peak of the death stream" then? I hadn't thought of it written like that

[Alteknacker]

Great report. You had truly awesome weather. I'm surprised that you managed to average even 1.9kph with views like you had of the Cuillin Ridge and Ladhar Beinn - just unbelievable. Some wonder pics

[dooterbang]

I'm with Malky on favourite photo. What a wondeful area this is, and you've captured it well. The view to the islands is stunning. And well done on another early finish from work

[weaselmaster]

I'm with Malky on favourite photo. What a wondeful area this is, and you've captured it well. The view to the islands is stunning. And well done on another early finish from work

Cheers Paul
I don't feel so bad if I go into work early
That area just makes my skin tingle - can't wait to get back up - plotting a route up Ben Aden now...

[dooterbang]

I'm with Malky on favourite photo. What a wondeful area this is, and you've captured it well. The view to the islands is stunning. And well done on another early finish from work

Cheers Paul
I don't feel so bad if I go into work early
That area just makes my skin tingle - can't wait to get back up - plotting a route up Ben Aden now...

Great stuff - looking forward to the next instalment

[Mal Grey]

Wow, really like the look of Buidhe Bheinn now. Thanks for a great report.

[BoyVertiginous]

Thanks for the insight on SnE. Interested to know what the going is like on the other side of the bealach from Coire Shubh, i.e. down towards Glen Barrisdale, any better/worse looking than Coire Shubh?

[rockhopper]

Absolutely stunning - what a cracking weekend to pick for these hills

Still to get to these hills - was up Sgurr a Bhac Chaolais.....before its demotion - cheers