
I'd done this walk twice before, the first time in May 2013, and then again in February this year. On both occasions the weather was pretty poor, the first time in clag from beginning to end; and the second time with the tops in clag, with visibility down to 50m. So I was determined that, if I did the walk again, I'd do it in fine weather so that I could get the spectacular views that others' pictures promised.
While taking a preparatory look over the route, I'd noticed that there are 12 named peaks - albeit a couple of them - Broad Crag and III Crag - stand only 10s of metres over the general level in the area. Perhaps a more reasonable name would be the Wasdale Horseshoe 10....
Due to an unfortunate conjunction of personal and work commitments, I'd been unable to make any use of the wonderful weather that the country enjoyed around Easter; and seeing the pics in WH reports was driving me stir-crazy.
I was scanning all the forecasts, probably in the subliminal belief that if I hoped hard enough, the weather god might react; but it didn't look too brilliant for the week up to the bank holiday - at least in terms of clear summits - but then about a week out, the Friday began to emerge as a potentially good day. And the MWIS remained constant in spite of the Met Office forecasters saying up until the Wednesday that they couldn't be sure which way it would go...
Knowing I'd only have the one day, I decided to go for the Wasdale Horseshoe again, the drive to the Highlands being just too far.
Having already reported on this route, albeit with multiple pictures of clag-bound hills...
http://www.walkhighlands.co.uk/Forum/viewtopic.php?f=16&t=49656
... this report will be short on text and long on pics - because this time the weather was just perfect, and this is a truly wonderful area.
So: my mood buoyed by the very favourable and constant MWIS forecasts, I set off for Wasdale at 4pm on Thursday. I decided to go up the night before this time so as to allow plenty of time for a long walk; and also I wanted to try out my new down sleeping bag.
With good conditions the drive is about 3.5 hours; but sadly, conditions weren't good - the M6 was more like the evening before a bank holiday!

But I did have plenty of time to notice how incredibly clear the air was - the Isle of Man was plainly visible from the M6. I just hoped this presaged well for the morrow.
It was a fraction under 5 hours later that I arrive at the turn-off to Wasdale Head, and as I drove up the dale - miracle! - the Horseshoe hills were beautifully clear.



Tent quickly pitched, I paid a quick visit to that building of cultural, architectural and historical interest that is the Wasdale Head Inn for some sandwiches and a pint, and then crashed out in my new down bag.
Being quite pumped up by the prospect of the next day's walking, I didn't sleep particularly well; and in spite of a frost, the bag was ridiculously warm, such that I had to uncover my head and arms in order to remain cool enough to be able to sleep.

I was up at 4.30am, to a wonderful clear frosty morning (cue: pulse rate accelerates!); and having packed the tent and reparked the car, I was setting foot on the base of Yewbarrow at 5.30am.
The last time I did the route I felt unreasonably tired at the end of it, and judging by the amount I drunk after I finished, I'd become dehydrated, not realising in the cold temperatures how much fluid I was losing. So this time I have 4 litres with me!


The ascent of Yewbarrow is quite a steep slog, but the views compensate for any effort.

(Not my picture, unfortunately - it was away before I could get my camera out)







The sun is now quite strong, but temperatures still feels to be around freezing.
So far I haven't met or even seen anyone. Magic





Looking around on the top of Kirk Fell is quite a strange feeling. I've been here twice before, but only in quite dense clag, so I had no real idea at all of the lie of the land. This is really quite disorienting!



The last time I did the route, Gt Gable was completely shrouded in cloud, so I couldn't see the screes; and instead of taking the path to the left, I just yomped straight up the scree. This was a very bad idea indeed, not least because there was a very strong wind that frequently blew me over. And of course, there was the usual scree ascent experience of 1 step back for every 2 steps forward. Thank goodness this time I could see the stark difference between the 2 routes: on the map last time the great difference in the terrain had not been apparent to me.
It was MUCH easier this time!
On Gt Gable I meet the first people that day.... Pretty good for this area, I think.

Then down the path to Sty Head, and then on up the valley behind. Massively easier than when the wind is howling about your ears!


Easy or not, as I turn off the valley path and up towards Scafell Pike, and the path steepens, I begin to feel quite tired, notwithstanding having kept well hydrated. Damn, I'm definitely not as fit as I'd conned myself into believing!

A short diversion to take in Esk Pike, then on to Great End. There are quite a few more people around now - unsurprising, I guess, given the wonderful weather.





15 minutes walk gets me to the summit; which is pretty crowded now, it being 13.45. Across Mickledore I can also see people on Scafell itself.

Only one more to go now. After a long lunch break, I continue South West down to Mickeldore. The plan is to take the Foxes Tarn route. However, as I'm descending I see a very narrow-looking gorge-like gulley that starts well above the Foxes Tarn stream, and decide to give it a closer inspection. Either side of the gulley entrance itself, overhanging walls of rock give it quite a sinister air.
When I get there it looks quite challenging: very damp within the confines of the almost vertical sides of the crack, and some major obstacles to overcome in the stream. The stream bed itself looks much too mossy to climb, so it will have to be the sides.

I scramble up about 8 metres on the left hand side rock. But now I have a better view of what's there, and the idea of reaching an impasse somewhere near the top and then having the scramble back down that wet mossy slippery gulley doesn't appeal. Also I'm pretty cream crackered now. So I climb back down, and head for the Foxes Tarn gulley.


When I reach Foxes Tarn - about half-way up the ascent, I'm really feeling weak. Boy, I need to get fit

When I eventually arrive at the summit, puffing and panting like a steam engine, there are only 2 guys there.


It's all downhill from here...




Then a quick change, and on to a place of high cultural, architectural and historical interest...

Yep, this route definitely lives up to its top billing. Certainly the best vistas I've experienced in the Lake District.
Just a pity the skies don't clear more often...
And I'm not a bit fitter..
