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The countdown to a long-awaited long weekend in Torridon was finally over. With the following days forecast still in doubt, Friday looked excellent, so a sibling graduation drinking session was cut short the night before in order to leave sunny Glasgow at 7am. Scotty was getting the train from Aberdeen to Inverness, who I picked up with food supplies at 10.30, and after a wrong turn or two we were at the foot of giants in Glen Torridon by lunchtime, excited and nervous in equal measure.
Temperature was in the mid twenties so suncream was applied and we got going from west side of the bridge up the well-trodden and dry rocky path. Cracking views back over Upper Loch Torridon soon opened up.
P1000380 by
Ross Thomson, on Flickr
P1000383 by
Ross Thomson, on Flickr
Don't think I've ever been as warm as this while walking. Height is gained quickly, but we had to stop every few minutes for fluid, and worryingly my legs were already feeling the strain. The walk description had said the foot of the corrie is reached shortly, but it seemed to take an age for us to get there! A small waterfall in the distance at first seemed like a mirage in the baking heat. The corrie at first seems unclimbable, however the route from left to right towards Tom na Gruagaich, the first munro of the day, eventually comes into view.
P1000384 by
Ross Thomson, on Flickr
P1000387 by
Ross Thomson, on Flickr
P1000389 by
Ross Thomson, on Flickr
Coire nan Laogh by
Ross Thomson, on Flickr
P1000397 by
Ross Thomson, on Flickr
We stopped in the corrie for something to eat and a facewash from the stream, then it was onwards up the steps to Tom, meeting a couple of groups on the way who had been coming anti-clockwise.
P1000401 by
Ross Thomson, on Flickr
The breeze was a bit more substantial higher up, mercifully, and the views back became simply stunning. Before the final ascent, we stopped for 15 minutes to look across to Skye in the excellent visibility, not a single word being said.
P1000402 by
Ross Thomson, on Flickr
Cuillin Ridge by
Ross Thomson, on Flickr
The summit of Tom na Gruagaich is a short blast from here, and coming over the precipice reveals a truly breathtaking view of the ridge and famous horns ahead, with Liathach on the right, Beinn Eighe, Gairloch and Baosbheinn to the north and the Outer Hebrides to the distant west. The whole trip would've been worth it for these views alone!
Tom na Gruagaich by
Ross Thomson, on Flickr
Sgurr Mor and The Horns by
Ross Thomson, on Flickr
Towards Gairloch by
Ross Thomson, on Flickr
Outer Hebrides in the distance by
Ross Thomson, on Flickr
Liathach by
Ross Thomson, on Flickr
Sgurr Mor by
Ross Thomson, on Flickr
We stayed here for around 20 minutes, then began to walk along the ridge towards Sgurr Mor, the day's second munro, shortly before which you reach the awesome black cleft. Looking back to Tom gives you an idea of the sheer drop you were just standing atop - we were both really enjoying ourselves by now!
P1000434 by
Ross Thomson, on Flickr
Back to Tom by
Ross Thomson, on Flickr
Liathach again by
Ross Thomson, on Flickr
Upper Loch Torridon by
Ross Thomson, on Flickr
P1000444 by
Ross Thomson, on Flickr
Dont look down by
Ross Thomson, on Flickr
Black Cleft by
Ross Thomson, on Flickr
Atop Sgurr Mor, the views are again sublime. Here, we met a woman from New Zealand, Kyria, who asked if she could join us over the horns, as she had promised a friend she wouldn't do them alone. No problem we said - the more the merrier! The path over said horns is clearly visible from here, and some nerves started to build as we descended towards them.
Sgurr Mor Summit by
Ross Thomson, on Flickr
path over the horns by
Ross Thomson, on Flickr
Liathach once more by
Ross Thomson, on Flickr
P1000462 by
Ross Thomson, on Flickr
P1000466 by
Ross Thomson, on Flickr
The first horn is the highest ascent of the 3, and there are a few different routes up it. The bypass path looked extremely sketchy, and would suggest on a wet day or in bad weather it could be a potentially fatal option. We found it to be great fun, certainly not as difficult as described, and should be ok for most people who are relatively fit. Airy, yes, but even if you don't like heights there are no proper 'don't look down' moments.
first horn by
Ross Thomson, on Flickr
back to Sgurr by
Ross Thomson, on Flickr
P1000476 by
Ross Thomson, on Flickr
P1000478 by
Ross Thomson, on Flickr
A quick stop at the top and it was on to horn number 2, which is about the same difficulty, but a lot shorter. It turned out Kyria and I were both in the same line of work, so had lots to talk about, boring the life out of Scotty in the process!
out to sea by
Ross Thomson, on Flickr
second horn by
Ross Thomson, on Flickr
Loch a Bhealaich by
Ross Thomson, on Flickr
We were then on to the final horn, which bypasses first to the right, then up a tight chimney, probably the biggest 'steps' of ascent of the the day. Stopped at the top here for a few pictures, and I peered timidly over the edge, a drop of 600 odd metres.
P1000487 by
Ross Thomson, on Flickr
down the second horn by
Ross Thomson, on Flickr
P1000490 by
Ross Thomson, on Flickr
P1000497 by
Ross Thomson, on Flickr
It was then time to begin the descent which, as previous reports have noted, is probably the hardest part of the walk. The kness and calves were really feeling it here, and there are several shuffly bum sections. I can imagine this descent would be extremely treacherous in the wet or worse, in snow.
start of descent by
Ross Thomson, on Flickr
P1000502 by
Ross Thomson, on Flickr
Cuillin ridge zoomed by
Ross Thomson, on Flickr
Seemed to take us quite a while to get down here, but the path in alongside the burn is very pleasant once it levels out, passing several attractive waterfalls. We were back at the car and reality after 5 and a half hours that I will not forget in a hurry. Checked in at the youth hostel and had a few well-deserved tinnies - truly excited for the 3 days that lay ahead.
My love affair with Torridon had begun
P1000509 by
Ross Thomson, on Flickr
Sgurr Mor zoomed by
Ross Thomson, on Flickr
P1000511 by
Ross Thomson, on Flickr
well earned by
Ross Thomson, on Flickr