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The last day of my fortnight's stay in Glencoe turned out to be a warm, dry, sunny Friday. Two days earlier I'd climbed the 4 eastern Mamores, and an improved forecast on the Thursday meant no excuse for my anticipated rest. So the last 4 days of my trip were spent alternating between the West Black Mount and the Mamores. Like the longest two other walks on this trip, there was a bailout option: to be content with the Ring of Steall. But the weather was forecast to hold all day. So it was mainly a question of my own performance, on the 5th successive day of hill waking, and my 6th hike in 7 days.
At Ghlasdruim B and B I got a 7:00 am breakfast, then I drove to the car park at the end of the road in Glen Nevis. It was already warm as I walked through the Eas an Tuill gorge, with memories of the Aonachs 4 years earlier during my first ever week of Munro climbing. I reached the cable bridge. Crossing the Water of Nevis this way was quite an adventure, to add to those I'd already had this holiday on both Aonach Eagachs, the snow-covered descent from Bidean nam Bian and the Binnein Mor NE ridge scramble. What a couple of weeks! Soon I was crossing the burn below the An Steall waterfall.
- Steall Falls
There was a bit of flat, boggy ground to cross, before I began climbing onto what was, from that point, a pretty dry route underfoot. It was quite tiring to ascend in the warm, still conditions, but I was spurred on, knowing things should feel fresher higher up. By the time I reached An Gearanach, I felt comfortable.
- The Grey Corries from An Gearanach
- Binnein Beag and Binnein Mor from An Gearanach
- Stob Coire a' Chairn and Am Bodach from An Gearanach
- Sgurr a' Mhaim from An Gearanach
A Glaswegian arrived at the summit from the opposite direction. He seemed to be moving easily and looked like a bit of an athlete. So when I asked him, "How many Mamores are you doing today?" it was no surprise when he answered, "10". This was already his 6th Munro of the day; he'd started at 5:00 am and only had the eastern 4 left to do. He looked well on schedule to beat Steven Fallon's estimated time of 14 hours. I'd like to have taken my hat off to him, but the sun made sure the Tilley stayed where it was.
Then I moved on over An Garbhanach. There was a bit of exposure on that section, with a little scrambling needed.
- Moving towards An Garbhanach
Duly I reached Stob Coire a' Chairn. This 2nd Munro felt rather dominated by its higher neighbours. Two Englishmen caught me up. They were also doing the Ring, and thinking of extending it. I set off for Am Bodach...
- Heading for Am Bodach from Stob Coire a' Chairn
...and there was quite a steep ascent to reach the summit of Munro number 3.
- Loch Leven from Am Bodach
- Sgurr an Iubhair from Am Bodach
- Sgurr a' Mhaim and Ben Nevis from Am Bodach
The two English walkers overtook me here and headed for the top, Sgurr an Iubhair. I followed.
- Stob Choire a' Mhail and Sgurr a' Mhaim from Sgurr an Iubhair
There were quite a few other walkers on Sgurr and Iubhair, including a Scotsman doing the Ring of Steall. I set off for Stob Choire a' Mhail and looked left towards Stob Ban. My thoughts were, "That looks impressive, I want to go there!" rather than, "Do I have to go all that way after getting to Sgurr a' Mhaim and back?" Things were looking good
.
Moving on a little further I looked down left to Lochan Coire nam Miseach and its outlet. If heading for Stob Ban later, this would be the last chance for an emergency water top-up.
- Lochan Coire nam Miseach
Moving on over Stob Choire a' Mhail, I came to the Devil's Ridge. When I reached a notch blocked by some awkward boulders, I took the bypass on the east side, with the intention of following the crest should I return.
- The Devil's Ridge and Sgurr a' Mhaim
Then I pulled myself onto the 4th Munro, Sgurr a' Mhaim, and met the two Englishmen once more. They set off back towards the ridge, going for the two western Mamore Munros. The Scotsman from Sgurr an Iubhair then joined me. He was happy to complete the Ring, and would be descending NW.
- Stab Ban and Mullach nan Coirean from Sgurr a' Mhaim
My mind had already been made up; I was going back over the Devil's Ridge to take on Stob Ban and Mullach nan Coirean.
- Moving back towards the Devil's Ridge and Stob Choire a' Mhail
On the ridge again, I followed the crest for the most part, but dodged the awkward boulders on the west side.
- On the Devil's Ridge
After Stob Choire a' Mhail, I dropped down right to Lochan Coire nam Miseach, and began to ascend Stob Ban.
- Ascending towards Stob Ban
The two English walkers were now well ahead. Those boys were fit, like the Glaswegian I'd met on An Gearanach. But I made it onto Munro number 5 in my own time.
- Central and eastern Mamores from Stob Ban
I lingered on the summit a while, taking in the view. Nothing wrong with that, of course, but it was a sign I was starting to tire. Then it was time to move on again.
- Descending from Stob Ban
The walk to Mullach nan Coirean was quite long, but the ascents relatively easy. I was in no way out of breath, and my legs were still working just fine. But I was starting to feel a little tired in myself.
- Moving towards Mullach nan Coirean
- Looking back along the route from Stob Ban
The last Munro of the day was reached, with some great views towards the west coast.
- Beinn a' Bheithir, Loch Linnhe and Mull (in the far distance) from Mullach nan Coirean
Then it was time to go down.
- Coming down from Mullach nan Coirean
I descended along the NE ridge, then down into the forestry and onto the tracks. The path short-cutting the tracks through the last bit of forest was found and I walked down. I'd nearly reached the lower track when, on some bare ground below the trees, I strayed from the path. "No problem", I thought, "Just a few more metres through the trees". But I tripped on some forest debris, and fell flat on my face
.
No injuries, so I was quickly back on my feet. Soon I was onto the track and then the road at Achriabhach. Finally, I was walking back along Glen Nevis heading for the car park.
- Walking back along Glen Nevis, Meall Cumhann in front
I drove back to the B and B with just enough time to get to the Glencoe Gathering to order some food. There was no time for a shower, just a quick wash and change. After eating, I went downstairs to the bar for a couple of drams of single malt to see out my last night in Scotland. A Dalwhinnie first, followed by a peaty Jura. Carli, a lady from Australia who was working in the restaurant, had just finished her shift and was in the bar too. We shared a table for the last drink. Why do things like that seem to happen when you haven't had time for a shower?!!