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We have managed to reach Day 4. Last night I was feeling like I never wanted to see another hill again, but I had a great sleep and the morning dawned clear and sunny, with little wispy clouds wafting in and out making lots of atmosphere. It promised to be a lovely day for the Big 'Un.
here is the link to day 3.
http://www.walkhighlands.co.uk/Forum/viewtopic.php?f=9&t=54410
- View down towards Inverie from our campsite
- happy breakfast tea
- Coireachan Leacach
- cloud blowing in and out
The original version of this trip had involved starting from Kinlochhourn and doing the circuit of Coire Dhorrchail anticlockwise, but after a bit of reading of books and trip reports it seemed more sensible to do it this way, doing the more difficult scrambly bits in ascent and having already eaten three days' worth of our food so leaving our packs a little lighter.
We had a beautiful spot to sit and eat breakfast and watch the clouds waft in and out of the amazing corrie opposite (between Meall Buidhe and Luinne Bheinn) but eventually we had to pack up the house and set off.
We decided to head back to the top of the pass where we had noticed a path setting off up towards Ladhar Bheinn but this path seemed to last all of twenty metres before disappearing into a bog.
Ah well, we thought, so we set off on a rough bearing into Coire a' Phuill (bog corrie) heading for the slope up to Stob a'Chearcaill where we thought we had seen a gap where we hoped to get up the steep cliff. The bearing weaved about a bit as we dodged bogs, but it was not long before we could see where we were heading for and it looked impassable from a distance with cliffs and waterfalls at the bottom of our target. But as we got closer we could see that there was a possible route right up at the eastern edge of the cliff. There was a short, steep scramble and then a path traversing nicely across the slope to pt.849 at the eastern end of Aonach Sgoilte.
- a wee tree hanging on for all it's worth
- Stob a'Chearcaill. We are heading for the highest point under the cliff where there is a short but straightforwards scramble easily seen when you get to it.
- Looking back - I think that's Sgurr Mor in the background on the right.
- Looking back to Mam Barrisdale, Luinne Bheinn and Meall Buidhe
We had our first snack stop just below the ridge line here and sat in the sun thinking it might just count as summer!
- The first scrambly bit negotiated, this is where we are going
- same view zoomed.
From this point there is another 1.5km of lumpy ridge with several ups and downs and quite a lot of hands on scrambling in short bursts, with one or two moves which are slightly tricky, especially with a full pack. We met a gentleman coming the opposite way, with an enormous rucksack, and were glad we had decided to go clockwise (less uphill, less down-scrambling).
- Wow! Sudden view down into Barrisdale bay
It was a fresh, breezy sunny day with excellent visibility and we stopped for a second lunch in a sheltered glade just before the final push to the summit.
- happy cups posing.
- up across the Glenelg peninsula to Skye and beyond
- across Loch Hourn to Beinn Sgritheall
- nearly at the top, and that's the way we go down.
What views from the summit and we were so pleased that it was a clear day for this most majestic of mountains.
- Rudolph on the summit, view out to Rum with Sleat in front and Canna behind, a bit of Eigg on the left
- Me again. Behind is Beinn Sgritheall.
And now we had the treat of walking along the airy ridge of Stob a'Choire Odhar. Nothing at all difficult but you get a feeling of being on top of everything, with great views of the cliffs of Coire Dhorrcail and the way we came, right into the hills to the south of Loch Quoich, with a real sense of satisfaction and achievement.
- Stob a'Choire Odhair with Sleat behind and the Cuillin behind that. Totally worth all the effort.
- Looking across Aonach Sgoilte to Meall Buidhe - and is that some Weather coming?
- looking East the way we came all those days ago
- down to Barrisdale
The path down the ridge eventually peters out and we declared UDI and took our own route down the grassy slope into the coire where a confluence of burns marks the start of the Stalkers path down into Barrisdale. This path was boggy at first but soon became another of these beautifully constructed, well graded paths that we were so grateful for.
- saying goodbye to Coire Dhorrcail
This brought us right down to Barrisdale Bay where suddenly we were confronted by midges. By this time it was clouding over with spits of rain but fortunately it never came to anything and by the time we had walked around Barrisdale Bay the rain had gone. We chose not to camp at the site because we didn't have any money with us and didn't know if there was a charge. Also we are a bit antisocial and like to be on our own. We found a lovely camping spot on the machair not far from the track and out of sight of the estate house. There was enough breeze to keep the midges away while we enjoyed our tea and watched a ringed plover sitting on its nest.
- sitting outside the tent
So, again, there was evening, and there was morning, and that was the fourth day.
When we walked out the next day we came across a polite sign asking people coming in from Kinlochhourn not to camp anywhere (particularly the sea shore!) except at the campsite. The explanation was to preserve the wildness and to avoid disturbing wildlife which makes perfect sense. There were no such signs when we came the other way and we felt very guilty and hope that we didn't frighten off the plover.
The campsite, for info, costs £1each per night so if we go again we will definitely take some pennies with us. The bothy is £3 per night
here is the link to day 5
http://www.walkhighlands.co.uk/Forum/viewtopic.php?f=9&t=54435