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A lof of pain for some views - Knoydart

A lof of pain for some views - Knoydart


Postby Mountainlove » Fri Aug 07, 2015 3:10 pm

Route description: Sgùrr na Cìche: 3 Munros from Loch Arkaig

Munros included on this walk: Garbh Chioch Mhòr, Sgùrr na Cìche, Sgùrr nan Coireachan (Glen Dessary)

Date walked: 07/08/2015

Time taken: 11 hours

Distance: 26 km

Ascent: 1523m

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The forecast for the day was a few showers at lunchtime, followed by a dry and sunny afternoon, but the God of Bog and Rain had other ideas in store. :roll:

To make my experience more visible empty a 50000l swimming pool in your grassy garden. Let a group a cows roam in it for 2 days. Wait until in rains (non stop for 7 hours). Empty a pint of water in each of your hiking shoes. Walk around in your garden for 11h. Each time you want to eat something wait until it rains more than the previous 2 hours. Wear shorts! ... This sums up my Knoydart experience.

The drive to the starting point was something else. I certainly had not realize in the past that roads like that existed. The birth place of blind summits with more up and downs than I could count, but even with the challenging driving conditions the views were amazing!

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Loch Arkaig

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Close to the car park

Once arrived, I set off with a combination of sunshine and a few scattered clouds. I had read some trips reports who talked about the bog. Trying to be clever I decided to start the walk with Scurr na Ciche, hoping that this would bypass the bog. (No chance)

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The closest house to the postbox is across the loch in the distance

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The start of the walk with stunning views

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The old ruins of the barracks

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Following the track through the forest, the first 1.5 hours were indeed as easy as I could have wished for. A bit mind numbing as nothing distracting popped up, but I made good time. Passing the wee cairn which indicated the path down to A'Chuil (the bothy), the path left the forest and I got my first views.

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The first views of the mountains to climb

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The track through the forest

Continuing I entered the forest again and the path started to get a bit boggier.
It all changed when I got to the end of the path and stepped out of the forest. As far as my eye could see it was bog ‘wonderland’ and to make the experience even better it started to rain. :( :crazy: I quickly put on my jacket, thinking the wee shower would stop soon. Unknowingly that it would not stop for the next 7 hours!! Thick clouds draped themselves around the mountains and with my hood pulled deep across my face I moved on.
It is a gentle rise towards Druim nan Uadhag, but in the rain it seemed endless. Once or twice I lost the path and had to wade through knee deep soaking wet grass until I found the path again. My non waterproof shoes (bad idea to wear them) had filled up with water. Walking in the rain with cold soaking feet left me miserable and fed up. When the water content in my shoes got to the stage that I thought I emptied a bucket of water in them, I stopped to wring out my socks and insoles. Completely pointless, as within minutes my feed were wet again.

It is hard to describe, but the rain, no visibility, wet and cold feet and boredom, made the whole experience as miserable as possible. :( :( :( At times I was close to call it a day and return and only the thought of having to return to the path of hell made me stay put.
By the time I reached the highest point of the path (before the climb of Scurr na Ciche started) I had a 5 min break during which the rain stopped and I was able to enjoy views towards Loch Nevis.

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First views

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Towards the west- its wild out there

Moving on the rain started again and I carried on up the stone gully. Even in the rain the gully looked spectacular, with lots of waterfalls running down the sites. Walking through and alongside the burn on my way up my mood lifted a bit, but what I did not admired was the thick cloud which hid the top of Scurr na Ciche.

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Looking down the gully

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The way to the top, but no views of the summit

On the final climb up Scurr na Ciche met the first group of hill walkers. Exchanging some chit chat they told me that they had no view, but guessed that the clouds should have lifted by the time I was up. They were right! By the time I reached the cairn I was able to see the views and yet again there was a 5 min break in the rain. I stayed for some time enjoying the views and happiness returned. I was finally up a mountain again.

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The top and the cairn coming into view

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Views from the top

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Down Loch Nevis

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Low clouds

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Finally happy again

The climb down back to the bealach was quicker than I thought and so was the climb up to Garbh Chioch Mhor. It still rained, but yet again the top cleared just before I reached it. My mood had also improved and I had resigned to wet and cold feet.

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The clouds return on my way down

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Bizarrely Loch Quoich is still in sunshine

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The path far below

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Between Scurr na Ciche and Garbh Chioch Mhor

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Rain

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Looking back to Scurr na Ciche

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Garbh Chioch Mhor summit cairn and the way ahead

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Wet rocks

The walk between Garbh Chioch Mhor and Sgurr nan Coireachan was an endless up and down, made harder by the relentless rain and slippy ground. it seemed never ending. By the time I reached the bealach between Garbh Chioch and Sgurr nan Coireachan it was time for a change as the rain and perspiration had soaked though everything. Oh the joys to put some dry clothes on and eat something. I felt like a new person when I left and climbed up the final Munro. The climb was steep and when I reached the summit 7h of near constant rain came to an end. Towards the east blue sky could be seen and Loch Nevis glowed in the sunlight still hidden under a thick layer of grey clouds. I stayed for a while simply enjoying the sun and being able to take my waterproofs off.

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The sun and view down the bealach between Garbh Chioch Mhor and Sgurr nan Coireachan

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Towards the north on the final climb

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The previous 2 Munros

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The battle of the sun, trying to break through the clouds

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The last lump to climb on the way back down

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Looking down

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The summit


Leaving the summit the nightmarish downhill climb started. I was back in soaking boggy land. Only the thought of a hot shower kept me going and hoping for a path close to the forest I was disappointed when I realized that the boggy path continued all the way Upper Glen Dassary. Back at the car I was certain that I would NEVER return to Knoydart, but then one should never say never :-)

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Blue skies at last

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On the walk down towards the forest

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Boggy path

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A'Chuil (the bothy)

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A rather fat looking stag

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Close to the car park

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Loch Arkaig during sunset
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Mountainlove
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Re: A lof of pain for some views - Knoydart

Postby jamesb63 » Fri Aug 07, 2015 4:04 pm

Shame about the weather ,But your pics are Fantastic :clap: :clap:
Love the shot of the post box wonder how often they collect it in the winter :lol:
this summer has been a write off :(
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Re: A lof of pain for some views - Knoydart

Postby spiderwebb » Fri Aug 07, 2015 5:28 pm

Well done in such conditions Maja. I had to look back to see when I did these and it was September, as I didn't recall much bog but then it didn't rain for 7 hours either :lol:

That road is something else, the trip in convinced me to add on Sgurr Mor to save having to come back down that road !!! But that was a hill too far I was scuppered at the end :(

Didn't find a Garmin Etrex 10 in the car park by chance ?? :D
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Re: A lof of pain for some views - Knoydart

Postby dav2930 » Fri Aug 07, 2015 7:08 pm

Totally sympathize with your misery walking up in the mist and rain (and with wet feet! :( ). At least you got some great views on the tops though - and some fantastic shots of them too! :clap: Worth the purgatory maybe? Me and Karl had a similar experience on these three in June - not quite as wet perhaps, but the clag just never lifted so we got no views at all. :( This picture sums up the day we had up there :lol:

Knoydart June 2015 086.JPG
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Re: A lof of pain for some views - Knoydart

Postby ancancha » Sat Aug 08, 2015 11:08 am

Its definitely a summer for leather boots, waxing and gaiters :lol:
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Re: A lof of pain for some views - Knoydart

Postby Alteknacker » Sun Aug 09, 2015 12:06 am

This is a strange report: you make it sound terrible, but the pics are brilliant (as usual) :clap: :clap: :clap:

There must be quite a bit of consolation for the bog/rain purgatory in the brilliant views you had???

Notwithstanding your doleful report, this is still near the top of my "must do" list!!!
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Re: A lof of pain for some views - Knoydart

Postby tall-story » Sun Aug 09, 2015 1:55 pm

Braw photies :) That brought back some great memories from when I was there 4 or 5 years ago. The bog you speak of was bone dry when I was there but we did make comment that it could be a bit messy after a bit of rain. And I think I would take a bike if I ever go back as the walk on the road back to the car is a bit of a bummer :roll:
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Re: A lof of pain for some views - Knoydart

Postby jules999 » Mon Jul 25, 2016 7:24 pm

Hi, I have just read your report on your trip,, and I have had to laugh, because I have just got back from doing the same round of hills plus I did Sgurr Mor and Sgurr Fhuaran the day before making a 2 day (x4) trip down that god aweful road,,and also,, I understand the pain thing,, omg,, it was a slog,, and the bog didn't make for a good outing,, but,, and its a good but,, it was forecast rain for the 2 days,, and lo and behold it didn't rain at all,, just little spitters here and there,, so,, like you,, we got the views,, and what views they were,,, what a delight,, so the pain of 2 blisters,, soaking wet feet,, aching bones,, car sickness on a crap road,, were totally worthwhile haha :lol: x
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