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Values quoted for distance and ascent in this report are according to Memory-mapOn my second morning in a cottage near Laggan, I got up before daybreak. The first day and a half of my trip had been spent on the Monadhliath. Now it was time to take full advantage of the self catering facilities, with an early breakfast and a long day. It was a dark, cloudy dawn as I drove to Dalwhinnie, but the forecast inspired optimism. I parked near the station, and the East Highland midges were trying to out-do their more notorious western neighbours. But soon I had left them behind and was walking alongside a foggy Loch Ericht.
- Loch Ericht in the early morning
Still in the fog, I moved past Ben Alder Lodge, and after a good long walk-in, I passed the closed (due to asbestos) bothy at Culra. Further on, after leaving the main path to head for the Long Leachas ridge and Ben Alder, I began to emerge from the inversion. Lancet Edge, and then Ben Alder itself, appeared above the mist.
- Lancet Edge
- Ben Alder
I crossed the Allt a' Bhealaich Bheithe and made my way towards the Long Leachas.
- Heading for the Long Leachas
- En route to the Long Leachas, looking back
On reaching the ridge, I met another walker. He'd stayed in the bothy which was still unlocked, happy that asbestos was only dangerous if disturbed. As I had a much greater distance to cover before evening, I was soon bounding up the ridge, as he followed at a more leisurely pace.
- Moving up the Long Leachas
The Long Leachas was great fun: steep, but easy scrambling all the way.
- View in retrospect from the Long Leachas
- Further up the Long Leachas
In time I reached the plateau above Coire na Leathchois, and fine, clear views opened up to the west.
- Ben Nevis from above Coire na Leathchois
From this point, easy gradients led to the summit of Ben Alder, where I encountered another walker. It was sunny, calm and warm, and we enjoyed a magnificent panorama.
- Looking west from Ben Alder's summit
He had been wild camping in the area. When I told him I'd walked from Dalwhinnie that morning, he asked if I trained for marathons or something. I looked at the size of his pack, which contained his camping gear, and replied, "I not sure what's harder; walking in all the way, or carting all that weight up here!" After a few minutes the walker from the Long Leachas arrived. We said a quick hello again, then I was moving off to take on Beinn Bheoil.
- Moving around above Garbh Choire
- Loch a' Bhealaich Bheithe and Beinn Bheoil from above Garbh Choire
I dropped off the plateau SE towards the bealach, on steep grass with patches of scree, but nothing too awkward.
- Beinn Bheoil from near Bealach Breabag
The bealach was passed, and I began to move up the broad SW ridge of Sron Coire na h-Lolaire, feeling a little tired now.
- Ben Alder from near Sron Coire na h-Lolaire
- Loch a' Bhealaich Bheithe from near Sron Coire na h-Lolaire
A slight descent followed before reaching Beinn Bheoil's SW ridge. Then came the push for the final ascent. This wasn't difficult, but on reaching the summit I felt somewhat fatigued, with the warm sun and no cooling wind. I wasn't going to complain about such conditions, though! There were lovely views...
- Southern Highlands from Beinn Bheoil
- Loch Ericht and Dalwhinnie zoomed from Beinn Bheoil - doesn't look so far, does it?
...and I was soon sorted after a short rest. So I began the descent in good spirits, continuing to admire the spectacular scenery.
- Coming down Beinn Bheoil's north ridge towards Loch Pattack and Loch Ericht
- Loch Ericht from Beinn Bheoil's north ridge
- The Leachas ridges and Lancet Edge, seen when descending from Beinn Bheoil
As I dropped lower, the views of Lancet Edge and Ben Alder I'd first seen in the morning reappeared, now mist free.
- Lancet Edge
- Ben Alder
Of course I had a long walk-out ahead, but there were views to enjoy that I'd missed in the morning fog.
- Loch Ericht in the late afternoon
The trees alongside Loch Ericht shaded me from the late afternoon sun, making things comfortable.
About 18 months earlier, I'd first seen the Alder range in all its glory (if at a distance) from Meall Chuaich. And there was that hill, as I looked over Loch Ericht during the later stages of the walk-out.
- Loch Ericht and Meall Chuaich
The easy walking between Dalwhinnie and Culra had allowed good progress, and I was back at the car with plenty of daylight left. So it was still playtime for the midges, but they weren't going to worry me after such a superb day.