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After the disappointment of failing to scale Meall Dearg on Saturday I was a bit vexed about how the week would pan out. Sunday was a good forecast, but the remainder of the week promised increasingly heavy rain - not what I wanted for a trip into the Fisherfields. I'd been eying up this pair for a while - and our recent ascent of Beinn Dearg had given us a brilliant view of this dramatic pair of Corbetts - Hill of the Bird and the Wizard's Mountain. Originally I had planned to do them from the north, but a look at the map suggested they were just as easily tackled from the south - via Coire Mhic Nobaill - this would save us having to drive anywhere. I'd read Malky's description which suggested it was preferable to ascend the steep south slopes of beinn an Eoin rather than descend over the crags. The route plotted out at around 26km which seemed a bit of an ask for a shortish autumnal day given the roughness of the terrain, so I thought we should go prepared with a tent. I decided to spare Allison's shoulders given the demands of the week ahead, and loaded most of the kit into my rucksack - which meant taking the ultralight tent
We chatted to a guy who was off up Carn an Feola with his dog at the car park - he'd done lots of the hills in the area and seemed a real enthusiast. Headed off up the track towards Ben Alligin in lovely sunshine, Allison remarking that this was the third consecutive Sunday morning she'd been up this track - not a bad to spend a Sunday
We reached the end of the track and crossed over boggy ground at the foot of Stuc Loch na Cabhaig towards Loch na Cabhaig. Ahead of us the pair of hills looked spectacular, stretching off on either side of Loch na h-Oidhche. Off to our left, Ben Alligin and her horns bore a striking resemblance to the Sphinx and the Great Pyramid, an impression not lessened by the bright sunshine on the sandstone. In the distance, Slioch crouched.
Setting off - Beinn Dearg ahead
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Al, on Flickr
Baosbheinn/Eoin
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Al, on Flickr
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Al, on Flickr
Alligin - the Sphinx
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Al, on Flickr
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Al, on Flickr
Slioch
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Al, on Flickr
We made towards Poca Buidhe, past Beinn Eighe on our right. Oh man - what scenery! There's some loss of height down to the Gorm Lochs, then we picked up the track that runs the length of Loch na h-Oidhche and up to Poca Buidhe - a notice stating this bothy was for estate use only and was monitored on CCTV. Up to our right rose the steep slabby slopes of Beinn an Eoin. Malky had gone up on the southernmost end, but that looked mental, so we opted for an easier route through the scree and boulders immediately behind Poca Buidhe. The ascent - although only about 450m was lungbusting, but redeemed by ever improving views of Baosbheinn as we gained height. We clambered to the summit and noticed a couple of other folk just beyond it - who should it be but BlackPanther and Kevin - I knew they had talked about being up this hill today, but we didn't expect to meet given they were ascending from the other side of the mountain. We chatted and took pictures then headed off along the long back of the hill together, following a good path until the northern end where the path becomes lost in slabs. Some care needed in picking a route through the slabs here, then down to the flat and boggy domain of Flowerdale Forest. We parted company at the track and headed for the Allt an Reidh-coire which we planned to follow up onto the crest of Baosbheinn.
Head on view
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Al, on Flickr
Beinn Eighe
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Al, on Flickr
Ceann Beag
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Al, on Flickr
Poca Buidhe
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Al, on Flickr
Towards Baosbheinn
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Al, on Flickr
Hard work
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Al, on Flickr
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Al, on Flickr
Looking along Beinn an Eoin
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Al, on Flickr
Summit Eoin
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Al, on Flickr
The Panther
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Al, on Flickr
Baosbheinn
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Al, on Flickr
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Al, on Flickr
View north
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Al, on Flickr
Boggy ground
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Al, on Flickr
Liathach
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Al, on Flickr
Head of Loch na h-Oidhche
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Al, on Flickr
Beinn an Eoin
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Al, on Flickr
Baosbheinn
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Al, on Flickr
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By this time it was after 4pm and evident that we were not going to get back to our starting point this day. I quite fancied camping on the wee sandy beach at Loch a'Bhealach on the other side of the mountani, although wasn't sure we'd get there before darkness fell - Baosbheinn is a big and long hill with significant ascents and descents along the way. It also has some impressive west facing cliffs off Sgorr Dubh. We followed a trail along the ridge and reached the flat summit of Baosbheinn. The views were astounding - layer upon layer of mountains to the north and east, the sea stretching away to the west. "Why don't we camp up here?" I suggested. It was dry and flat, soft and mossy under foot and there was not a breath of wind - seemed ideal. Apart from the fact that I'd never pitched this tent at altitude or been in it in any significant winds
The forecast hadn't suggested we were in for nocturnal storms, so why not go for it.
Summit Baosbheinn
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Al, on Flickr
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Fortunately there was a ready made supply of rocks to weigh the pegs down on the summit cairn
We pitched up, made tea and settled down to watch the sun set. I'll let the pictures tell the story.
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Al, on Flickr
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Al, on Flickr
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Al, on Flickr
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Af ter the sun dipped behind the horizon and the temperature dropped we snuck into the tent and huddled against the cold. All around were roaring stags on the different mountains. The moon rose bringing a white light to the night. Around 2am the wind got up and we lay awake wondering if the tent would stand up to a bit of battering. There was one dodgy moment when one of the walking poles collapsed and the back of the tent started to flap, but I nipped outside and fixed this and otherwise the tent performed brilliantly.
P1100694 by
Al, on Flickr
Dawn beckoned with a fiery glow in the east. We scrambled into warm jackets and went outside to witness the spectacle - if the sunset had been impressive the dawn was something else. The Eastern sky glowed yellow and red with the mountains - especially Liathach - blue against the skyline. As the sun rose the sky became lined with vivid pink clouds. I was reminded of Roy Batty's "Tears in Rain" monologue from Bladerunner -
I've... seen things... you people wouldn't believe. Attack ships on fire off the shoulder of Orion; I watched c-beams glitter in the dark near the Tannhäuser Gate... All those... moments... will be lost, in time, like tears... in... rain. Well, I've seen dawn from the top of Baosbheinn over the Mountains of Torridon and I'm enriched by the experience. But I'll hold off dying just for the minute, thanks all the same
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Al, on Flickr
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Al, on Flickr
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After the brilliance of the dawn faded, leaving a more prosaic skyline the surrounding hills seemed rather dull! We packed up and set off towards Ceann Beag and walking down the shoulder of that back into the boglands towards ben Alligin. A couple of hours had us back to the carpark - we cooked lunch in the tailgate of the car and enjoyed hot soup. What a great experience - this top of the mountain camping is getting under my skin
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Al, on Flickr
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Al, on Flickr
(I stopped the GPS when we got back to the track, so mileage is lower than reality)
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Al, on Flickr