
We got away mid-afternoon on Friday and had a trouble-free drive through to Edinburgh. It seemed strange going to camp in a city I'd lived in for years - indeed I used to go jogging at weekends on a route that took me past the campsite - I'd never ventured in though. We got a pitch - the only tent on the site once again - and took advantage of the kitchen to heat up the tea, and of the Stables bar for a pint and a warm by the fire before venturing out into the cold. I knew snow was forecast overnight and this came pattering on the tent roof in the small hours. It was warm inside the bags and dreich and snowy outside, so little wonder I was tardy in getting up. I had reckoned the circuit would take me 4-4.5 hours, and that there might be a couple inches snow on the hillside, that meant if I got started just before midday I could be back at the site by 5 in good time to head into Edinburgh for something to eat. Well that was the plan


I parked off the road just by the "no parking beyond this point" sign and prepared to set off. My walk took me down a track to Gladhouse cottage, then across the stream. The snow was a couple inches thick on the ground and continually flurrying into my face. I set off directly up the hillside, passing the sheepfold and ruined castle and up trackless heathery slopes of Hirendean Hill. Contrary to my expectations the snow was deep - to the knee in places where it had been trapped by the heather tussocks. This was not particularly enjoyable - the last thing I wanted to be doing was floundering through snow. I continued on towards The Kipps, able to see very little. All the while the snow was getting deeper and I was cursing my decision to take the snowshoes out of the boot on Thursday night ("I'll not be needing those this weekend"

It's going to be one of those days

Track to Gladhouse Cottage

Sheepfold/castle ruin

View back over the route

There seemed to be various ATV tracks crossing the hillside but none going my way (there are grouse butts around here). Finally I could make out a fence line and knew I had simply to follow this up to the summit of Blackhope Scar. In places there was evidence of a track - still under thick snow but more level than the heather clumps. However, there were sections of frozen bog under the snow on the track - frozen with a surface crust only, meaning you crunched through the snow and into freezing bog water of variable deepness on a frequent basis. That didn't serve to improve my humour either. The summit of the hill was further than it seemed on the map and every so often a detour would be needed to avoid deep peat hags. At last I spied the trig point - I sat down heavily on the leeward site to have my lunch and decide what to do. I was cold, miserable and the 6km this far had taken me 2 hours - it was now 1.40pm. I looked at the map as I slurped my coffee - there were 12km still to go, albeit over fairly flat terrain, a drop and gain of 50m here and there over Bowbeat and Dundreich Hills, but the likelihood was that it would be an ongoing slog over deep snow / heather. That meant another 4 hours potentially - i'd be lucky to get down in the light and my plans to head into Edinburgh would be hampered. I just wasn't feeling much appetite for more of this misery today - I think ever since my Ben Lui escapade I have developed something of an aversion to hours spent floundering in deep soft snow. I elected to turn around and head back. That meant another visit to this area would be needed to get the remaining 2 Donalds - not good for my schedule


Blackhope Scar Summit

(Not) a happy man

My footprints had already been eradicated by the wind and fresh snow, so there was no track to follow, just the same amount of pitching forward footstep after footstep into deep white stuff. I decided to head west off The Kipps and make for the track that descended to Clinty Cleuch. The snow was deep on each side of the gully but I didn't reckon the avalanche risk was large. By the time I reached the floor of the valley and followed the track along the South Esk river, I was glad I'd chosen this route - a 4x4 had been out earlier in the day compressing the snow and making walking much easier. This brightened my spirits a little, although the snow continued to flurry against me. I walked past the cottage and back onto the track. By this time the snow had temporarily abated and the sky had brightened a bit, enabling me to see the outline of the hill I'd just been up. I tramped back to the car enjoying the antics of some crows. To my left was the water of Gladhouse reservoir, bushes and trees dusted white.
Easier going (!) on the valley floor track


Yeah, I was up there

Gladhouse Reservoir


i drove back to the campsite, picked up Allison who had spent the afternoon reading in the tent, and we set off into town on a Number 11 bus. The snow had resumed and was coming down heavily, lying on the road and making christmas card scenes of the houses. I did worry a little if the bus would be able to return up here later on should the snow continue to fall. We stepped off at Tollcross and wandered up to the Royal Mile - the weather had improved now, it was dry. We made for the baked potato shop on Cockburn Street, an old favourite, and munched veggie haggis and bean filled spuds "sitting in" then set off through the Grassmarket for a drink. I'd researched options for beer and The Hanging Bat on Lothian Road had been selected. 26 different craft beers on tap met our gaze as we entered, and we passed a couple of pleasant hours samling some of their wares. I think the final sup - a can of Beaverton's Lord Smog Almighty Imperial Smoked Porter, weighing in at a hefty 11% was probably one too many as I was a little delicate in the morning

Anyway, most of the snow had gone on the journey back, although it was icy walking from the bus stop to the tent. It was going to be a cold night - glad we had a few beers inside to insulate a little

Tinto from the car park


She's out and about again

About halfway up Allison put the crampons on for a bit, but reported feeling stupid. The path soon went from slippy to gravelly and she was able to remove them again. Over to our left, on Scaut Hill, the heather burning had been carried out in strange circular/ovoid shapes which seemed unusual in the snow - you've seen the Long Man of Wilmington and the White Horse of Uffington - welcome to the Paramecium and Amoeba of Tinto






"The Paramecium of Tinto"

Weather threatens

Almost there..


View South

