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There's something wonderful about waking up in the middle of nowhere with the sound of a river nearby, then crawling out of the tent and seeing the red sky and the sun starting to rise above the hills
What was less fabulous was that I didn't sleep well, I had a rock sticking into my back, I was cold and when I finally did get to sleep I got woken up by Hugh arriving at 2am thanks to a delayed flight...
But actually, the former still outweigh the latter
It was extremely cold so we dressed very quickly and got a stove on boiling some water. Thinking that keeping moving was the key to keeping warm (I already had ALL of my clothes on!), I left Hugh to man the stove and went to get the tent down; it was covered in frost, and when I went to tidy up my pot, the water I had left in it was frozen solid....
so I had to free my spork. Chilly!
Next challenge, logistics for the day....leaving one car at the top of the Etive road, we drove down together. This road was a first for both of us, and it was totally stunning; it was a beautiful morning and the mountains were looking wonderful.
View from the top of the Etive road
Looking down Glencoe
Arriving at the parking area, we booted up and set off down the track. Two minutes later we were back at the car for the sun cream - I had noticed the big yellow thing in the sky
Setting off for real this time, we followed the track to the bridge, then skirted around the house and followed the path to the next bridges (well I did, Hugh decided he knew better and ended up in a bog
)
Route up Starav
We could see our route up Starav and it looked unrelenting
As we started up the path, we realised that it was a lot hotter than when we dressed at 6, so had to stop to lose a lot of clothes. Annoyed with myself for leaving my shorts in the car, I decided to try a new look and rolled up my trousers
Carrying on, we noticed some lovely looking rock pools and were tempted to dive in, but elected to save it until later.
Off we go...
Glas Bheinn Mhor - target number 3
The backside of the Glencoe hills
The path started winding round, and eventually Hugh realised we had missed the path - sadly I had trusted him with the initial navigation as my map helpfully didn't quite have this bit... Overjoyed with this development (
) we had to cut back up onto the ridge and finally found the path.
Still a long way to go...
Hugo looking a like a frog
Glas Bheinn Mhor
From here it really was straightforward in terms of nav. The path was clear but very steep. With the sun beating down on our backs, we pushed on in the heat, legs complaining
Views from further up: Starav
The ridge for later with Glas Bheinn Mhor
A quick break
We took regular breaks to enjoy the views (honest!) as it really was a stunning day. Eventually we reached the final scramble - it was very rocky but there was nothing too exposed or difficult and there was a clear route the whole way.
The final scramble
Crags on the scramble
Looking backwards
Finally scrambling over the top we found ourselves at the summit rather more suddenly than we had expected after the long toil up the ridge. Knackered but relieved, we set about taking in the views from our highest point of the day. It was wonderful to be able to stand on top of a mountain in tshirt and shorts and enjoy views for miles in every direction
Glencoe hills
Loch Etive and Beinn Trilleachan
Beinn Fhionnlaidh and Sgurr na h-Ulaid
Ben Cruachan
Triumphant
Towards Glencoe
Hugh in front of Glas Bheinn Mhor
We had a quick sandwich here and then followed the path along to a cairn in the middle, and then along to the ridge out to the Eastern top.
The ridge ahead
Hugh arriving at the narrow bit
In his instructions, Steve Fallon suggests keeping to the crest of the ridge (rather than taking the bypass path) as it's much more fun; always up for a challenge I decided to see if he was right - he was
I was having a great time scrambling along the top; the rock was really grippy and the drop wasn't bothering me at all. I got about half way along and could see Hugh waiting near the other end; deciding that I didn't want to have to deal with cranky pants for the rest of the day, I got a move on
Hugh had found a path going down before the eastern top - I thought it was too early, but as he was convinced it would bend round and cut off the extra ascent I didn't have much choice. It was very steep and was like walking/sliding down scree; it did then bend round a little but the terrain was very rocky and difficult. Soon we found ourselves scrambling down some big rocks and across boggy pathless ground.
Looking across to Beinn nan Aighenan
I could hear a stream somewhere nearby and suggested we divert a little to top up water supplies as it was such a hot day. This was very welcome and we felt refreshed! We headed for the coll before the climb up to Beinn nan Aighenan and at last we were on a path. Yet another of Hugh's 'shortcuts'...
although we at least got some water out of it.
The path was clear across the bealach and then up the steep climb. It wasn't as bad as it looked; there was a good deal of scrambling but nothing difficult and the climb was actually enjoyable. We started to meet lots of people as we neared the top - one guy running
and plenty of other walkers. It was nice to meet people after the relative solitude so far. Finally reaching the top, we topped up on jelly babies and soaked up the views whilst chatting to a guy who was already there.
Success!
Looking back to Starav
The ridge we had to get back to
Loch Etive and Cruachan
The Black Mount
Two panorama shots
We could see that we had a long way to go so after a short break we got going. The route itself was simple - retrace our steps to the bealach and then follow the path back to the ridge. The execution was much trickier; we felt tired by now and the pace had slowed somewhat.
Looking down the Allt Hallater
Back up to Aighenan
Finally reaching the ridge we came upon a man sitting on a rock, he was waiting for his brother in law (who we had met near the top of BNA) and a lot of me felt envious of him being able to sit and enjoy the views. If all went to plan, we still had 3 summits to go....
Back on the ridge, Glas Bheinn Mhor in the distance
Glencoe hills again
Heading along the ridge we had to go steeply upwards initially before reaching a flatter bit. The ridge itself was very enjoyable despite the heat and we were able to see for miles. We walked over some bumps in the ridge before coming to the final ascent up to Glas Bheinn-Mhor; it looked a long way up.... And it was. The sun was unrelenting and the path long and steep so I set a steady pace and got on with it.
Starav from the summit of Glas Bheinn Mhor
Nevis
Hugo looking happy
Starav
P1040917 by
Jackie Baxter, on Flickr
Finally reaching the top I waited for Hugh to catch up and we sat down and enjoyed the rest of our sandwiches. Looking towards our potential next 2 targets, they looked a long way off... I voiced the question "do we really want to do this?" I was sure we
could do it...but the last ascent had been tough and I wanted to enjoy the next 2. I suggested that they would make a nice winter duo and the decision was made; there was no point pushing on for the sake of 2 blue blobs.
With no more pressure, we were able to enjoy the descent. It was steep down to the bealach and we could see the path up the other side...it looked relentless! We followed the path down the Glen next to a stream with some lovely waterfalls.
Looking back up to Glas Bheinn Mhor
Starav
Waterfalls
Seeing some lovely rock pools, we decided to stop for a wee paddle. Taking the boots off felt so good and although the water was freezing, it was really refreshing. It was lovely to stop and sit and enjoy being in such a beautiful location on a day when we could enjoy it; I thought back to the man on the rock at the bealach and realised he had got it sorted!
Our rock pool paradise
Hugh showing a bit of leg
(I wasn't going to post this one but he wanted to world to see it
)
Feeling suitably refreshed, we dried our feet in the sun and put our boots back on which was less pleasant. The rest of the way down the glen was a case of one foot in front of the other and enjoying the views. We were tired and very glad that we had called it a day when we had.
Back up to the ridge and Glas Bheinn Mhor
Starav and the ridge
Nearly back in glen Etive
Looking up again
Reaching the car, we were very relieved to get our boots off for good, and headed for Glencoe where we were hoping to find somewhere to stay - we ended up camping again but were very glad of a hot shower. Heading for the Clachaig Inn, we enjoyed a pub dinner, rehydrated ourselves and met the Munro Bagpiper! A perfect day