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Second day of my Ullapool trip and as I drove to Inverlael the sky was overcast and the cloud-base down to about 700 metres. I'd been looking forward to this walk into an intriguing group of wild hills, so I was somewhat disappointed that the weather seemed to be ignoring the good forecast
However, it was early in the day and I began the long walk up Gleann na Sguaib with the hopeful feeling that things would improve.
From the car park a gate opens onto a vehicle track. At the waterworks a sign confirms that you're on track for Beinn Dearg. Another sign points the way at a bifurcation just before the bridge, then another where the path for Seana Braigh branches off. Eventually a small hydroelectric dam appears through the trees and you come to a gate which marks the end of the forestry plantations and the beginning of open country. A bike would be useful up to this point.
- Out of the woods - the path heading up Gleann na Sguaib
The low cloud persisted for some time, but I was heartened by the call of the cuckoo from the birches on the craggy hillside on the right. It's a looong way up the valley, and eventually the top of a mighty crag peeped out of the mist to herald the breaking up of the cloudy ceiling.
Gradually, only wreaths of white mist were left trailing across the glistening cliffs, and the full grandeur of Beinn Dearg was revealed. I was spellbound.
- Mist clearing from the cliffs of Beinn Dearg
It promised to be an enchanting day of mountain magic.
- Lochan Lathail below the bealach
This was no time to be rushing about; it was a time to stand and stare, frequently; to savour the late spring light on rock and turf and water; to breathe in deeply the pure mountain air. I was in no hurry. I wouldn't be breaking any records. This was the tenor of the day.
- Lochan Lathail reflecting Beinn Dearg's cliffs
- The mighty cliffs of Beinn Dearg
- Nearly at the bealach, looking back down Coire Mathair Lathail
- At the Bealach an Lochain Uaine looking to Meall nan Ceapraichean
Reaching the bealach on this walk is a significant moment, being the focal point. It's a place of great atmosphere and interest with its scattering of outcrops and lochans.
- Shortcut across a snowfield to join the wall leading up Beinn Dearg
- Ptarmigan at the bealach, south ridge of Cona' Mheall behind
- Cona' Mheall
- Seana Braigh from the summit of Beinn Dearg
- The Fannaichs
I spent a long time on the summit of Beinn Dearg. It was a wonderful place to be.
- Summit cairn, Beinn Dearg
- Coigach hills on horizon, Meall nan Ceapraichean on right
- Coire Ghranda
- Beinn Dearg from the slopes of Cona' Mheall
- View east from Cona' Mheall, featuring Gleann Beag
- Meall nan Ceapraichean from Cona' Meall
- South ridge of Cona' Mheall
The first human I met was a runner. She was on her way up Cona' Mheall as I was coming down it. A brief 'hello' dissolved in the breeze.
She overtook me just before the summit of Meall nan Ceapraichean, where she stopped for a brief drink and then off again. I had no intention of trying to keep up.
- Eididh nan Clach Geala from the descent off Ceann Garbh
The descent of the Ceann Garbh slope of Meall nan Ceapraichean has only a sketchy path and could be tricky to navigate in poor visibility.
- The Coigach peaks, Stac Pollaidh centre, from Eididh nan Clach Geala
I spent a long time on the summit of Eididh nan Clach Geala. It was a wonderful place to be.
- Zoom shot of Cul Mor and Suilven
- An Teallach
- Looking back up Gleann na Sguaib to Meall nan Ceapraichean and Beinn Dearg
This marvellous walk had brought back to me something of the wonder and excitement I had felt when I first discovered the hills. It had cast a powerful spell. If I'd done nothing more this trip, I'd have been well satisfied.