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Despite the vagaries of the weather this summer, I've been fortunate to have had a number of great hill days and this day was no exception. Having experienced it now for myself, I can truly see why so many people list Ben Alligin (Gaelic: Mountain of Beauty) as their favourite Munro. There are many superlatives for it.
This was Day 4 of a 5 day 'summer holiday'. The original plan had been to spend the whole week in Northwest Scotland walking, kayaking and camping. As anyone at the Inchnadamph Meet will testify it definitely wasn't T-shirt and shorts weather and it was more of a case of seeking out Plan B's and hoping for a break in the weather.
This particular day had started at Tore close to Inverness where I was resting and drying out from the previous days exertions on Am Teallach and the Western Fannichs. The weather was largely pants and had that 'Rest Day' feel about it. I had considered going to Chanonry Point to check out the sea life but decided on a whim to head down to Inverness instead to get a better WiFi signal to catch up on some work
and make sure the World hadn't fallen apart in my absence. Thankfully it hadn't and I ended up doing more important stuff like reading walk reports on WH
as well checking out the ever-changing weather for the n’th time. A trip to those dangerous outdoor shops had been a consideration but the thought of tackling the traffic on the Longman Industrial Estate was enough to banish that idea.
Weatherwise, bar the Outer Hebrides, the forecast for the day in the northern half of the country was for rain, rain and more rain with poor/very poor visibility in the hills. Thankfully there was a chink of light on the Met Office forecast out west in Torridon where it was expected to improve around early evening with sun and good visibility around 7 & 8pm. A summit camp was an immediate consideration but the wind speeds of 20+ had me oohing and arrghing. I decided against the idea of the camp as I wanted to do the full traverse and do something with my day on Friday. With this metrological improvement, I mobilised and headed off to Torridon. Given that the decent weather wasn't due until late, I knew I wasn't in any particular hurry so decided to adopt a campervan style speed out; a chance for revenge! After various breaks en-route to brew up tea and hot chocolate, get changed and take endless pictures of moody, wet and overcast scenes.
IMG_1374 by
Hugh Summerton, on Flickr
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Hugh Summerton, on Flickr
I got to the start point/car park just before 4pm. Looking up I could see there was clag, but thankfully it was showing signs of abating.
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Hugh Summerton, on Flickr
I duly followed the WH route up the west side of the river, moving swiftly to avoid the little blighters. Whilst it was muddy and soggy underfoot, I made good progress and made doubly sure I didn’t become a cropper on the stile at the deer fence; clearly not used to getting my leg over! Inside I was feeling all excited and pumped by the prospect of what was up above and I enjoyed the fast direct ascent. As I ascended up the Coir the sky turned blue and looking back the views were opening up and getting better and better.
IMG_1383 by
Hugh Summerton, on Flickr
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Hugh Summerton, on Flickr
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Hugh Summerton, on Flickr
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Hugh Summerton, on Flickr
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Hugh Summerton, on Flickr
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Hugh Summerton, on Flickr
As I topped out up near the summit of Tom Na Gruagaich, I could feel the wind picking up and decided to stop briefly to add another layer. As well as being taken aback by the power of the wind, I was in complete awe of my surroundings. I guess it was underlined by my choice of expletives at the magic views of Sgurr Mor and the Horns. Wowsers!
2016-08-04 17.42.52 by
Hugh Summerton, on Flickr
IMG_1406 by
Hugh Summerton, on Flickr
Whilst it doesnt show in photos, it was bloody windy. I spent about 10 minutes cosied up next to the cairn, holding on at times for what felt like dear life. I was struggling to hold my camera firmly and if somebody had seen me with my mobile trying to take selfies, they would have thought I was waving such was the intensity of the wind. Whilst playing the ‘vane’ game at the summit, the prospect of the wind on the Horns started to momentarily play on my mind. Given the improving visibility and other things that I had encountered that day (earlier that day I had read the Unknown Comics Walk Report on Carn Aosda – there’s food for thought) there was no way I was going to back out!
I pushed on taking numerous photos (too many in fact).
IMG_1421 by
Hugh Summerton, on Flickr
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Hugh Summerton, on Flickr
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Hugh Summerton, on Flickr
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Hugh Summerton, on Flickr
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Hugh Summerton, on Flickr
Once over the minor top of Beinn Alligin, the clag was playing mind games with me. Thankfully though by the time I got to the cleft, it had cleared and the wind had died down to a gentle breeze.
IMG_1431 by
Hugh Summerton, on Flickr
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Hugh Summerton, on Flickr
As is the way, by the time I had reached the summit of Sgurr Mor, the clag had come back. I decided to have a short rest and a bite to eat whilst the clag did its thing. Thankfully it did past and the views north to Baosbheinn, the countless lochs and lochans, the Horns, Beinn Dearg etc (in every direction) were sensational with a broken spectre to boot
IMG_1432 by
Hugh Summerton, on Flickr
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Hugh Summerton, on Flickr
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Hugh Summerton, on Flickr
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Hugh Summerton, on Flickr
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Hugh Summerton, on Flickr
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Hugh Summerton, on Flickr
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Hugh Summerton, on Flickr
Given that there was an obvious path over the Horns, I didn’t really feel all that daunted as I dropped off the side of Sgurr Mor. It took me about 20 minutes to descend to the bealach and probably not much more than 5 minutes to climb up the first Horn.
IMG_1449 by
Hugh Summerton, on Flickr
Whilst I can't claim to be a big fan of exposure, I do find having a prescribed, obvious route really helps bolster one’s confidence. The scramble wasn’t at all difficult and I enjoyed the airy walk along its summit. Had it been blowing a hoolie, I would have probably been a lot more cautious and no doubt crawling in places. On the 2nd Horn, I think I missed the obvious route and found myself doing climbing of sorts but was fine and enjoying my surrounds. The 3rd Horn presented no difficulties whatsoever.
IMG_1455 by
Hugh Summerton, on Flickr
From the 3rd Horn begins the descent down to the Glen. The route down is quick but requires a lot of concentration as you drop down a very rock-studded steep-sided An t-Sail Beg. Thankfully for me most of the rock and drop downs were dry. I found in parts the scramble down was more challenging than the Horns themselves.
IMG_1457 by
Hugh Summerton, on Flickr
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Hugh Summerton, on Flickr
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Hugh Summerton, on Flickr
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Hugh Summerton, on Flickr
The route out back to the car was a joy to behold. The point where Allt a Bhealaich meets Abhain Coire Mhic Nobuil must surely count as one of the truly greatest places to stand in Scotland. It was fantastic just standing there with Ben Alligin, Beinn Dearg, Beinn Eighe and Liathach under evening blue sky for company. Both of my cameras were working over time. I felt elated!
IMG_1466 by
Hugh Summerton, on Flickr
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Hugh Summerton, on Flickr
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Hugh Summerton, on Flickr
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Hugh Summerton, on Flickr
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Hugh Summerton, on Flickr
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Hugh Summerton, on Flickr
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Hugh Summerton, on Flickr
Once I got back to the car just before 9pm, I decided I would camp close by and headed for Shieldaig at least where I knew could get some height and respite from the midgies. Once camp had been set up, I was able to enjoy a few beers with my boil in the bag dinner whilst taking in the views back (see below) across the Loch of these sublime wonders! These are a MUST for any hill walker and I will definitely be back for another date and a summit camp.
IMG_1478 by
Hugh Summerton, on Flickr
