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Most of us would agree, a round of hills such as the Munros or the Wainwrights is more than just a ticking exercise. It means some great days out, and travels to many different parts of the region in question. But many summits are only fleetingly visited, hopping from one to another along ridges. This can give some superb walking and magnificent views, but also misses out on a lot that many of the hills visited have to offer. Climbing each of Wainwright's 214 fells individually brings you more in touch with the character of each one. This also introduces plenty of fine approaches via side ridges, gills and valleys, that would otherwise be missed.
So I arrived in Ambleside on a cloudy Sunday morning, but with an improving forecast. Climbing High Pike would complete a round of Wainwrights by direct ascent. Then what? Hartsop above How and Hartsop Dodd were the two Wainwrights in the Eastern and Far Eastern fells I'd been away from for longest, so a route was contrived taking them both in.
Walking along Scandale, the cloud began to lift from Low Pike and High Pike, but kept hanging around.
- Low Pike and High Pike from Scandale
There were one or two spells of light drizzle before I started climbing.
- High Pike directly in front
The ascent was steep, but not too difficult. It was largely on grass, with a few stones. Underfoot conditions were slippery, so care was required, and hands used occasionally. In drier conditions, hands might not be needed.
- Scandale in retrospect from the ascent
- Windermere seen from the ascent
So I arrived on High Pike, completing my direct ascent agenda. There was a partial view from the summit, but the route ahead would lead into the clag. Three men from Brno in the Czech Republic appeared at the summit. They were on a wild camping trek, and heading for Helvellyn via Fairfield.
- Looking north from High Pike
The Czechs set off before me, heading north while I ate something. I caught up with them on Dove Crag, with not a lot to see. At least it wasn't raining. I met them again on Hart Crag, still in cloud. As they set off for Fairfield, I said ,,na shledanou" and moved off towards Hartsop above How.
- Descending ENE from Hart Crag
There had been fewer people than might have been expected between High Pike and Hart Crag, considering it's a section of the Fairfield Horseshoe. But one or two were climbing Hart Crag via the ridge by which I was descending.
- Moving towards Hartsop above How
I was soon below the mist, and enjoying views from Hartsop above How.
- Lower end of Dovedale from the Hartsop above How ridge
The cloud continued to clear, as I made my way down.
- Looking back to Hart Crag and Fairfield while descending
- Patterdale valley from the Hartsop above How ridge
- Angletarn Pikes from the descent
- Brothers Water and Hartsop Dodd from the ridge above Cow Bridge
When I 'landed' at Cow Bridge car park, it was time to put on suncream. Anyone doing this circuit on a budget could have started and finished here, saving the Ambleside parking charges. But as the High Pike direct ascent had been my primary target, I wanted to make sure of getting that done. And on a day trip, contributing to the area's economy isn't something I begrudge after the devastation caused by Storm Desmond last year.
I've no plans as such for a second round of direct ascents, but as I'd descended to valley level, the subsequent ascent of Hartsop Dodd would have earned the first tick!
- Ascending Hartsop Dodd, looking back at Brothers Water and Ullswater
Some say this summit is unremarkable, but it's reached after a lovely climb from Hartsop with great views in retrospect.
- Helvellyn from Hartsop Dodd
Moving along the ridge to Caudale Moor (Stony Cove Pike), I looked back north, and could see the Southern Uplands, an area I had visited about a week earlier, on the far horizon. The summit was reached - it's more of a plateau than a pike, but has good views.
- Looking north from Stony Cove Pike
- Scafell range from Stony Cove Pike
- Froswick and Ill Bell from Stony Cove Pike
Next I made my way to St. Raven's Edge. This wasn't one of Wainwright's favourite places, or maybe he was just in a bad mood when he visited and wrote about it. I thought there were some decent views from here.
- Kirkstone Pass and Red Screes from St. Raven's Edge
- Wansfell, seen between two sections of Windermere, from St. Raven's Edge
Again, on the section of the walk from Hartsop, I'd encountered people here and there, but not many. One place that wasn't going to be so quiet was the A592. I think Caudale Moor to Wansfell is the only ridge route from Wainwright's pictorial guides that crosses an 'A' road. After looking both ways, I was heading for Wansfell, at first over flat, marshy ground. Things became a bit drier underfoot as the gentle ascent began.
- En route to Wansfell, looking back at Red Screes and Caudale Moor
When I arrived at Baystones (Wansfell's summit), I was still in warm sunshine. But cloud was bubbling up in the south and west, with higher peaks over there becoming obscured.
- Looking west from Wansfell (Baystones)
Next I moved along the undulating and, in places, marshy ridge to Wansfell Pike. This is a popular top, easily reached from Ambleside, so I was quite surprised to have it to myself. It's a great viewpoint.
- Caudale Moor, Thornthwaite Crag and Ill Bell range from Wansfell Pike
- Windermere from Wansfell Pike
As I made my final descent to Amlbeside, I did meet a few people coming up.
- Coming back down to Ambleside
I reached the car at 6:55 pm, late enough to avoid the heaviest of the traffic leaving the Lake District on a pleasant Sunday afternoon.
So, I now claim to have climbed each of the 214 Wainwrights by direct ascent. Of course, what classes as a direct ascent and what doesn't is a matter of opinion, as with any other 'rules' concerning hill bagging. What really counts is having found a good number of new and interesting routes to climb familiar Lakeland fells.