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My love affair with Assynt, and its description, is well documented in previous trip reports. It is such a unique landscape that fills me with wonderment, I like to lose myself in Assyntland from time to time. It is otherworldly, it is awe inspiring, and when the sun shines it evokes the need for adventure. There is no other place I’d rather be, sure as hell beats Glasgow
The roots of this trip began in my favourite vegan Café Thursday evening in “The 78” having dinner with Polly and Mountainthyme. I was down to run the Glasgow 10k but actually felt like a walk would be best. So MT and I decided to walk Sunday and I would give my place to Polly’s man Garry, a man of many events.
On Thursday evening I checked the weather. Assynt, along with most of Scotland, looked incredible. Friday morning my mind was made up to head to Assynt. I booked a single room for two nights in Ullapool and was on my way. I let MT know I probably wouldn’t walk Sunday with her. She was fine with this, she was busy anyway it turns out.
Friday evening I wandered around the harbour and coastline, the ferry setting sail for Stornoway.
Views to Beinn Dearg Four
Summer Isles and Ben More Coigach
Loch Broom
Ullapool was utterly heaving with teeny boppers in wellies – it was the Loopallu Music Festival!
I had managed to get in via the rocky coastline but headed early as had an early rise. The sun now fading, shimmering against the water…
I had a clear plan of what I’d be doing this weekend, firstly it was Quinag and its 3 Corbett’s.
I woke at 6am and was soon on my way. Suited and booted and walking for 7.30am, the sun blinding the path ahead. There was one other walker who left not long after me, we would chat on my 3rd Corbett and his 2nd. But for now I was solo and enjoying the freedom of being alone in the mountains.
Soon I was on the ridge leading to Spidean Coinich, the views splendid towards Suilven & friends.
The going was pretty easy, how could it not be with all that distraction! Spidean Coinich done, and moving on…
Cloud reflections in little lochans.
Looking back…
The way ahead to Sail Gharbh…
I reached the summit! I sat here and ate some food. I was having a pretty good time up high in the mountains
More clouds, without the lochan accessory.
The ridge ahead looked straight forward, so off I went on my merry way…
Looking back to SC from SG.
Nearing the summit of Sail Gorm and looking back at the ridge I just walked.
Summit Selfie! Sat here for 20 minutes milking the awesome views then made my journey back to the car.
On route back I bumped into Andi & Joni, I had rented their studio in Braes end of May. Lovely couple who informed me they just sold their house. Next for them was a trekking holiday in India before settling for a new life in France. Really nice people, I was very happy for them and wished them well.
Next on my hit list would be a return to Achmelvich Beach, but this time I’d be exploring its rocky SW aspect and searching for the Hermits Castle.
Sublime views to Suilven & Canisp before dropping down to the bay proper. I sat here for half an hour and watched seals relaxing in the sun.
Next I was wandering around SW rocks, the view back to the sandy beach incredible with Suilven & Canisp in the distance….
The North Bay – Spent many a good time here
Suilven & Canisp zoomed.
The Coast
Views out to sea. Lewis and Harris easily visible in the distance.
So then it was time to find that castle! It really was tiny, obviously fit for a hermit.
Being so close to Lochinver only meant one thing! Yep, it was pie time
. I sat beside the water and enjoyed a broccoli, cauliflower, fried onion, and cheese pie with mash, gravy and peas. All washed down with a can of Scotland’s finest – irn bru! Well it’s nice to indulge now and again, yeah?!
I had pointed out Ardmair Point as a potential for a decent sunset. I drove the 30 minutes or so, and I was not disappointed. A great way to finish a fantastic day wandering around Assynt.
Back at my digs I enjoyed a shower and a tasty beer. Tomorrow I would do Cul Mor, a mountain I’d yet to conquer.
Again I was first on the mountain, it was 8am. One man and his dog left soon afterwards.
This morning’s target.
The clarity was incredible, Suilven ever present and felt almost in reach.
I was really enjoying this walk. It felt super remote walking across the barren desolate lunar like landscape, I was in the zone
There is a sharp pull over a boulder field to the summit, which was really good fun. And there I was standing on the summit with the most incredible views, I felt privileged, gobsmacked and elated.
The views to Stac Polly, BMC & the Summer Isles very impressive.
Stac Polly zoomed.
BMC & Stac Polly Pano.
The wind was blowing hard, it was a tad cold up there. I put on an insulated jacket and dropped down out of the wind, Suilven my visual treat. I ate some banana flap jacks and sat a while.
On route back down the boulder field I got chatting to the man and his dog, not the dog obviously as they don’t speak human yet. The man was up from Cardiff for a couple of weeks, he had great weather ahead of him.
One last photo of the mighty Suilven – Mountain Porn at its finest!
On route back to the car I met Joni again, she was out getting some fitness in for India. Andi was cycling around Assynt on his bike. We had a chat and said our goodbyes. Then nearing the finish a small bird would stop on the path in front of me and as I got closer it would then fly about 10 meters ahead. This pattern continued for about 60 meters. I think it was guiding me, I was on the right path now.
Got back to the car at 11.50am, driving for noon. Destination one hour away at Gruinard Bay.
Arrived at Gruinard Bay and was astonished to find I had it all to myself.
I always head for the second mound on the NE tip as this provides the best views, well in my opinion.
Spectacular views in every direction.
I sat here for over two hours, lost in my thoughts and the surroundings.
I spotted an ant in a sea shell filled with water. I was unsure if it was drowning and fighting for its life, or merely enjoying an open top bath to cool down in the searing heat. I decided to empty out, it could always have a bath later again if needed!
Knowing I had a 5 hour drive home I left around 4pm, a last wander along the sandy beach before gazing to the sky and looking at the sun and the clouds.
Absolutely brilliant weekend in my favourite part of Scotland, fills the soul with untold joy and happiness.
Here's hoping the weather gods play ball for my friends compleation next weekend on Mull, guiding on the Ben the following one, and the WH meet in Kintail end of the month. Bring on the snow