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An Teallach … An Teallach … sounds to conjure with … somehow it seems wrong to call this a mountain – its a whole mountain range, 9 peaks – 2 Munros and 7 tops.
One of my abiding memories is being on the 9am flight from Stornoway to Inverness in early January many years ago. Dawn was just breaking on a magical winter's morning – everything was crystal clear and with no wind the Minch was like a millpond. Even the pilot was impressed, he told us he had never seen this landscape looking so spectacular, so flew as low as possible to give us all a good view. There had been a full moon the night before and it hung low over An Teallach, as we flew east past it the sun rose above the horizon turning the snow covered upper slopes and the moon pink – the massive forge was warming up – everyone in the plane was in awe.
Well it's one thing looking at a beautiful mountain – it's another climbing it. To be honest I was afraid of breaking the magic of that flight … and afraid of the mountain itself – the brother of a friend lost his life there. I knew I'd have to go on a clear day, but not in winter, at least not for the first venture. As I've got older I've become a real feartie so that ruled out the pinnacles. So that would be it then, up and down the easy way. That decision made, it has still taken a long time to put boots on the hill – every year there was somewhere else to walk, different hills to bag, then as summer 2016 was ending we decided this autumn would be the right time, we aimed for the last weekend in September but the weather gods had other ideas; the first weekend in October came with perfect conditions. So, no excuses then?
Dawn breaking to perfect conditions on the east coast before we left
Reflections on the way at Loch Glasscarnoch
No problems finding the start of the walk and by 9:20 we were off and primed to find the old, and more interesting, route up.
Early views north
We did debate turning off the path quite early onto a fainter path which led upwards, but our OS map showed the path up Meall Garbh further east, so east we went – and along the new route. I was not best pleased, particularly since the walk along the corrie could be almost anywhere, I wanted special here, this was my special mountain.
Glas Mheall Mor came into view and did its best to be special
The view to the Beinn Deargs left me in no doubt that I was somewhere special, even if I couldn't quite see it yet.
As we gained height the Assynt hills came into view
Once onto the coll beyond Sron a Choire we stopped by a large cairn for sustenance – things were beginning to look exciting, I stopped being grumpy about the route up and began thinking of other things … like “can I really do this?” We walked over the sandstone pavement to get our first good look at the north side of Bidein a Ghlas Thuil. With the sun in my eyes all I could see was an enormous, steep, black rock face in front of me – immediate panic … “Can I get up that?”. “Yes”, said Roger. I shielded my eyes and saw the path … relief … “Yes, of course I can get up that!” A little voice deep inside said “that looks easy” but I didn't take any notice, I know that voice – it doesn't always tell the truth.
Path visible here (just)...
From this point on I was just so happy to be here – no more doubts, the day was turning out just as I wished. Fabulous mountain and wonderful, wonderful landscape.
West to Gruniard Bay and Loch Ewe
The fabled first view of the Fair Fiona and Friends ...
… and closer
From here the summit of Bidein a Ghlas Thuil was a gentle stroll and more photo opportunities ...
Glas Mheall Laith
Little Loch Broom, Beinn Ghobhlach and the Summer Isles
Looking out to the Western Isles with Clisham just about visible on the horizon
Over to Assynt and Sutherland
Ben More Assynt and Conival
Ben Klibreck
And 2 photos just to prove were were here, we did reach this magical place …
We ate lunch part 1 at the summit of Bidein a Ghlas Thuil just soaking up the views until the chilly wind persuaded us to move on to our next goal.
That iconic view of mountains and lochan ...
… sadly taken at the wrong time of day to do it justice.
A dramatic close up
On the way up Sgurr Fiona, looking back at the descent route ...
… then onto the summit and another classic view - this time to Corrag Buidhe
The summit was occupied when we got there by a weaver from Skye, but there was room for the two of us to join her. Given that its a small summit it provided very decent rock armchairs, whose comfort belied the dangers of a quick exit downwards. Here we had lunch part 2 and a very amicable blether with the young woman from Skye.
South there was a stunning view down Strath na Sealga with the fetching Beinn Dearg Mor centre stage backed by the Fisherfields
The ridge from Bidein a Ghlas Thuil to Glas Mheall Laith – with a Panama hat
The same ridge zoomed with Ben Klibreck on the horizon
Looking west along the Sgurr Creag an Eich ridge to Wester Ross and beyond
Beinn Dearg Mor and the Fisherfields … looking forward to exploring here
Eventually the cold wind got the better of us here too, and we headed down. A slightly different angle on Loch Toll and Lochan – somewhere that is inviting an exploration in its own right.
The Fannaichs
Farewell Fair Fiona and Friends
And so we headed home … unable to spot the path that would take us over the ridge of Meall Gharbh we went back the same way we had come, with almost as much flack from me.
Route downwards
At least on the return we had lovely views north, and the light was improving as the sun started to go down too.
The Beinn Dearg group with the flank of Glas Mheall Mor
Almost down – looking over Strath Beag towards Ben Mor Coigach
There is a maze of paths on these lower slopes, and several wrong choices left us following a route that was wetter and scramblier than the one we had come up. I can be stoical about it now, but made some choice comments at the time. Still we made it back to the car in reasonable time. Couldn't resist a final photo of An Teallach in silhouette
As well as having a wonderful day hill bagging on this amazing landscape I feel that I've had an introduction to a world that requires much more careful exploration. Even if I never scale the pinnacles, or even the 2 Munros again, I'll be back to explore further.