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With an unusually heavy dump of snow on the fells for November, and a week of clear blue skies and frosty nights, I was chomping at the bit to get up there but had to wait 'till Saturday. By Friday the forecast was still good, so it was just a matter of deciding where to go. After much delightful pondering of several options I decided on Blencathra by the classic traverse of Sharp Edge and Halls Fell. From what I'd seen of Blencathra through the week it looked as though there was plenty of snow on it (Blencathra doesn't always hold the snow for long) and I was hoping there would still be enough by Saturday to yield a proper winter traverse.
Driving along the A66 I could see there was still a good amount of snow, but it was beginning to thin out, as it is wont to do on the south-facing slopes. It didn't look like full-on alpine conditions, but I thought the traverse would still be interesting enough for so early in the winter.
I parked in the new car park at the White Horse Inn, Scales, and headed along the lane and up into Mousthwaite Combe. The combe is quite a sun-trap and with no breeze it soon became very warm. Hitting the colder air at the col was something of a relief! It was also great to see the route ahead leading to Scales Tarn and Sharp Edge.
- Sharp Edge from Mousthwaite Col
- zoomed
The snow on the level path above the Glenderamackin Beck was well compacted by the passage of many pairs of boots and, as a consequence, was rather icy. I could have done with my Microspikes, which I'd forgotten!
Never mind.
- Approaching Scales Tarn, Brunt Knott ahead
At the edge of Scales Tarn was a group of tents, still audibly occupied (some low voices and, yes, snoring!
- it was well past 9.30am). Maybe they didn't get a good night's sleep? Anyway, I wasn't hanging around and headed off up the trail of footprints to the top of Brunt Knott.
- Wild camp at Scales Tarn
- Sharp Edge above Scales Tarn
- Bowscale Fell from top of Brunt Knott
At the start of Sharp Edge I had a decision to make. The rock on the sunny south side was largely clear of snow and ice, while on the shaded north side it was covered in the stuff. To put on crampons or not to put on crampons, that was the question. Was it nobler in the mind to not wear them and try to avoid the ice and snow, or to wear them and try to keep to the ice and snow as much as possible? Not wishing to waste too much time deliberating on this profound dilemma, I plumped for the latter.
- Starting Sharp Edge
- Sharp Edge
Now winter conditions on Sharp Edge vary greatly. Trickiest (and most dangerous) is deep powder, which just slithers off the rock when you grope about through it in search of holds and ledges - a very time-consuming process. I usually try to avoid it in such conditions. But when the snow is firm and crisp, crampons bite in securely and the edge can seem a breeze. Such was the case today. It was probably easier keeping to the snow in crampons than it would have been trying to avoid it without.
- Looking down from the crest
- Scales Tarn
- Bannerdale Crags
Even the slab directly above the end of the edge, which can form the crux of the route, was conveniently supplied with snow-steps. It almost felt like cheating! (Not that I was complaining
)
- The slabs up Foule Crag
- Scales Tarn again
- Skiddaw from Atkinson Pike
- Great Calva and Knott from Atkinson Pike
On reaching the top of Atkinson Pike (the northern end of the saddle), I could see some cloud to the west and mist was scudding across the saddle on a brisk breeze. I wondered if the weather was about to turn.
- Across the saddle to Halls Fell Top
- Savouring the view from summit of Blencathra
On the summit the tremendous views to the south were only enhanced by the flying wraiths of mist. What threatening cloud there had been seemed now to have disappeared. It was very pleasant indeed sitting in a sheltered spot just below the summit for coffee and a bite. The sun was quite warm.
- View south-west
- Looking down Halls Fell
Going down Halls Fell I made the opposite decision from the one I made going up Sharp Edge. I elected to do without crampons as there was too little snow to justify them. Care was needed as the rock was icy in places, but the ridge made for an enjoyable way down.
- St. John's in the Vale
- zoom to the Scafells etc.
- Coming down Halls Fell
- Looking up the ridge
- East to Eden
When I got back to the White Horse I looked at my watch and was surprised to see it was only 1.45pm.
It seemed a shame in a way. There was only one thing for it - to sample the wares of the new café in Threlkeld! And very smart it is too, replete with outside balcony and views across to Clough Head...