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A long-awaited trip to Highlands, based at Kinlochleven, hoping for some decent winter conditions (i.e. plenty of snow and ice). No such luck.
Mild temperatures with extensive rain forecast for west coast on the Sunday, but looking better further south and inland, so we (Karl & me) decided to head for Killin for the Tarmachan Ridge (Meall nan Tarmachan being a Munro I hadn't done).
Weather looked quite promising when we arrived at Killin - the ridge was partially cloud-free - but this wasn't to last. Drove up Lawers road to car park and as we got booted and suited a friendly woman from the car next to us asked if we thought she should take ice axe and crampons for Meall Corranaich. What little snow was visible was restricted to streaks and patches and it wasn't freezing, so we though it unlikely that ice axe and crampons would be needed. But we said we'd be taking them anyway for the Tarmachan ridge just in case! The golden rule being that it's better to have them and not need them than to need them and not have them.
A wooden sign post points the way, so off we went along the well constructed path heading for Meall nan Tarmachan.
- Path from car park heading for Meall nan Tarmachan
- Ridge becomes better defined towards south-east top.
- Head of Loch Tay
- Beinn Ghlas and Loch Tay
- Meall nan Tarmachan from SE top
- Looking back to SE top
- Looking across to Meall Corranaich
The south-east top of Meall nan Tarmachan was still below the clag when we reached it, so that was nice. But then it didn't look like we'd be getting any views from the Munro itself. It's a steep pull up from the col to a rising traverse along a rake which leads around to the right. The path hits the north ridge just below the summit.
- Summit of Meall nan Tarmachan
The Tarmachan Ridge continues south then south-west. From a summit in poor visibility it's all too easy to head off in the wrong direction, so we took a compass bearing just to make sure. Good job we did as it pointed us in the opposite direction from the way we thought we would be heading!
Yes, always trust the compass (except in the Cuillin!).
- Heading out along the ridge
The path was clear to follow and no further compass readings were needed.
- Frozen lochan
It wasn't long before Meall Garbh loomed impressively and unmistakably out of the mist. We were glad we hadn't gone straight back down from the Munro.
- Meall Garbh
- Summit of Meall Garbh
The crest of Meall Garbh is delightfully narrow and airy.
- Continuing along the crest of Meall Garbh
Descending from the end of the ridge the ground drops steeply to the narrow col between Meall Garbh and Beinn nan Eachan. There's an awkward, rocky step to negotiate which isn't too clever in the wet, as all the ledges slope outwards over a drop you wouldn't want to slip down. It was all rather muddy and slippery, so we took the easier by-pass path which goes off to the right (facing down-slope) and re-joins the main path just below the step. It seemed a bit of a cop-out, but at least we continued on our way unscathed!
- Looking down to the col below Meall Garbh from just above the rocky step.
At the col we found a sheltered spot and sat down for a half-hour lunch break. Not much in the way of views but atmospheric surroundings.
- Summit of Beinn nan Eachan
At the col on the far side of Beinn nan Eachan a cairn marks the start of the descent into Coire Fionn Lairige. The path is distinct at first but soon disappears among the bogs, reappearing only vaguely and intermittently. We ended up ignoring any signs of paths and just headed straight for the top of the miner's track.
- Waterfall and snow patch in Coire Fionn Lairige
- Creag na Caillich
- Killin and head of Loch Tay
The miner's track eventually joins a lower track leading back to the car park.
- On the miner's track
- Meall Corranaich and Beinn Ghlas
This had been a really enjoyable walk despite the clag. Not exactly winter conditions but at least we'd had a good day out on the hills. And as we drove back over Rannoch Moor we were back into the drifting bands of rain that had drenched the west coast mountains. So the drive inland had been worth it!