Allison managed to get away from work at lunchtime, having claimed some hours due, so we were able to head up the A82 and arrive in Ullapool at a reasonable time - ie when it was still light. It was snowing however, with a coating of wet snow on the road as we drove by Ardmair. I reckoned we should just camp at the Stac Pollaidh car park - we found a sloping spot and pitched up for the night. Some nice views to Cul Mor and to Beinn an Eoin before bedtime.
DSC02895 by Al, on FlickrBeinn Mor Coigach
DSC02898 by Al, on FlickrFriday - Stac Pollaidh
We'd arranged to meet Paul around 10am at the car park - he arrived about 9.30 and we did some preliminaries then set off. The clag was down over the ridge as we set out - I hoped the day would improve but it didn't til we got off the hill. Route was up the west side of the mountain then follow the faint path to the col, where there's a narrow sandy junction with the troublesome rock face. By the time we arrived it had started to snow/hail and the wind was gettign up. The clag hadn't lifted. Great
We ditched our sacks and got into harnesses - it did feel a trifle embarrasing to be requiring a rope for what is basically 3 or 4 moves - but the difficulty really presents itself on the return from the summit, and I am very glad that I'd opted for the safer option - particularly with slippy wet surfaces like we had today. Anyhow, Allison set off first, having been shown the moves by Paul, and made it up no bother. I was a bit anxious, although without real reason, and set off after her, clambering to the top of the rock face. Off with the rope, skip along to the summit cairn and then back down again. I don't think my descent was particularly elegant, but I could imagine only too well how it might feel without the security of a rope. 
P1150060 by Al, on FlickrHeading up
P1150061 by Al, on FlickrApproaching the hard bit
P1150063 by Al, on Flickr
P1150064 by Al, on FlickrAllison sets off
P1150066 by Al, on FlickrEasy, really
P1150068 by Al, on FlickrMy turn whilst Allison goes to the top
P1150069 by Al, on Flickr
P1150070 by Al, on Flickr
stac2 by Al, on FlickrOnce we'd both returned to the col I suggested we have some lunch then decide what to do. We'd enjoyed a scramble along the ridge previously in great weather, which today wasn't. Anyway, we had a joyous amble along the ridge using the rope at one slippy part then descending to the eastern approach path and back to the car. A short day, but an important stage in our progress towards the Grahams. Paul was great company and I'd recommend him to anyone for climbs in the northwest.
P1150073 by Al, on Flickr
P1150074 by Al, on FlickrWe drove to Ullapool to do a little shopping before setting off for Badrallach campsite where we'd spend the next three days. We'd stayed here at midsummer 2014 when we'd completed our Munros on An Teallach and had fond memories of the site. It's changed hands in the meantime but is still a quirky and lovely site. We were the only tnet there - about 10 minutes after we arrived a campervan doing the NC500 joined us but that was it. The views over to An Teallach and Sail Mhor are special.
Sail Mhor from Badralloch
DSC02904 by Al, on FlickrAn Teallach
DSC02905 by Al, on FlickrBothy behind
DSC02903 by Al, on FlickrSaturday - Beinn a'Chaisgen Beag
For Saturday's outing we'd chosen Beinn a'Chaisgen Beag, a remote western outlier of the Fisherfields. We'd climbed its big brother, Beinn a'Chaisgen Mor whilst doing a Fisherfields circuit. The approach for this single hill would be from the west- from Gruinard Bay, an area new to me. I knew there was a track in (in fact there are 3 possible track options from the west) but not the type of terrain. I'd looked at combining the hill with a circuit of Simms around Loch Toll a'Mhadaidh but reckoned that - at 27km just there and back - the single hill would have to do. I do like efficiency of hill bagging, however there are some areas it is really no hardship to return to time and again, and if the Fisherfields and friends are not a worthy place to revisit then nowhere is.
An Teallach / Loch Broom
DSC02907 by Al, on FlickrWe drove the small distance from the campsite to the start of the track at Inchina, where there's verge parking. An Teallach looked sumptuous in a coat of new snow. I'd stopped to take some snaps on the Badrallach road, just beside a sheep field and the whole flock (including one goat) had run towards me expectantly - I felt sorry they were not getting a morning feed from me and watched their despondent, hungry eyes as I drove off. From the start of the track there were some rather special views - An Teallach from behind, as it were, and the fantastic Beinn Dearg Bheag and Mor - probably my favourite Corbetts, with the northern half of Beinn a'Chlaidheimh just visible beyond. The Gruinard River was flowing swift and deep - glad we didn't have to cross that. A phalanx of geese flew overhead, honking. The track provides a good surface for walking with options for camping along side should you wish. There's a section enclosed by deer fence. As we continued, the sky became more overcast, but still providing impressive views of the mountains beyond.
Hopeful Sheep
DSC02908 by Al, on FlickrFeed us!
DSC02909 by Al, on FlickrBeinn Ghobhlaich, BMC in the backdrop
DSC02911 by Al, on FlickrBeinn Mor Coigach
DSC02912 by Al, on FlickrOn the track, Beinn Deargs ahead
DSC02915 by Al, on Flickr
DSC02916 by Al, on FlickrAn Teallach
DSC02921 by Al, on FlickrDeargs, Chlaimhaidh beyond
DSC02922 by Al, on FlickrBeinn Dearg Bheag
DSC02924 by Al, on FlickrAn Teallach
DSC02926 by Al, on FlickrWe reached the small concrete bridge over the Allt Loch Ghiubhsachain and - without crossing it took a right up the adjacent hillside. The SMC book suggests following the Allt up for a km or so - but this would mean crossing the river and didn't seem to confer any particular advantage over our route. We climbed heathery slopes, boggy in places to reach Creag Mheall meadhonach where we stopped for food. Our next objective was to reach the stalkers path which skirts north round Creag na Sgoinne - this was a faint but serviceable path with the Toll a'Mhadaidh burn to cross - Allison complained that there was one stepping stone too few - write a letter to the estate, I suggested. There's a curious, solitary wooden chalet - presumably for stalking- lower down the slopes of Frith Mheallan.
Off the track
DSC02927 by Al, on FlickrBeinn a'Chaisgen Beag on right
DSC02928 by Al, on FlickrThe top of our hill was unfortunately in clag. we reached the bealach with Frith Mheallan and had a clag bound 180 metres to the summit of Beag, with snow underfoot. We discovered one of the stone "circle" sculptures we've found on a few hills, mostly in Torridon. Allison decided it was a portal to another dimension. I decided she needed a snack
We made the trig and (higher, slightly) cairn then about turned and followed our tracks back. Loch Toll a'Mhadaidh looked beguiling and most definately worthy of a visit, with its solitary tree and general air of mystery. A place for a future wild camp, I think. Typically as we retreated from our hill the clag lifted. Ah well... The walk out was very pleasant, with great views of the western spurs of An Teallach and the large hump of Sail Mhor. A splendid day's outing, capped off by some more breathtaking views on the road home. Virtually all of the overnight snow had melted away - our target for the morrow, Beinn Ghobhlach, bare as a baby's bottom now. Weather was pleasant enough to allow us to sit outside for our meal drinking in the scenery.
DSC02930 by Al, on Flickr
DSC02931 by Al, on FlickrLoch a'Toll Mhadaidh
DSC02935 by Al, on FlickrClag lifts - after descent
DSC02939 by Al, on FlickrBa'CB and Beinn na Sgoinne
DSC02940 by Al, on Flickran Teallach
DSC02942 by Al, on Flickr
DSC02946 by Al, on Flickr
DSC02947 by Al, on FlickrA good day out
DSC02950 by Al, on Flickr
DSC02951 by Al, on Flickr
DSC02952 by Al, on FlickrLess snow now on An Teallach
DSC02956 by Al, on Flickr
DSC02957 by Al, on FlickrLoch Broom vista
DSC02959 by Al, on FlickrSunday - Beinn Ghobhlaich
Sunday saw a return of high winds and had a generally unsettled feel. We had a short day - just along the road from the campsite lies Beinn Ghobhlach. We'd agreed to add the Marilyn of Cnoc a'Bhaid rallaich which would allow a return straight down the hillside back to the campsite. Wandered along the road west from the site, passing the old phone box (a real Local Hero feel about this), past a wooden eco house with turf roof I envied and onto the track to Sgoraig. There had been a large wildfire along the southern slopes of Beinn Ghobhlaich back in mid February, stretching at least 2 miles along the coastline - the heather had been burnt back and the ground charred - but the first shoots of new growth were just starting to return. It made walking easier, I will add. We progressed up the blackened slopes of Ghobhlaich for around 300m til we saw the two beautiful lochans at the foot of Ghobhlaich. Passing over the isthmus there's a large balanced boulder that makes a good rocking chair.
Setting out
P1150078 by Al, on Flickr
P1150079 by Al, on FlickrCharred earth
P1150080 by Al, on FlickrGhobhlaich ahead
P1150083 by Al, on Flickr
P1150087 by Al, on FlickrInfinity loch
P1150085 by Al, on FlickrIsthmus
P1150089 by Al, on FlickrRocking stone
P1150090 by Al, on FlickrOnwards up the steep slopes of Ghobhlaich, the wind becoming ever stronger as we near the summit. Skies across Loch Broom becoming wilder with surges of brilliance, white horses on the loch surface. Past some wind blasted sandstone shapes up to the summit cairn, nearly blown away. The wind-shelter really wasn't offering much protection as we rapidly headed down the north-east slope towards Cnoc Bhaid-rallaich. Scampering down to the bealach we followed a natural cleft in the hill upwards to the eastern top of the Cnoc. Plenty of opportunity for little scrambles up the wind sculpted stone blocks. The views we'd hoped for from Ghobhlaich's top but were denied by clag - namely Beinn Mor Coigach were visible from here -a great slab of mountain ridge. Across to the south, An teallach and Sail Mhor didn't look too bad either. We descended steeply over grassy slopes, following the burn that comes out right at the campsite. Another fine, if windy day.
View across Loch Broom
P1150093 by Al, on Flickr
P1150094 by Al, on FlickrWindy Ghobhlaich summit
P1150097 by Al, on FlickrCnoc a'Bhaid Rallaich
P1150098 by Al, on FlickrBeinn Mor Coigach
P1150102 by Al, on Flickr
P1150103 by Al, on Flickr
P1150109 by Al, on Flickr
P1150110 by Al, on Flickr
P1150114 by Al, on FlickrApe Head
P1150116 by Al, on Flickr
P1150117 by Al, on FlickrCampsite
P1150123 by Al, on Flickr
P1150124 by Al, on FlickrWe ventured into the bothy at the campsite - this is available at the princely sum of £8 pppn and has log burner plus kitchen with running water and fridge. It also has a fine selection of (sadly empty) whisky cartons round the walls. We thought we might "upgrade" from the tent given the forecast was for rain and more winds overnight. It also meant we could get the tent packed away dry for our final night. We'd just dissembled the tent and moved our gear into the bothy when a car arrives at the gate. However, the couple inside were staying at the stone cottage next door 9also run by the campsite) so we didn't have company after all. A more ambitious curry was cooked than could easily be managed in the tent and we enjoyed a wee nip by the glow of the log burner. True enough, hailstones rattled off the roof for much of the night, so it was a good call to move.
in the bothy
DSC02963 by Al, on Flickr
DSC02965 by Al, on Flickr
DSC02968 by Al, on FlickrRelaxing by the fire
DSC02971 by Al, on FlickrMonday - Carn Loch nan Amhaichean & Beinn nan Eun
Up early on Monday for another long walk -this time to Carn Loch nan Amhaichean and Beinn nan Eun to the west of Wyvis. I had looked at options for the route - the nicest I'd come up with was a circuit clockwise but this involved twice crossing the Abhainn Beinn nan Eun - given recent snowmelt and wetness this was of some concern. Eventually we settled on the SMC out and back route which crossed the river higher up - probably wise. We parked at the start of the track to Strath Rannoch, across from the inchbae Hotel. It was a far more pleasant track than I'd expected, with lots of new native tree planting and the waters of the Abhainn Strath Rainich gushing alongside. We spotted the white tops of the Beinn Dearg Munros to the north, then the long back of Meall a'Grianain and Beinn a'Chaistell. We approached the farm buildings after 6km and could finally see our first hill, Carn Loch nan Amhaichean, up ahead. The route description took us onto a grassy path on the west side of the Allt a'Choire Rainich, which we had to cross after passing a gorge. Then onto easy heathery slopes up the whaleback of our hill, aiming for a huge boulder perched there. The top was wind blasted and the weather rapidly alternated between periods of sunshine and clag/hail showers. We needed to link arms to battle against the wind at the summit, again making a hasty exit northwards to reach the shore of Loch nan Amihaichean. We sought shelter in a peat hag for lunch before setting out over trackless bog/tussocks along the north side of the loch, then following the outflow down til it reached the Abhainn Beinn nan Eun. Fortunately this was easy to cross, although deep and fast flowing - we found a narrowing that allowed a single step over the water - no wet feet!.
Track
P1150126 by Al, on FlickrDeargs (L) and Beinn a'Chaistell (R)
P1150127 by Al, on Flickr
P1150129 by Al, on FlickrAmhaichean
P1150133 by Al, on Flickr
P1150134 by Al, on FlickrTo the Boulder!
P1150135 by Al, on FlickrStrath Vaith Hills
P1150137 by Al, on FlickrSummit Amhaichean, Carn Chuinneag in backdrop
P1150140 by Al, on FlickrLoch nan Amhaichean
P1150142 by Al, on FlickrCarn Loch nan Amhaichean - water devils over the loch
P1150148 by Al, on FlickrBeinn nan Eun
P1150150 by Al, on FlickrChuinneag
P1150151 by Al, on Flickr
P1150152 by Al, on FlickrOur route now involved ascending the northern slopes of Beinn nan Eun, again using a boulder for reference. There's a way to go after reaching Cul Beinn nan Eun and the wind was ever stronger - this hill being some 50m higher than the last one - glad I wasn't trying to go up a Munro today... Snow and ice on the approach to the summit, quite challenging in the wind to get to the cairn and remain there in any upright position. We retraced our steps down, found the same place to cross the burn and went back along Loch nan Aimhaichean, somewhat higher up to avoid the wetness. We aimed for a tiny lochan just north of Carn Loch nan Aimhaichean and from there down into Coire Rhainich where we picked up the furthest reaches of our outward stalkers path once again. A sense of relief as we walked down the track that we'd managed to get these two done - would have been a different matter under deep snow.
View back to Amhaichean
P1150154 by Al, on Flickr
P1150155 by Al, on FlickrIt's windy
P1150159 by Al, on Flickr
P1150160 by Al, on FlickrDescent into Coire Rhainnich
P1150161 by Al, on Flickr
P1150166 by Al, on FlickrBy the time we reached the car it had gone 5pm. We were both tired and had decided to head to the Riverview campsite in Contin, which appeared to be open when we'd passed by last weekend. However when we got there it was not open. Irritated - I'd have wild camped on the Strath Rannoch track otherwise - I decided just to head down the road, maybe hitting Comrie croft once again. It wasn't particularly good weather to drive, with more hail squalls coming in then darkness falling and it was after 9 by the time we got pitched at Comrie. Didn't take long to get to sleep that night. i was wakened in the small hours by Allison battering the roof of the tent. Snow - lots of it!
Tuesday - Sgiath a'Chaise
We wakened quite early to a white soggy world. Wet snow every where. Our plan for the day had been to visit Sgiath a'Chaise down by Loch Lubnaig. As we drove along Loch Earn we could see how much snow had fallen during the night - the hills were loaded - although the high winds left some areas blasted. We parked up at Ardchullarie More and took the track we'd used to get to Beinn Each previously. The start of the track is in bad nick, with a number of fallen trees across it - man with a chainsaw required please. Once on the track the snow was several inches deep and dazzling in the sunshine. We had a look up at the heavily laden slopes of our mountain and picked a suitable route upwards, aiming just south of Creag a'Mhadaidh. hard work ploughing through soft deep snow, over knee deep - haven't done much of that this winter. Once on the ridge the wind was fierce, spindrift necessitating the use of goggles. The snow underfoot was less deep, much of it having been blown next door to Beinn Each, although there were deep drifts in places - enough to swallow you up. We could see the outline of a path, following fenceposts to the summit of Sgiath a'Chaise. Some good views to the mountains west. We returned along the same route, following our tracks down the mountainside a lot quicker than we'd come up and back along the track to the car - the sky to the south an ominous black.
P1150169 by Al, on Flickr
P1150170 by Al, on Flickr
P1150171 by Al, on Flickrsgiath a'Chaise
P1150174 by Al, on FlickrUp to Creag a'Mhadaidh
P1150177 by Al, on FlickrBeinn Each behind
P1150178 by Al, on Flickr
P1150181 by Al, on FlickrSummit, looking to Beinn Each
P1150183 by Al, on Flickr
P1150184 by Al, on FlickrView west
P1150185 by Al, on Flickr
P1150187 by Al, on FlickrDescent
P1150190 by Al, on Flickr
P1150191 by Al, on FlickrBlack sky to the south
P1150192 by Al, on Flickr
P1150194 by Al, on Flickr
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